Montréal

The old city is where Montréal began and where its heart still lies. Stroll the old-world cobblestoned streets and grand plazas, and learn about local history in the museums. The neighborhood also has fine churches, 19th-century (and earlier) buildings juxtaposed with contemporary constructions, excellent shops and boutiques, numerous art galleries and cafes for your inner bohemian, and some of Montréal’s finest dining and lodging options. Old Montréal is like traveling in time without leaving the best of modernity behind.

This ever-expanding gem in the heart of downtown Montréal is one of the best museums in the country. The striking Bourgie Pavilion is in a gorgeous 19th-century church adjacent to the original neoclassical building, while the modern Desmarais Pavilion across the street reflects its engagement with contemporary art. Among the museum's treasures is a beautifully displayed collection of Inuit art, along with some magnificent works by Québécois artists. Temporary exhibitions range from iconic paintings from Moorish Spain to Jean Paul Gaultier retrospectives.

Montréalers are justly proud of their passion for cultivating and appreciating good music. What else would you expect from a city that has turned out everything from Leonard Cohen to Arcade Fire? That’s part of the reason why thousands gather Downtown every summer for the sizzling sounds of the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, the city’s main party. Free outdoor shows, star performers and a wide variety of genres make it one of the best reasons to visit.

The pride of Montréal and one of the most beautiful churches on the continent, the Basilique Notre-Dame is a 19th-century Gothic Revival masterpiece with spectacular craftsmanship. Originally it was a humble building dating from 1683; it was rebuilt in 1829. Everything, from the great bell (12 tonnes) in the western tower to the 1891 organ with its 7000 pipes and the stained-glass windows depicting the city’s history, speaks of the strong faith of the congregations of yesteryear.

The lungs of Montréal, Parc du Mont-Royal is the large green space covering much of Mont-Royal, the mountain at the heart of the city. Montréalers grow up spending their winters sledding down its slopes and skating on its ponds. The rest of the year is perfect for looking out over the city from its belvederes, jogging, cycling or simply walking its forested paths. An abundance of fauna and flora make it a big draw for nature lovers.

Let's be fair: Rue St-Denis in the Quartier Latin isn't as down-and-out bohemian as it makes out, but it's still wonderful. On the blocks below Rue Sherbrooke Est, students from the nearby Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM) sip beer in brasseries, artists hobnob in cafes and everyone else seems to just watch the world go by. No wonder it was at the heart of the student protest movement that erupted in the city in recent years. It’s also home to some excellent theaters, cinemas, street art, cafes and restaurants.

This old industrial waterway that powered Canada’s industrialization has been cleaned, spruced up and made ready to welcome thousands of cyclists, joggers and amateur sailors every summer. The best way to enjoy it is to rent a bike and pedal from Old Montréal to the Marché Atwater, where you can browse farm produce, artisanal cheeses and freshly baked goods. The canal’s banks are a perfect spot for picnicking with your purchases.

There’s always something fun happening at Montréal’s Old Port, whatever your pleasure. Take in a circus at Cirque du Soleil, bring the kids to a science museum, hop on a boat cruise to the Lachine Rapids, pamper yourself in a floating spa or simply park yourself in a cafe along Rue de la Commune and do some serious people-watching. There's even a Plage de l’Horloge, an artificial beach on the riverfront where you can dig your heels in the sand and gaze out over the mighty St Lawrence (no swimming).

You might not have a ticket to the Grand Prix du Canada here, but this pair of island parks in the St Lawrence River is a great spot to get a view of the city and plenty of fresh air. The Musée Stewart is a rare, authentic British garrison that tells the history of the city. After walking the forested paths, get active kayaking off the beach of Plage des Îles or kick back to the electro summer beats of Piknic Électronik.

Where to begin? This farmers market in Little Italy has hundreds of vendors hawking fresh vegetables, fruit, seafood and baked goods, as well as seemingly endless restaurants and shops selling everything from Québec jams and wine to maple products, goat's cheese, honey, microbrewed beers, crepes, European and Middle Eastern pastries, and artisanal deli meats. Nearby restaurants all take full advantage, to the delight of foodies.