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Eastern Ethiopia

Most of eastern Ethiopia is a stark landscape of dust-stained acacia scrub and forgettable towns. But scattered around this cloak of the commonplace are gems of genuine adventure. Undoubtedly, the east’s pièce de résistance is the walled city of Harar. There’s still a patina of myth about this ancient town, handed down from the days when its markets served as the Horn’s commercial hub and attracted powerful merchants and Islamic scholars. The colonial-rural melange that is the modern city of Dire Dawa delights in its own odd way, while nature lovers can get their kicks at Babille Elephant Sanctuary and Awash National Park, where the volcanic landscape takes top billing over the wildlife. The truly intrepid can follow the seemingly endless ribbon of asphalt north to the desolate southern Danakil Desert, territory that remains virtually unexplored since colonial adventurer Wilfred Thesiger first regaled tales of the Afar.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Ethiopia.

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Old Town
Harar’s old walled town (known as Jugal) is a fascinating place that begs exploration. The thick, 5m-high walls running 3.5km around town were erected in the 16th century in defensive response to the migrations northward of the Oromo, and little development occurred outside them until the early 20th century. There are six gates: five 16th-century originals and the car-friendly Harar Gate, also known as Duke’s Gate after Ras Makonnen, the first duke of Harar, who added it in 1889. The photograph on this gate is of Emir Abdullahi, the last of Harar’s 72 emirs and the city’s last Muslim leader. The nearby Shoa Gate and the Buda Gate (Bedri Bari) are also attractive, though they no longer have their wooden doors. Erer Gate (Argob Bari), the one Richard Burton entered through, and the little-used Sanga Gate (Suqutat Bari) lie to the east. To the north is busy Fallana Gate (Assum Bari). Within the walls the city is a maze of narrow, twisting alleys replete with historic buildings, including 82 mostly tiny mosques (two dating back to the 10th century), more than 100 shrines and tombs, and about 2000 traditional Harari houses. Fear not: you can’t get lost in the old town for too long. It is so compact that no matter how deep you get into the maze of alleyways you’ll eventually come to a wall or a larger street that will lead you to the bustling central square, Feres Magala (Horse Market). What breathes life into these landmarks is the community that still lives within the city walls. Prepare to encounter the magnificent Adare (Harari) women, known for their colourful dress, and the sweat-soaked blacksmiths near Buda Gate who still labour over open fires. You'll also find a number of shrines devoted to local religious leaders. They're peaceful, interesting and well-kept places, but they’re unsigned and so hard to find. Most are under large trees. The caretaker will expect a Birr20 tip for unlocking the door.
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Northern Hyena Feeding Site
Located north of Fallana Gate, this is one of Harar's two hyena feeding stations. A highlight of any visit to Harar, this impressive spectacle begins around 6.30pm. There are generally two to four hyenas that make an appearance after the 'hyena man' calls them. If none turn up, you'll be taken to a nearby hyena den where hyenas can be seen with their pups.
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Eastern Hyena Feeding Site
One of Harar's two infamous hyena feeding sites, it is located about 1.5km east of Erer Gate (near the garbage dump). This site is usually more productive than the other one because of its isolation and location near the garbage dump (although there's no guarantee). The first sight of Africa’s second-largest predator is usually of vague shadows and luminous green eyes as they skulk in and out of the shadows. As the pack grows more confident, they dart forward with their peculiar gait until all reservations are lost and they approach the hyena men to be fed, literally climbing on top of them to make a show of it. If you’re game you can feed them yourself, holding the meat stick in your hands or mouth. Most people go with a guide, but it’s not required. If you don't have your own wheels, take a taxi (from Birr150) – it costs more than a bajaj but it’s worth it because they have brighter headlights.
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Arthur Rimbaud Center
Near the middle of the walled city, and often mistakenly called Rimbaud’s House, is this museum dedicated to French poet Arthur Rimbaud with a series of illustrated wall panels about his life. It’s in an attractive Indian merchant house built on the site of an earlier house where it’s said Rimbaud lived. There’s an excellent photographic exhibition of turn-of-the-20th-century Harar – with several of the photos taken by Rimbaud – that show some similarities to the city of today but also significant differences. In front is a women’s association where you can sometimes see basket weaving. If you're looking for gifts, there are colourful baskets for sale.
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Ras Tafari's House & Sherif Harar City Museum
Close to Rimbaud’s House, the conspicuous Ras Tafari’s House was built by an Indian trader and many of its features, such as the Ganesh carving above the door, are Eastern in origin. Haile Selassie spent his honeymoon here: hence the house bears his precoronation name. It’s now home to a well-organised museum that houses a private collection of weaponry, coins, jewellery, household tools, old manuscripts and cultural dress. The owner will probably offer to show you his book-restoration workshop upstairs.
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Tomb of Sheikh Abadir
The tomb of Sheikh Abadir, Harar’s legendary founder and second emir, is an important pilgrimage site. His tomb still attracts worshippers seeking solutions to daily struggles, and if their prayers are answered devotees return with gifts of rugs, incense or expensive sandalwood. Non-Muslims are usually refused entry, but might be allowed in during the Thursday night gatherings (around midnight) when devotees come to play drums, read the Quran and pay respect.
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Kafira Market
With its Babel-like ambience, the enormous Kafira Market, sprawling way beyond its Moorish-style arches, is the most striking of Dire Dawa's markets. Delving into the organised chaos of its narrow lanes is an assault on the senses. This market attracts people from miles around, including Afar and Somali herders, Oromo farmers and Amhara merchants. Charcoal and firewood is brought in from the hinterlands by camel; look for them in the wadi (riverbed).
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Smugglers’ Market
The Smugglers’ Market is chock-full of counterfeit clothing and electronics (some real stuff, too) from China. Most of it is smuggled in from Somaliland either by night caravans of camel and donkey across the remote desert frontiers or cleverly concealed in trucks. The whole area is undergoing a major urban revamp, and most shops are expected to be relocated inside modern shopping malls.
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Jamia Mosque
Harar’s great mosque is the only one inside the wall big enough to host both men and women. The mosque was built in the 16th century, though according to local tradition a mosque has stood on the site since the 12th century. While not architecturally distinct, its white-tile minarets can be seen from all over the city. It’s off-limits to non-Muslims.