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South Sulawesi

South Sulawesi is huge. The sprawling capital and bustling port city of Makassar in the far south is tumultuous yet friendly, and likely where your journey will start or end. While you're there, feast on some of the best seafood on the island and explore the stunning karst landscapes just outside of town. If you have a little longer, the southeast corner of the peninsula is home to sleepy Pantai Bira with its world-class diving and fine sandy beaches.

South Sulawesi's drawcard site, however, is Tana Toraja – a spectacular highlands that should not be missed. There, you'll find a dizzying blend of mountains carved with rice paddies, outlandish funeral ceremonies, and some of the most fantastical traditional architecture in Asia. You could easily spend weeks trekking through the verdant hills, visiting hidden villages, and discovering forgotten waterfalls.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout South Sulawesi.

  • Village

    Ke'te Kesu'

    The four stately tongkonan and many granaries that make up Ke'te Kesu' were moved to this picturesque site in 1927 when the savvy family head noticed the Dutch government largely ignored anyone too far from their administrative centres. Later, to share their heritage with the world while demonstrating the value of preserving traditions, Kesu'ers got their village designated as the first official obyek wisata (tourism site) in Toraja, and lobbied hard (with some success) for Unesco World Heritage attention.

  • Tomb

    Tampang Allo

    Whether it's the tau tau, the cave itself, or the peaceful rice paddy setting squeezed between a maze of cliffs, this is one our favourite sites in Tana Toraja. The graves reportedly belong to the chiefs of Sangalla, descendants of the mythical divine being Tamborolangiq who introduced the caste system and death rituals into Torajan society. Their skulls all look the same as any commoner's, however.

  • Tomb

    Londa

    Live out your Indiana Jones fantasies at this extensive (and very popular) burial cave below a massive cliff face. Its entrance is guarded by a balcony of tau tau, while inside piles of coffins – many of them rotted away – and bones lie haphazardly on almost every ledge. Members of the upper class are placed in hanging caskets on the cliff face, some at dizzying heights, while commoners are placed in the caves, often without caskets at all.

  • Tomb

    Lemo

    A veritable village of tau tau stare down with unblinking eyes and outstretched arms from this impressive burial cliff riddled with tombs. The sheer rock face has a whole series of balconies for statues of the deceased who feel as much a part of the community as their living relatives. The site is located at the head of a terraced valley making the whole scene hauntingly beautiful, especially in the early morning.

  • Fort

    Fort Rotterdam

    One of the best-preserved examples of Dutch military architecture in Indonesia, Fort Rotterdam was built on the site of a Gowanese fort, itself built to repel the Dutch East India Company. Having failed to keep out the orang belanda (Dutch people), it was reconstructed by the new masters of Makassar after their 1667 conquest, and includes many fine, well-restored colonial structures. You can walk the enclave's stout ramparts, see sections of the original walls and, inside, visit the Museum Negeri La Galigo.

  • Cave

    Gua Leang Leang

    The Gua Leang Leang caves are noted for their ancient paintings and handprints. Recent studies of nearby caves have placed the art at over 35,000 years old, making them the oldest pictographs in the world. There are 60 or so known caves in the Maros district; the limestone karst here has more holes than a Swiss cheese. Catch a pete-pete from Maros to the Taman Purbakala Leang-Leang turn-off on the road to Bantimurung, and walk the last couple of kilometres.

  • Market

    Pasar Bolu

    Heralded as the world's largest water buffalo market, this dusty, chaotic scene pops off every Tuesday and Saturday when stately beasts imported from around the world are put on display. Some of these animals cost more than a small car. Most are destined for slaughter at funeral ceremonies. There's also a swift trade in pigs and roosters, and the more traditional market nearby is a social feast for the senses. Mornings are the best time to visit.

  • Beach

    Pantai Bara

    Around 3km northwest of Bira village, this quieter crescent of white sand is fringed by low cliffs and palms. You can stroll here in 30 minutes from Bira along the coast with the sand between your toes (low tide only) and marvel at the turquoise water and tropical vegetation. At high tide, use the newly paved-but-crumbling road behind the beach, which cuts through woodland that's home to monkeys and large monitor lizards.

  • Mosque

    Asmaul Husnah 99 Kubah

    On the reclaimed waterfront opposite Pantai Losari, this stunning bright-orange-and-white, 99-domed mosque was almost complete at the time of research and is destined to become a major Makassar attraction. Reach it by passing the dramatic 'Centre Point of Indonesia' globe sculpture and a new cable bridge shaped like a tongkonan (traditional Torajan house).

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