If you look north up XIII Váci út from Nyugati tér you’ll see the twin spires of this 1933 copy of a celebrated 13th-century Romanesque church (now in ruins) at Zsámbék, 33km west of Budapest. Just beyond it is Lehel Market, a great traditional market housed in a hideous boatlike structure designed by László Rajk, son of the communist minister of the interior executed for ‘Titoism’ in 1949. They say this building is his revenge.