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Western Highlands

The mountainous departments of Quetzaltenango, Totonicapán and Huehuetenango are generally less visited by tourists than regions closer to Guatemala City. But with extraordinarily dramatic scenery and vibrant indigenous culture, this part of the country presents an invariably fascinating panorama. Highlights of any visit include Quetzaltenango ('Xela' for short), Guatemala's second-largest city, with an ever-growing language school and volunteer work scene; the nearby town of Zunil, with its volcanically heated springs and Maya deity; ascents of the volcanoes around Quetzaltenango; and the remote mountain enclave of Todos Santos Cuchumatán, north of Huehuetenango, with a strong traditional culture and excellent walking possibilities.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Western Highlands.

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    Cofradia San Simón

    While you're in Zunil, visit the image of San Simón, the name given here to the much-venerated Mayan deity known elsewhere as Maximón. His effigy, propped up in a chair, is moved each year to a different house during the festival of San Simón, held on October 28. Ask any local where to find him. San Simón appears as a dapper white man with hat and dark glasses, a disguise he took to help him hide from the conquistadors. He is known to be particularly fond of the pleasures in life and always has a glass of rum at his hand and a cigarette in his mouth. Candles and incense surround him. Members of the cofradia that look after San Simón can also tell your fortune (Q25), counting out piles of red beans to the cardinal points to answer questions about your life.

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    El Mirador

    This viewpoint is 4km uphill from Chiantla. It's worth the steep climb on switchback roads for the absolutely stupendous views. On a clear day you can easily make out the volcanoes that loom over Antigua and Lake Atitlán. Mounted on plaques at the viewpoint here is the poem, A Los Cuchumatanes, penned by the poet Juan Dieguez Olaverri. If you can, get here for sunrise, when the vista is at its most spectacular.

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    Centro Intercultural de Quetzaltenango

    Quetzaltenango's railroad station, 1km east of the Templo de Minerva along 4a Calle, lay dormant for many years until the city converted it into this center, which now houses schools of art and dance, plus three interesting museums. The Museo Ixkik' is devoted to Maya weaving and traditional outfits, while some 400 paintings by Guatemala's leading modernists are exhibited in the Museo de Arte, including works by Efraín Recinos, Juan Antonio Franco and the landscape artist José Luis Álvarez. The Museo del Ferrocarril de los Altos covers the ambitious rail project that connected Quetzaltenango to the Pacific coast but operated for just three years from 1930 to 1933.

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    Shrine of Virgen del Rosario

    This statue of the Virgin Mary (also known as Virgen de Candelaria) clad entirely in locally-mined silver, is a big draw for local Catholics. She is believed to have mystical healing powers and people come from all over the country to seek her assistance. The main date for the pilgrimage is February 2, when the town packs out with supplicants and the infirm. Her powder blue shrine is at the rear of the Catholic church on the main square. Note the murals of the Virgin's miracles, along with a conquistador overseeing the Maya working in the silver mine. Donations are welcome to help with restoration from recent earthquake damage.

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    Parque Centro América

    Most of Xela's sights crowd in and around the broad central plaza. It's a great place for a stroll or to sit and people-watch. It was originally two separate parks, designed by Italian architect Alberto Porta in the 19th century; these were combined in a 1930s update into its current oblong shape. The most notable of the monuments scattered along its expanse is a rotunda of Ionic columns dedicated to the composer Rafael Álvarez Ovalle. In the center of the plaza is a pillar dedicated to Justo Rufino Barrios, the 19th-century president whose 'reforms' transferred land ownership from Maya peasants to coffee-plantation owners.

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    Cemetery

    Quetzaltenango's enormous cemetery is a pleasant and fascinating green space for a walk. To the left of the main entrance, visit the grave of the gypsy Vanushka, spurned and shamed by her wealthy lover until she died of a broken heart. Flowers are still left at her grave by those seeking better fortune in affairs of the heart. We recommend only visiting Friday to Sunday during the day, when there are plenty of people around.

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    Cerro el Baúl

    This wooded hill is a popular weekend destination for city dwellers, for its wonderful views across Xela's broad plain and to the volcanos that fringe it. There's a small cafe, some surprisingly fast and scary kids' slides and a giant obelisk with great Maya warrior Tecún Umán carved in relief – legend claims he is buried on this spot.

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    Museo de Arte

    An interesting if chaotic collection of some 400 paintings by Guatemala's leading modernists is exhibited here, including works by Efraín Recinos, Jorge Mazariegos and the landscape artist José Luis Álvarez. Most prominently displayed are the fantastic canvases of Rodrigo Díaz, who also happens to be the curator.

  • See

    Museo Ixkik'

    This museum is devoted to Maya weaving, with traditional outfits arranged by region. Director Raquel García is an expert on the symbols and meanings of indigenous clothing and provides interesting commentary.