Gonder
Originally the city’s weekly market, Kidame Gebya is now packed throughout the week, although Saturday remains the biggest day and Sunday is rather quiet…
Must-see attractions in Northern Ethiopia
Aksum
Aksum has two interesting markets that burst to life on Saturday; both are best between 10.30am and noon. This one takes place under the massive fig tree…
Lalibela
To the south of the Bet Maryam courtyard is the pleasingly primitive and grotto-like chapel of Bet Danaghel (House of the Virgins), said to have been…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
Founded in the 13th century, Bete Maryam, near the tip of the peninsula, is the oldest monastery on Zege and its attractive church has some excellent…
Northern Ethiopia
Emperor Susenyos (r 1607–32) built his palace, known by locals as Susenyos Ghimb, on a peninsula (called Old Gorgora) 10km west of town. It can be reached…
Lalibela
In the trench fronting the western facade of Bet Golgotha, past the symbolic Tomb of Adam (a giant, hollowed-out block of stone), Bet Uraiel opened as a…
Bahir Dar
You can only reach the famous outlet of the Blue Nile by boat, but you can get pretty close along the Gonder road, 2km out of town, where a bridge spans…
Lalibela
Near Arbatu Ensessa, 41km off the Yemrehanna Kristos road, this is an interesting three-quarter monolith known particularly for its ancient frescoes…
Northern Ethiopia
The most rewarding of the monasteries is known for its jungle and dedicated monks. The building itself is fairly standard, but the highlight is a lovely…
Northern Ethiopia
The oldest monastery, Galila, is a one-hour boat journey southwest of Gorgora. Although destroyed by invading armies in the 16th century, the church was…
Lalibela
Carved into the courtyard’s northern wall at Bet Maryam is the tiny semi-chapel of Bet Meskel. Four pillars divide the gallery into two aisles spanned by…
Aksum
At the top of the stairs in front of the old St Mary of Zion Church is the Throne Stone where the coronation of 261 Aksumite kings took place.
Aksum
The main market, with spices and the like, runs all week, but is busiest on Saturday.
Gonder
Around 3km north of Gonder, several craft stalls with ‘Stars of David’ and ‘Falasha Village’ signs signal what’s really the former Falasha village of…
Aksum
This is one site where the past very much outweighs the present, at least for now. Early excavations revealed that Ta’akha Maryam was a magnificent palace…
Northern Ethiopia
The museum at Hayk Estifanos Monastery, on a long peninsula 4km northeast of town, dates from the mid-13th century and was founded by Abba Iyasus Moa…
Aksum
Despite the colourful legends, this large reservoir probably wasn’t where Sheba came to bathe. It was an important reservoir rather than a swimming pool…
Northern Ethiopia
Although not as dramatic as the crater lakes in southern Ethiopia, Zengana Lake is still beautiful with its perfectly circular shore. The 3.4km track…
Northern Ethiopia
Near Susenyos’ palace is the Portuguese Cathedral he funded. The decrepit state (due largely to a 1995 earthquake) evokes his failed attempt to force…
Mekele
From a distance, this memorial to the victims of the Derg could be mistaken for the world’s biggest golf ball and tee. From up close it’s another story,…
Aksum
On the way to Abba Pentalewon you’ll pass Abba Liqanos (men only), which was supposedly built by one of the Nine Saints and boasts excellent views. But…
Bahir Dar
Two-and-a-half kilometres south of the Martyrs Memorial, northeast of town, is Bezawit Hill. Its summit holds a former palace of Haile Selassie, which isn…
Bahir Dar
Just past the bridge is a large Martyrs Memorial Monument dedicated to those who died fighting the Derg. Its fountain cascading down to the Blue Nile is…
Mekele
The Italian-designed stone palace built for Emperor Yohannes IV (r 1872–89) is now an interesting museum. Although the palace itself is undergoing a…
Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray
This ancient site is little more than a barely accessible archaeological dig, but it's an important piece of the puzzle when it comes to the 7th-century…
Aksum
A rather ugly tin-roofed hut in this central park holds a stone with identical text to King Ezana’s Inscription, but it’s in poorer condition and in a…
Northern Ethiopia
Gorgora was a hard-fought prize during the Italian occupation and on the way into town you’ll pass Mussolini’s stele, high on a hill, which commemorates…
Aksum
The animal market, south of town, is one of the biggest in the north. It’s ripe with donkeys, goats, sheep and cows, but no camels. These are only sold…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
Because most of the treasures of Mitsele Fasiladas (on an island just south of Tana Cherkos and a short walk from the landing) were stolen in the 1990s,…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
The small island next door to Kebran Gabriel hosts the completely modern and, frankly, uninteresting Entos Eyesu, which offers the novelty of monks and…
Bahir Dar
There’s a one-table fish market in the mud-hut deacon’s village behind St George’s Church. The catch is brought in by tankwa in the morning and pelicans…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
Outside the gate to Ura Kidane Meret is the private Zeghie Satekela Museum, with a collection of household items displayed in a 300-year-old home.
Northern Ethiopia
If you’re a serious monastery lover, or just want to stretch your legs on the way to and from the palace, Angara Tekla Haimanot's current church was built…
Lalibela
Downstairs at the ticket office, the uninspired museum displays the usual church items. It's an obligatory stop, but any time spent here is merely…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
Just uphill from Bete Maryam, Bete Giorgis is being rebuilt from scratch following a fire. Its small museum, with an important collection of crowns, is…
Bahir Dar
One of the largest churches in Bahir Dar and right next to the water, but it's not a patch on Lake Tana's monasteries.
Northern Ethiopia
If you've a little time to kill, the Dessie Museum has old weapons forming the core of its varied collection.
Lalibela
Lalibela’s Saturday Market is quite large. It's quieter on other days, but still worth visiting.
Holy Saviour Catholic Cathedral
Northern Ethiopia
The modern Holy Saviour Catholic Cathedral features paintings by the famous artist Tekle Afewerk.
Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray
Mikael Meka’e is a minor, rarely visited church 15 minutes’ walk north of Petros We Paulos.
