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Zhejiang
It's Hángzhōu, the handsome capital city, that lands Zhèjiāng (浙江) on many a traveller's itinerary. Home to picture-perfect landscapes of classical Chinese beauty (and just a short train ride from Shànghǎi), Hángzhōu is the obvious highlight. Yet the province offers so much more. There are water towns with spiderweb networks of canals and restored Ming and Qing dynasty merchants' homes (Wūzhèn and Nánxún), also in easy striking distance. Among the thousands of islands dotting a ragged and fragmented shoreline is the island of Pǔtuóshān, one of China's four most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. More intrepid travellers can head west, where ancient villages retain their traditional architecture and bucolic charms. Meanwhile travellers looking for the opposite of intrepid can hole up in one of the stylish resorts nestled among the hillside bamboo groves and tea fields of naturally cool Mògànshān.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Zhejiang.
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West Lake
The very definition of classical beauty in China, West Lake is utterly mesmerising: pagoda-topped hills rise over willow-lined waters as boats drift slowly through a idyll of leisurely charm. Walkways, perfectly positioned benches, parks and gardens around the banks of the lake offer a thousand and one vantage points for visitors to admire the faultless scenery. Originally a lagoon adjoining the Qiantang River, the lake didn’t come into existence until the 8th century, when the governor of Hangzhou had the marshy expanse dredged. As time passed, the lake’s splendour was gradually cultivated: gardens were planted, pagodas built, and causeways and islands were constructed from dredged silt. Celebrated poet Su Dongpo himself had a hand in the lake’s development, constructing the Su Causeway (苏堤, Sūdī) during his tenure as local governor in the 11th century. It wasn’t an original idea – the poet-governor Bai Juyi had already constructed the Bai Causeway (白堤, Báidī) some 200 years earlier. Lined by willow, plum and peach trees, today the traffic-free causeways with their half-moon bridges make for restful outings. Lashed to the northern shores by the Bai Causeway is Gushan Island (孤山岛, Gūshān Dǎo), the largest island in the lake and the location of the Zhejiang Provincial Museum and Zhongshan Park. The island’s buildings and gardens were once the site of Emperor Qianlong’s 18th-century holiday palace and gardens. Also on the island is the intriguing Seal Engravers Society. Though it was closed for renovations at the time of research, it's dedicated to the ancient art of carving the name seals (chops) that serve as personal signatures. The northwest of the lake is fringed with the lovely Quyuan Garden, a collection of gardens spread out over numerous islets and renowned for their fragrant spring lotus blossoms. Near Xiling Bridge (Xīlíng Qiáo) is Su Xiaoxiao's Tomb, a 5th-century courtesan who died of grief while waiting for her lover to return. It’s been said that her ghost haunts the area and the tinkle of the bells on her gown are audible at night. The smaller island in the lake is Xiaoying Island, where you can look over at Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, three small towers in the water on the southern side of the island; each has five holes that release shafts of candlelight on the night of the mid-autumn festival. From Lesser Yíngzhōu Island, you can gaze over to Red Carp Pond, home to a few thousand red carp. Impromptu opera singing, ballroom dancing and other cultural activities often take place around the lake, and if the weather’s fine, don’t forget to earmark the eastern shore for sunset over West Lake photos. It's hardly needed, but musical dancing fountains burst into action at regular intervals throughout the night and day, close to Lakeview Park. Crowds can be a real issue here, especially on public days off when it can seem as if every holidaymaker in China is strolling around the lake. Escape the jam of people by getting out and about early in the morning – also the best time to spot the odd serene lakeside taichi session. The best way to get around the lake is by bike or on foot.
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Lingyin Temple
Hangzhou’s most famous Buddhist temple, Lingyin Temple was originally built in AD 326, but has been destroyed and rebuilt no fewer than 16 times. During the Five Dynasties period (907–960) about 3000 monks lived here. The Hall of the Four Heavenly Kings is astonishing, with its four vast guardians and an ornate cabinet housing Milefo (the future Buddha). The Great Hall contains a magnificent 20m-high statue of Siddhartha Gautama (Sakyamuni), sculpted from 24 blocks of camphor wood in 1956 and based on a Tang dynasty original. Behind the giant statue is a startling montage of Guanyin surrounded by 150 small figures, including multiple luóhàn (arhat), in a variety of poses. The earlier hall collapsed in 1949, crushing the Buddhist statues within, so it was rebuilt and the statue conceived. The Hall of the Medicine Buddha is beyond. The walk up to the temple skirts the flanks of Feilai Peak (飞来峰, Fēilái Fēng, Peak Flying from Afar), magically transported here from India according to legend. The Buddhist carvings (all 470 of them) lining the riverbanks and hillsides and tucked away inside grottoes date from the 10th to 14th centuries and are as appealing as Lingyin Temple itself. To get a close-up view of the best carvings, including the famed ‘laughing’ Maitreya Buddha, follow the paths along the far (eastern) side of the stream. There are several other temples near Lingyin Temple that can be explored, including Yongfu Temple and Taoguang Temple. Behind Lingyin Temple is the Northern Peak (Běi Gāofēng), which can be scaled by cable car (up/down/return ¥30/20/40). From the summit there are sweeping views across the lake and city. To get here, take local bus 7 from anywhere on the north shore of West Lake (¥2, 20 minutes, frequent). A taxi costs about ¥25.
