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The ‘Red Sea Riviera’ is a place of many different attractions. On the one hand, it is famous (or infamous, depending on your view) for cheap package holidays – overdevelopment has pockmarked the coastline deeply, leaving a trail of megaresorts and half-finished hotels in its wake. Alongside these are some exceptional exclusive resorts secluded from the hustle of the packages. Dig deeper and you will find other, more surprising sides to the region.
Some of the most important sites in Christianity's early evolution lie in the northern Red Sea coast's barren mountains. Venture south of brashly loud and proud Hurghada, and you’ll not only find some of Egypt’s best diving but also the epic, wild expanse of the Eastern Desert. Criss-crossed by trade routes dating back to the far reaches of prehistory, and scattered with ancient rock art and lonely ruins, this little-visited area is a desert-adventurer’s dream.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Red Sea Coast.
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This historic monastery traces its origins to the 4th century AD when monks began to settle at the foot of Gebel Al Galala Al Qibliya, where their spiritual leader lived. Today the monastery is a large complex surrounded by high walls with several churches, a bakery and a lush garden. The 120 monks who live here have dedicated their lives to seeking God in the stillness and isolation of the desert, in a life built completely around prayer.
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Dating to the 4th century, the Monastery of St Paul began as a grouping of hermitages in the cliffs around the site where Paul had his cell. The complex's heart is the Church of St Paul, which was built in and around the cave where Paul lived. It’s cluttered with altars, candles, ostrich eggs (the symbol of the Resurrection) and murals representing saints and biblical stories. The fortress above the church was where the monks retreated during Bedouin raids.
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This lagoon 18km south-east of Marsa Alam is home to three dive sites with a reef system full of interesting coral pinnacles and fish life. What makes Samadai so special, though, is the pod of spinner dolphins (numbering up to 480) that regularly visits the lagoon. As with any wildlife-watching, there is no guarantee that you'll see dolphins on your visit; however, the huge diversity of corals and other sea life makes snorkelling or diving here a wonderful experience.
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North of Marsa Alam, Elphinstone has steep reef walls covered with soft corals and is washed by strong currents that make it ideal for spotting sharks – seven species reportedly frequent its waters. This is one of the best dives in the region. Depth: 20m to 40m. Rating: advanced.
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Perched about 300m above St Anthony's Monastery on a cliff just outside the monastery walls is the cave where St Anthony is believed to have spent the final 40 years of his life. Inside the cave, which is for the svelte and nonclaustrophobic only (you must squeeze through a narrow entry to get inside), there is a small chapel with an altar and a tiny recessed area where the saint lived – bring a torch (flashlight) along to illuminate the interior.
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The starkly beautiful desert of the Wadi Gimal Protectorate extends inland for about 85km from its coastal opening south of Marsa Alam, and is home to a rich variety of bird life, gazelles and stands of mangrove. Throughout the interior are scattered the tumbled remains of emerald and gold mines dating from the Pharaonic and Roman eras. This area provided emeralds that were used throughout the ancient world and was the exclusive source of the gem for the Roman Empire.
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In the middle of the Wadi Gimal Protectorate, 60km south of Marsa Alam, lies a pristine sand beach with azure water and excellent coral and fish viewing. Because it is located inside a national park, Sharm El Luli has no development at all – no hotels, restaurants or shops and no facilities. Most of the very few visitors come for the day, bring what they need and take everything away when they leave.
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Umm Qamar, 9km north of the Giftun Islands, is highlighted by three coral towers that are swathed in beautiful soft, purple coral and surrounded by a large range of fish as well as a wreck at 25m. The site is easily accessible by boat from Hurghada and offers plenty of thrills for divers and snorkellers.
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These islands, among the closest to Hurghada, form part of a marine reserve and are surrounded by a number of spectacular reefs teeming with marine life, including Hamda, Banana Reef, Sha’ab Sabrina, Erg Somaya and Sha’ab Torfa. Depth: 5m to 100m. Rating: intermediate to advanced.