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Fresh air fills your lungs on arriving in the classy town of Fontainebleau. It’s enveloped by the 280-sq-km Forêt de Fontainebleau, which is as big a playground today as it was in the 16th century, with superb walking and rock-climbing opportunities. Situated 68km southeast of Paris, the town grew up around its magnificent château, one of the most beautifully decorated and furnished in France. Although it’s less crowded and pressured than Versailles, exploring it can still take the best part of a day. You’ll also find a cosmopolitan drinking and dining scene, thanks to the town’s lifeblood, the international graduate business school INSEAD.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Fontainebleau.
Palace
The resplendent, 1900-room Château de Fontainebleau’s list of former tenants and guests reads like a who’s who of French royalty and aristocracy. Every square centimetre of wall and ceiling space is richly adorned with wood panelling, gilded carvings, frescoes, tapestries and paintings. Visits take in the Grands Appartements (State Apartments), which contain several outstanding rooms. An informative 1½-hour multimedia guide (€4) leads you around the main areas.
Gardens
On the northern side of the Château de Fontainebleau is the formal Jardin de Diane, created by Catherine de Médicis. Le Nôtre’s formal, 17th-century Jardin Français (French Garden), also known as the Grand Parterre, is east of the Cour de la Fontaine (Fountain Courtyard) and the Étang des Carpes (Carp Pond). The informal Jardin Anglais (English Garden), created in 1812, is west of the pond. Excavated in 1609, the Grand Canal pre-dates the Versailles canals by more than 50 years.
Forest
Beginning just 500m south of the Château de Fontainebleau and surrounding the town, the 280 sq km Forêt de Fontainebleau is one of the prettiest woods in the region. Its network of trails – including parts of the GR1 and GR11 – are excellent for walking and cycling. Woodpeckers and warblers are among its birdlife.