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Longjing Tea Village
The lush, green scenery around this tea village up in the hills southwest of West Lake makes for a wonderful break from the bustle of Hangzhou. Visitors can wander through the village and up into the tea plantations themselves. During the spring, which is the best time to visit, straw-hatted workers can be seen picking the tea leaves by hand in the fields, and baskets of the fresh leaves are left out to dry in the sun back in the village. Stop into any of the casual restaurants and teahouses to taste the lóngjǐng (dragon well) tea itself, which is renowned throughout China. It's expensive but has a fine, distinctive flavour. Well-signposted walking trails lead off from the village into the surrounding hills. To get to the tourist area, take local bus 27 (¥2, 25 minutes, frequent) from anywhere along the northern shore of West Lake and get off at the Lóngjǐngcháshì (龙井茶室) stop. Last buses at 8pm. A taxi costs about ¥25. Bus 87 usefully connects most of the sites in the tea plantation area.
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Jingci Temple
The serene yet monastically active Chan (Zen) Jingci Temple was built in AD 954 and has been fully restored. The splendid first hall contains the massive, foreboding Heavenly Kings and an elaborate red and gold case encapsulating Milefo (the future Buddha) and Weituo (protector of the Buddhist temples and teachings). The main hall – known as the Great Treasure Hall – contains a vast seated effigy of Sakyamuni (Buddha). Hunt down the awesome 1000-arm Guanyin (千手观音) in the Guanyin Pavilion, with her huge fan of arms. The temple’s enormous bronze bell is struck 108 times for prosperity on the eve of the Lunar New Year. There's a vegetarian restaurant attached.
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Six Harmonies Pagoda
The 60m-high octagonal Six Harmonies Pagoda, dating from AD 1165 in its current form but first built in AD 960, is a stout pagoda that once served as a lighthouse, and was said to possess magical powers to halt the 6.5m-high tidal bore that thunders up Qiantang River. You can climb the tight stairs of the pagoda. Behind it stretches a charming walk through terraces dotted with sculptures, bells (¥10 buys you six chimes and a lucky bracelet), shrines and inscriptions. A small exhibition hall on the grounds does a good job of explaining the significance of the few remaining painted tiles and carved brick panels of flowers, birds and fairies that remain in the pagoda itself (which has limited signage). The pagoda is 3km southwest of West Lake, near an enormous rail and road bridge (钱塘江大桥, Qiántáng Jiāng Dàqiáo) spanning the Qiantang River.
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Mu Xin Art Museum
Opened in 2015, the imposing white slabs of this gallery couldn't be more in contrast to the black timber houses of the surrounding Xizha scenic area of Wuzhen, showing off modern mastery over the water while being a homage to the multilayered life on an artist. Inside are the collected art pieces by Mu Xin (木心; 1927–2011), a Wuzhen writer and painter who had many of his works destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and was exiled to New York in 1982. Displayed pieces are across five permanent halls and include manuscripts from when Mu Xin was in prison, a painting hall, video hall and literature hall. You'll pass the museum after entering the ticketed scenic area and before entering the ancient town proper.
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Qinghefang Old Street
At the southern end of Zhongshan Zhonglu is this touristy, crowded and bustling pedestrian street, with makeshift puppet theatres, teahouses, and gift and curio stalls selling everything from stone teapots to boxes of lóngxūtáng (龙须糖, dragon whiskers sweets), ginseng and silk. It’s also home to several traditional medicine shops, including the Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum, which is an actual dispensary and clinic. The pedestrianised area continues on the adjoining Southern Song Imperial St (南宋御街, Nan Song Yu Jie), which runs along one of Hangzhou’s historic thoroughfares and is also packed with shops and cafes.
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Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum
The Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum has a dispensary and clinic adjoined to the museum. Established by the Qing dynasty merchant Hu Xueyan in 1874, the medicine shop and factory retain the typical style of the period. The museum itself is housed in a lovely, musty old building with a bright courtyard full of medicinal plants. Displays range from the fascinating, such as an ancient instruction book for medicine-making and old medical implements, to the surreal – including a giant rhino model.
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Xiaoying Island
Wooden cruise boats shuttle visitors from a number of points on the banks of West Lake to the Mid-Lake Pavilion and Xiaoying Island, which has a fine central pavilion and ‘nine-turn’ causeway. From the island you can look over at the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, a string of three small towers in the water, each of which has five holes that release shafts of candlelight on the night of the Mooncake Festival in autumn.