On the island's southern coast, down a sinuous, narrow paved road, Gelso is a minuscule but picturesque port with a pair of family-run restaurants and a couple of black-sand beaches that rarely get very crowded. In summer there's a bus service to get there, but you'll be much better off hiring a car or scooter, as services are limited and it's a 15km walk back if you get stranded.
West of the port a trail runs a few hundred metres to the 18th-century church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and an abandoned lighthouse. Just uphill (north) from the port, a steep dirt track (pedestrians only) branches off to Spiaggia dell'Asino, a crescent of black sand giving onto inviting waters. A second beach, Spiaggia Cannitello, is surrounded by lush, almost tropical greenery. Both beaches have rudimentary bar-cafes in summer, where you can hire sun loungers and umbrellas.