Dire Dawa
With its Babel-like ambience, the enormous Kafira Market, sprawling way beyond its Moorish-style arches, is the most striking of Dire Dawa's markets…
Dire Dawa
With its Babel-like ambience, the enormous Kafira Market, sprawling way beyond its Moorish-style arches, is the most striking of Dire Dawa's markets…
Southern Ethiopia
The World Heritage–listed Tiya Stelae Field is an important stelae cluster at the south end of Tiya village, about 35km after the turn-off to Adadi. Tiya…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
On top of the Zege Peninsula’s highest point, 10 minutes' walk from Bete Selassie, the church at Tekla Haimanot is similar but smaller than Bete Selassie…
Aksum
It’s worth taking a wander around the old quarter surrounding the Northern Stelae Field and stretching west to Ta’akha Maryam. It’s in these dusty streets…
Southern Ethiopia
Arba Minch, which is Amharic for ‘Forty Springs’, is named after the innumerable little springs that bubble up right at the base of the ridge below the…
Eastern Ethiopia
In the Dakhata Valley (better known as the Valley of Marvels), tall rocks have been sculpted into strange, often phallic shapes by the elements. The name…
Eastern Ethiopia
Towards the west end of the park, 600m above the plains, lies Fantale Crater (2007m). With its terrific vistas, total quiet and cool air, this dormant…
Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray
Of all Tigray’s rock-hewn churches, Mikael Imba, possibly dating from the 11th century, most resembles those seen at Lalibela. A three-quarter monolith,…
Bahir Dar
If you can tear yourself away from the lake, visit the large and lively main market. It’s busiest on Saturday – market day – when people stream into town…
Addis Ababa
A member of several international academies and with a drawer full of international decorations – about 100 at last count, including the British Order of…
Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray
This tiny church, with its stooped doorway, is hewn into the top of a small bleached hill and is thought to date from the 8th century. It’s known for its…
Western Ethiopia
Next to St Maryam Church, this museum displays some surprising finds for such a nondescript regional town: crowns and clothing belonging to Menelik and…
Rock-hewn Churches of Tigray
Built into a small outcrop rather than a big hill, this church feels like a tomb and may have been one before being converted. The 19th-century ‘new’…
Harar
The Smugglers’ Market is chock-full of counterfeit clothing and electronics (some real stuff, too) from China. Most of it is smuggled in from Somaliland…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
It’s said the Ark of the Covenant was hidden at Tana Cherkos for 800 years, which would seem to indicate it’s an interesting destination, but the present…
Aksum
The huge new church of St Mary of Zion was built in the 1960s so women had a place to worship and it displays Haile Selassie’s usual hideous taste. Still…
Arba Minch
Divided by the lyrical ‘Bridge of God’ from Lake Chamo, beautiful Abaya is Ethiopia’s second-largest lake. Its peculiar reddish-brown waters are a result…
Lalibela
On the way to Yemrehanna Kristos, around 35km from Lalibela, is this three-quarter monolith church in a wild, overgrown but rather beautiful setting. It’s…
Eastern Ethiopia
The best way to appreciate this scenic body of water is from the crater rim at one of the hotels, drink in hand. The view is sensational. According to…
Southern Ethiopia
These lovely grounds west of the fish market provide a green haven for nature lovers and are also popular with newlyweds. You'll see plenty of vervet and…
Harar
Harar’s great mosque is the only one inside the wall big enough to host both men and women. The mosque was built in the 16th century, though according to…
Southern Ethiopia
If you're serious about archaeology, this megalithic site is well worth the detour. It features 267 (or so they say) densely packed stelae that are…
Southern Ethiopia
Jinka’s famous Saturday market, the largest in the region, sits 300m northwest of the roundabout. It attracts a variety of ethnic groups including Ari,…
Dire Dawa
Rail fans can clamber through what remains of the once-great Imperial Railway Company of Ethiopia. Ask for Kadra Ali – she can get by in English and will…
Aksum
On the first seven days of each month (according to the Ethiopian calendar), St Mary of Zion’s replica Ark (the original replica) is paraded through the…
Harar
The main square is a bustling place with several minor points of interest. Most conspicuous is the monument to those who died fighting against Menelik’s…
Southern Ethiopia
The name of this hot springs resort 16km southeast of Shashemene translates as ‘Green Heaven’, which was more applicable before the hills were cleared of…
Gonder
Originally the city’s weekly market, Kidame Gebya is now packed throughout the week, although Saturday remains the biggest day and Sunday is rather quiet…
Southern Ethiopia
Ethiopia’s southernmost rock-hewn church, Adadi Maryam is believed to date from the 12th or 13th century. It's fairly crude in comparison with its…
Harar
Elbow your way through the Shoa Gate Market (also known as the Christian Market) to find etan (incense) from the Jijiga area; it’s used in the famous…
Southern Ethiopia
A definite must-see for history or archaeology buffs, the Tutiti stelae field comprises nearly 1500 tapered stones that are up to 7.5m tall (though few…
Southern Ethiopia
This place is the home-cum-workshop-cum-museum of Haile Selassie medals and memorabilia of Ras Hailu Tefari (Bandy), originally from St Vincent in the…
Addis Ababa
The towering Derg Monument is one of the more poignant reminders of the country’s painful communist rule. Topped by a massive red star and emblazoned with…
Institute of Ethiopian Studies
Addis Ababa
Inside the grounds of Addis Ababa University, this institute boasts the world’s best collection of books in English on Ethiopia. It’s free for a half-day…
Aksum
Aksum has two interesting markets that burst to life on Saturday; both are best between 10.30am and noon. This one takes place under the massive fig tree…
Lalibela
To the south of the Bet Maryam courtyard is the pleasingly primitive and grotto-like chapel of Bet Danaghel (House of the Virgins), said to have been…
Lake Tana & its Monasteries
Founded in the 13th century, Bete Maryam, near the tip of the peninsula, is the oldest monastery on Zege and its attractive church has some excellent…
Northern Ethiopia
Emperor Susenyos (r 1607–32) built his palace, known by locals as Susenyos Ghimb, on a peninsula (called Old Gorgora) 10km west of town. It can be reached…
Lalibela
In the trench fronting the western facade of Bet Golgotha, past the symbolic Tomb of Adam (a giant, hollowed-out block of stone), Bet Uraiel opened as a…
Southern Ethiopia
Perched on a ridge 2km west of Konso, this atmopheric market proffers grand views over the Rift Valley. For sale, you’ll find women’s traditional skirts,…