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South Sulawesi

South Sulawesi is huge. The sprawling capital and bustling port city of Makassar in the far south is tumultuous yet friendly, and likely where your journey will start or end. While you're there, feast on some of the best seafood on the island and explore the stunning karst landscapes just outside of town. If you have a little longer, the southeast corner of the peninsula is home to sleepy Pantai Bira with its world-class diving and fine sandy beaches.

South Sulawesi's drawcard site, however, is Tana Toraja – a spectacular highlands that should not be missed. There, you'll find a dizzying blend of mountains carved with rice paddies, outlandish funeral ceremonies, and some of the most fantastical traditional architecture in Asia. You could easily spend weeks trekking through the verdant hills, visiting hidden villages, and discovering forgotten waterfalls.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout South Sulawesi.

  • See

    Ke'te Kesu'

    The four stately tongkonan and many granaries that make up Ke'te Kesu' were moved to this picturesque site in 1927 when the savvy family head noticed the Dutch government largely ignored anyone too far from their administrative centres. Later, to share their heritage with the world while demonstrating the value of preserving traditions, Kesu'ers got their village designated as the first official obyek wisata (tourism site) in Toraja, and lobbied hard (with some success) for Unesco World Heritage attention. On the cliff face behind the village there are cave graves and very old hanging graves – some reportedly 500 years old or more. Deteriorating coffins are suspended on wooden beams under an overhang, while others have fallen into jumbles below full of bones and skulls. Shops near the car park sell intricate wood carvings – one way the locals hope to share Toraja with outsiders. The village is 4km southeast of Rantepao and gets busy with tour groups in high season.

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    Tampang Allo

    Whether it's the tau tau, the cave itself, or the peaceful rice paddy setting squeezed between a maze of cliffs, this is one our favourite sites in Tana Toraja. The graves reportedly belong to the chiefs of Sangalla, descendants of the mythical divine being Tamborolangiq who introduced the caste system and death rituals into Torajan society. Their skulls all look the same as any commoner's, however. Take a Kijang from Makale to Sangalla; get off at Suaya, and walk the concrete path to Tampang Allo.

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    Londa

    Live out your Indiana Jones fantasies at this extensive (and very popular) burial cave below a massive cliff face. Its entrance is guarded by a balcony of tau tau, while inside piles of coffins – many of them rotted away – and bones lie haphazardly on almost every ledge. Members of the upper class are placed in hanging caskets on the cliff face, some at dizzying heights, while commoners are placed in the caves, often without caskets at all. A local myth says that the people buried here are the descendants of Tangdilinoq, chief of the Toraja; English-speaking guides with lanterns (50,000Rp) are eager to tell you all about it and more as you explore the depths of the caves. If you’re thin, and don’t suffer from claustrophobia, squeeze through the tunnel that connects the two main caves, passing some interesting stalactites and stalagmites. Rantepao–Makale bemo will drop you off at the turn-off 5km south of Rantepao. From there it's a 2km walk (or ojek) from the cave.

  • See

    Lemo

    A veritable village of tau tau stare down with unblinking eyes and outstretched arms from this impressive burial cliff riddled with tombs. The sheer rock face has a whole series of balconies for statues of the deceased who feel as much a part of the community as their living relatives. The site is located at the head of a terraced valley making the whole scene hauntingly beautiful, especially in the early morning. According to local legend, these graves are for descendants of a Toraja chief who built his house on top of the cliff into which the graves are now cut. The tombs cost around 40,000,000Rp to hollow out of the rock, and can take several months of labor. Nearby, expert craftsmen carve new tau tau for funerals throughout the region. They also have a few for sale (in convenient carry-on sizes) if you wish to take one home. A Rantepao–Makale bemo can drop you at the turn-off to the burial site, from where it’s just less than a 1km walk to the village.

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    Fort Rotterdam

    One of the best-preserved examples of Dutch military architecture in Indonesia, Fort Rotterdam was built on the site of a Gowanese fort, itself built to repel the Dutch East India Company. Having failed to keep out the orang belanda (Dutch people), it was reconstructed by the new masters of Makassar after their 1667 conquest, and includes many fine, well-restored colonial structures. You can walk the enclave's stout ramparts, see sections of the original walls and, inside, visit the Museum Negeri La Galigo. While foreign visitors tend to marvel at the architecture, local tourists remember the fort as the final residence of national hero Prince Diponegoro who led the rebellion in Java against Dutch occupation. He was imprisoned here for 25 years until his death in 1855. Local guides at the entrance charge 100,000Rp.

  • See

    Pasar Bolu

    Heralded as the world's largest water buffalo market, this dusty, chaotic scene pops off every Tuesday and Saturday when stately beasts imported from around the world are put on display. Some of these animals cost more than a small car. Most are destined for slaughter at funeral ceremonies. There's also a swift trade in pigs and roosters, and the more traditional market nearby is a social feast for the senses. Mornings are the best time to visit. Pasar Bolu is 2½km northeast of town and easily accessible by bemo.

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    Asmaul Husnah 99 Kubah

    On the reclaimed waterfront opposite Pantai Losari, this stunning bright-orange-and-white, 99-domed mosque was almost complete at the time of research and is destined to become a major Makassar attraction. Reach it by passing the dramatic 'Centre Point of Indonesia' globe sculpture and a new cable bridge shaped like a tongkonan (traditional Torajan house).

  • See

    Bori' Kalimbuang

    There are lots of places to see standing stones, but this is one of the nicer ones. With 102 stones – each representing a different funeral conducted at the site – this pleasantly arranged and well manicured collection of particularly large menhirs is attractive and peaceful. Nearby tombs as well as a tree bearing baby graves add to the sacred ambience.

  • See

    Pana'

    Whether its claim to be the oldest known baby grave in Toraja is accurate or not, this site is definitely one of the more compelling. The minimal development and quiet setting gives it a palpably sacred feel.

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