Leib (Estonian black bread) is a thing of great beauty and quiet national pride, and you'll find a peerless rendition here: dense, moist, almost fruity in its Christmas-cake complexity. Thickly sliced and served with salt-flaked butter, it's the ideal accompaniment to the delightful New Nordic ('New Estonian'?) food at this garden restaurant in the headquarters of Tallinn’s Scottish club (really!).
Pitch-perfect service and unimprovably simple dishes such as pike-perch from Pärnu Bay, cooked at 56°C and paired with autumn vegetables and fennel-butter sauce, combine to produce the very best of Tallinn dining.