Western Honshū

To most people, Hiroshima (広島) means just one thing. The city's name will forever evoke images of 6 August 1945, when Hiroshima became the target of the world's first atomic-bomb attack. Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park is a constant reminder of that day, and it attracts visitors from all over the world with its moving message of peace. And the leafy city, with its wide boulevards and laid-back friendliness, is far from a depressing place. Present-day Hiroshima is home to an ever-thriving cosmopolitan community, and it's worth spending a couple of nights here to experience the city at its vibrant best.

As the location of the Benesse Art Site, the island of Naoshima (直島) has become one of the region's biggest tourist attractions, offering a unique opportunity to see some of Japan's best contemporary art in gorgeous natural settings. Museums and numerous outdoor sculptures are situated around the coast, including Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama, which has become a symbol of Naoshima.

The Benesse project started in the early '90s, when the Benesse Corporation chose Naoshima as the setting for its growing collection of modern art. Once home to a dwindling population subsisting on the proceeds of a small fishing industry, Naoshima now has a number of world-class art galleries and installations, and has attracted creative types from all over Japan to set up businesses here. The art movement has not stopped at Naoshima's shores, either, with museums and art sites popping up on other islands in the Inland Sea.

The Setouchi Shimanami Kaidō (瀬戸内しまなみ海道; Shimanami Sea Route) is a chain of bridges linking Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku, via six Inland Sea islands. Besides being remarkable feats of engineering (the monster Kurushima-kaikyō trio at the Imabari end are among the longest suspension bridges in the world), the bridges make it possible to cycle the whole way across. Breezing along 50m or more above the island-dotted sea is an amazing experience, and a highlight of any trip to this part of Japan. Needless to say, it's best enjoyed when the weather is fine.

Within walking distance of town, this thriving shrine, built in 1773 by the seventh lord Kamei Norisada, is one of the five major Inari shrines in Japan. Walk up the hillside to it through a tunnel created by hundreds of torii, which are lit up at night, creating a beautiful sight from the town. At the top is a grand shrine complex, and fabulous views of the valley and mountains.

This picturesque trail takes in 25 old temples in the hills behind the town, following narrow lanes and steep stone stairways, where cats laze in the sunshine. Along the route is a ropeway to an observation tower and a park area (Senkō-ji-kōen), home to Onomichi's best-known temple, Senkō-ji. There are cute cafes, gift shops and galleries dotted between the temples.

Izumo Taisha, also known as Izumo Ōyashiro, is perhaps the oldest Shintō shrine in Japan. This shrine, dedicated to Ōkuninushi, god of marriage and bringer of good fortune, is as old as Japanese recorded history – there are references to Izumo in the Kojiki, Japan's oldest book – and its origins stretch back into the age of the gods. It's second in importance only to Ise-jingū (in Kansai), the home of the sun goddess Amaterasu, and makes a charming day trip from Matsue.

With its fine castle and crowd-pleasing sunsets over Shinji-ko (Lake Shinji), Matsue (松江) is an appealing city with some interesting historical attractions. The city straddles the Ōhashi-gawa, which connects Shinji-ko with Nakaumi, a saline lake. Most of the main attractions are in a compact area in the north, where you'll find the castle – a rare original. Matsue is also a good base for sojourns to other places of interest in Shimane Prefecture and you could easily spend a few lazy days here.

North of Matsue in the Sea of Japan are the remote and spectacular Oki Islands (隠岐諸島; Oki-shotō), once used to exile officials (including two emperors) who came out on the losing side of political squabbles. Being cut off from the mainland, there are cultural and religious practices preserved here that aren't observed elsewhere in Japan, the pace of life is decidedly slower, and there's a refreshing lack of development at the tourist spots. Four of the islands are inhabited: the three Dōzen Islands – Nishino-shima, Chiburi-jima and Nakano-shima – and the larger Dōgo island. Allow at least a couple of days to visit and keep in mind that ferry services are subject to change and halt in bad weather.

The islands are within the Oki Islands Geopark, with coastal areas that are part of the Daisen-Oki National Park (大山隠岐国立公園).

The former Iwami Ginzan (石見銀山) silver mine is a Unesco World Heritage Site dotted with shrines, mine shafts and an overgrown refinery that resembles a pyramid. In the early 17th century, the mine produced as much as 38 tonnes of silver annually, making it the most important mine in the country at a time when Japan was producing around a third of the world's silver every year. The Tokugawa shogunate had direct control over the 500 or so mines in the area. Iwami Ginzan is southwest of Izumo, about 6km inland from Nima Station on the San-in coast.