Shanghai

The Bund is mainland China’s most iconic concession-era backdrop, Shanghai’s standout spectacle and a source of intense local pride. A gorgeous curve of larger-than-life heritage architecture, the buildings here may be dwarfed by the city’s modern high-rises, but they carry in their stones an old-fashioned gravity that simply can’t be matched. As a monument to the unbridled pursuit of wealth, it’s no surprise that the Bund was left to languish during the communist years, but China’s economic renaissance has restored its standing among the city’s most stylish panoramas.

It’s hard to talk about Shanghai without references to skyscrapers, as they have become the defining architectural style of the city. Pudong towers are forever scaling new heights and China's tallest building, the Shanghai Tower, even eclipses the sun at certain angles. There’s nowhere else in the country quite like it. But Shanghai is no one-trick pony, and the sheer diversity of architectural styles is hugely impressive. Wandering the neighbourhoods of the city takes you past art deco marvels, concession-era villas, Buddhist temples and neoclassical beauties.

Yuyuan Gardens is one of the nation’s best examples of traditional Chinese gardens. With its ponds, trees, flowers, bridges, pavilions and harmonic compositions, the Old City gardens encourage contemplation and reflection – elusive moods in today’s frantic Shanghai. It's a popular place, though, so get here early in the day while it’s still quiet. After exploring, join the hectic throb of shoppers in the attached bazaar, an excellent place to pick up skilfully made handicrafts, keepsakes and a snack.

An incomparable melange of regional Chinese restaurants, stylish Shanghainese eateries, international dining and no-frills street food, the French Concession is the epicentre of the city’s culinary revolution. On a single strip, you might find explosively hot Sichuanese, a Hong Kong–style diner, Shanghainese seafood and Xinjiang noodles, allowing you to travel to the end of the Middle Kingdom and back. Venture just a little bit further and you can also explore international flavours from the furthest corners of the globe.

Shanghai’s air-conditioned malls can be a haven on a hot day, but if you want to see locals in their true shopping element, drop by a market. Get your haggling hat on and your elbows out – among all the jostling and banter and tricks of the trade, you might just find exactly what you’re looking for. Don’t forget: prices aren’t fixed. In Shanghai Old City, roll up your sleeves in the South Bund Fabric Market or cast a shrewd eye over the goods at the Fuyou Antique Market.

While Shanghai and materialism fit together like hand and glove, the city’s connection to spiritual matters can seem more tenuous, to say the least. Despite first impressions, however, the city harbours a strong affection for religious tradition, best observed in the main courtyard of this century-old Buddhist temple, which witnesses a continual stream of worshippers throughout the day. Housed on the top floor of a rear building is the temple’s centrepiece and crowd-puller, a 1.9m-high statue of Sakyamuni crafted from pure Burmese jade.

Shanghai has traditionally eschewed the arts in favour of more commercial pursuits, but the escalating value of Chinese artwork has led to the emergence of a busy gallery scene. Located in former cotton mills and factory spaces, the industrially chic M50 is one of the city’s main creative hubs and has a scattering of studios, dozens of edgy galleries and a handful of cafes. Here, buyers might get their hands on a piece by the next big star in Asia's art world.

The one-time city of sin, Shanghai had its heyday back in the roaring 1920s, but there’s no doubt the place still loves to party and have a drink or two. With everything on offer from creative cocktails at slick rooftop bars to secret speakeasy spots in the French Concession, not to mention plenty of craft-beer breweries and intimate wine bars, you'll have no trouble finding plenty of ways to toast the town. Look out for happy hour deals throughout the city.

Shanghai has never been a city to bother with the rear-view mirror, and this obvious disregard for tradition is what most distinguishes it from the rest of the country. There are a few glaring exceptions, however; the standout Shanghai Museum, Shanghai History Museum and the Shanghai Natural History Museum are all inspiring tributes to the path of beauty throughout the millennia, from ancient bronzes and gorgeous Qing-dynasty ceramic masterpieces to urban planning and the wonders of the natural world.

Whiz down to Hangzhou on the high-speed train in a shot. Take your time dawdling around willow-fringed West Lake, one of the nation’s top sights. The most famous city lake in China, it’s vast, placid and beautiful in equal measure, and best savoured in a very low gear. With its pagoda-capped hills to the north, picturesque causeways and lakeside gardens and parks, West Lake is even more spellbinding come nightfall, when couples walk languorously along its shores. Sundown provides spectacular photographs across the water to the setting sun.

In the early 20th century, Shanghai single-handedly shaped the image of the modern Chinese woman through calendar posters, which were printed in the millions and distributed throughout the rural hinterland and beyond. Ever since, it has worn the crown of China’s most fashionable city, and there’s no better place to get a feel for the latest trends than the French Concession. Browse boutiques for sequin-covered shoes, contemporary jewellery, silky summer dresses and the hip new styles of a growing crop of local and international designers.

When Shanghai’s super-scale buildings leave you feeling totally dwarfed, wander around the city’s traditional lǐlòng and lòngtáng lanes. Exploring this charming realm allows you to discover a more personable aspect of the city, so go slowly. This is where you can find Shanghai’s homey and more intimate side: narrow alleys, classic three-storey buildings, washing hung on poles, folk sitting out catching up on gossip, and a warm community spirit. It's history, heritage and a lethargic tempo entirely at odds with the roar of the main drag.

The nearest decent-sized water town to Shanghai, Zhujiajiao is ideal for a day trip. Easily reached by bus, there are quintessential traditional bridges, pinched lanes, ancient streets, hoary Qing-dynasty temples, waterside views and even some pretty fine cafes. People have had dwellings here for some 5,000 years, in one form or another. Zhujiajiao is small enough to mean you never get entirely lost, and if you take to the water-town culture, you can carry on to other canal towns in neighbouring Jiangsu province.