If you turn left at Dashrath Bhavan, when coming from Hanumanghari, you soon reach the highly contentious temple that marks the birthplace of Rama. Security here is staggering (think crossing from West Bank into Israel!). You must first show your passport, then leave all belongings apart from your passport and money (even your belt!) in nearby lockers.

You are then searched several times before being accompanied through a caged corridor that leads to a spot 20m away from a makeshift tent of a shrine, which marks Rama’s birthplace.