You'll stumble across two deities in this dusty little square. First is ancient-Egyptian river god Nilo: the marble Statua del Nilo was erected by Alexandrian merchants who lived in the area during Roman times. The sculpture mysteriously disappeared when the Egyptian expats moved out, turning up headless in the 15th century. Its recently restored bearded bonce was added in the 18th century.

Opposite the statue, Bar Nilo is home to a tongue-in-cheek shrine to Argentine footballer and ex-Napoli deity Diego Maradona.

Stuck to an epic poem written in Maradona's honour is a small, wiry, black hair – 'Kapel Original of Maradona' reads the English label, a direct translation of the Italian Capello originale di Maradona. The small container is full of genuine Maradona tears…and shame on anyone who suggests it's only water. Note: you'll be expected to buy a coffee or drink in the bar.