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The array of cultural attractions in Kanazawa (金沢) make the city the drawcard of the Hokuriku region and a rival to Kyoto as the historical jewel of mainland Japan. Best known for Kenroku-en, a castle garden dating from the 17th century, it also boasts beautifully preserved samurai and geisha districts, attractive temples, a wealth of museums and a wonderful market (and far fewer tourists than Kyoto – for now). A two- or three-day stay is recommended to take it all in.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Kanazawa.
Gardens
This Edo-period garden draws its name ( kenroku means 'combined six') from a renowned Sung-dynasty garden in China that dictated six attributes for perfection: seclusion, spaciousness, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views. Kenroku-en has them all. Arrive before the crowds.
Market
Between Kanazawa Station and Katamachi you'll find this market, reminiscent of Tokyo's old Tsukiji market. A bustling warren of fishmongers, buyers and restaurants, it's a great place to watch everyday people in action or indulge in the freshest sashimi and local produce. The nearest bus stop is Musashi-ga-tsuji.
Museum
A low-slung glass cylinder, 113m in diameter, forms the perimeter of this contemporary gallery, which celebrated its 10th birthday in 2014. Museum entry is free, but admission fees are charged for special exhibitions. Inside, galleries are arranged like boxes on a tray. Check the website for event info and fees.
Gardens
Adjacent to the Kanazawa Castle Park, this feudal pleasure garden was first constructed in 1634 but abandoned in the Meiji era. Its five-year reconstruction was completed in 2015. Features include a small waterfall, bridges and many traditional elements. While the garden's focal point is the Gyokusen-an Rest House, it's the overall picture of beauty and refinement that impresses most. The garden and teahouse are illuminated spectacularly on Friday and Saturday evenings between sunset and 9pm – have your camera at the ready.
Museum
In Higashi-chaya-gai, Kaikarō is an early-19th-century geisha house refinished with contemporary fittings and art, including a red-lacquered staircase. Evening geisha performances include a short lecture in English by the proprietor, followed by a demonstration of traditional party games by geisha themselves. Performances last 1½ hours; tickets start at ¥6500.
Buddhist Temple
Completed in 1643 in Teramachi, the temple was designed to protect its lord from attack. It contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. Contrary to popular belief, it has nothing to do with ninja. Admission is by tour only (in Japanese with an English guidebook). Phone for reservations with English-speaking staff.
Museum
This spiritual museum is a tribute to Daisetsu Teitaro Suzuki, one of the foremost Buddhist philosophers of our time. Published in Japanese and English, Suzuki is largely credited with introducing Zen to the West. This stunning concrete complex embodies the heart of Zen.
Landmark
Originally built in 1580, this massive structure was called the 'castle of 1000 tatami' and housed the Maeda clan for 14 generations until it was destroyed by fire in 1881. The elegant surviving gate, Ishikawa-mon (built in 1788), provides a dramatic entry from Kenroku-en; holes in its turret were designed for hurling rocks at invaders. Two additional buildings, the Hishi-yagura (diamond-shaped turret) and Gojikken-nagaya (armoury), were reconstructed using traditional means in 2001.
Historic Building
In Yuwaku Onsen, about 14km southeast of Kanazawa along Rte 10, you'll find this attractive collection of reconstructed Edo-period buildings arranged as an open-air museum showcasing artefacts from the era (1603–1868). Self-drive, or take the bus (¥600, 45 minutes) – get off at Yuwaku Onsen stop and walk for about 300m, following the signs.