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The mountainous departments of Quetzaltenango, Totonicapán and Huehuetenango are generally less visited by tourists than regions closer to Guatemala City. But with extraordinarily dramatic scenery and vibrant indigenous culture, this part of the country presents an invariably fascinating panorama. Highlights of any visit include Quetzaltenango ('Xela' for short), Guatemala's second-largest city, with an ever-growing language school and volunteer work scene; the nearby town of Zunil, with its volcanically heated springs and Maya deity; ascents of the volcanoes around Quetzaltenango; and the remote mountain enclave of Todos Santos Cuchumatán, north of Huehuetenango, with a strong traditional culture and excellent walking possibilities.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Western Highlands.
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While you're in Zunil, visit the image of San Simón, the name given here to the much-venerated Mayan deity known elsewhere as Maximón. His effigy, propped up in a chair, is moved each year to a different house during the festival of San Simón, held on October 28. Ask any local where to find him.
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This viewpoint is 4km uphill from Chiantla. It's worth the steep climb on switchback roads for the absolutely stupendous views. On a clear day you can easily make out the volcanoes that loom over Antigua and Lake Atitlán. Mounted on plaques at the viewpoint here is the poem, A Los Cuchumatanes, penned by the poet Juan Dieguez Olaverri. If you can, get here for sunrise, when the vista is at its most spectacular.
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A remnant of the Mam capital, the Zaculeu archaeological zone was 'restored' by the United Fruit Company in the 1940s, leaving its pyramids, ball courts and ceremonial platforms covered by a thick coat of graying plaster. It's the sort of restoration that probably makes archaeology purists scream, but for casual visitors the site, set amid pleasant lawns, goes a long way in simulating the appearance of an active religious center.
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Quetzaltenango's railroad station, 1km east of the Templo de Minerva along 4a Calle, lay dormant for many years until the city converted it into this center, which now houses schools of art and dance, plus three interesting museums.
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This statue of the Virgin Mary (also known as Virgen de Candelaria) clad entirely in locally-mined silver, is a big draw for local Catholics. She is believed to have mystical healing powers and people come from all over the country to seek her assistance. The main date for the pilgrimage is February 2, when the town packs out with supplicants and the infirm.
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Most of Xela's sights crowd in and around the broad central plaza. It's a great place for a stroll or to sit and people-watch. It was originally two separate parks, designed by Italian architect Alberto Porta in the 19th century; these were combined in a 1930s update into its current oblong shape. The most notable of the monuments scattered along its expanse is a rotunda of Ionic columns dedicated to the composer Rafael Álvarez Ovalle.
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San Andrés Xecul boasts one of the most exuberantly decorated churches in the country, a fiesta almost in itself. Technicolored saints, angels, flowers and climbing vines fight for space with angels frolicking on the ledges and a pair of jaguars scratching the top column on a shocking yellow facade. The cones on the bell towers are straight from the circus big top. Inside, a carpet of candles illuminate bleeding effigies of Christ. Above the altar, 'Fisher of Men' is written in blue neon, a reference to the town's patron saint.
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Quetzaltenango's enormous cemetery is a pleasant and fascinating green space for a walk. To the left of the main entrance, visit the grave of the gypsy Vanushka, spurned and shamed by her wealthy lover until she died of a broken heart. Flowers are still left at her grave by those seeking better fortune in affairs of the heart.
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San Francisco El Alto's 18th century church is a somewhat fortress-like affair, with solid arches holding up its domes. It's worth noting for it's collection of fine icons and gilded altar as well as the remains of its original frescos. If you pay Q5 at the church (the entrance is to the right of the main doors), you can climb the narrow stairs to the roof for panoramic views of the town.