Hopping in the car and going on a drive through the stunning landscape of the Balkan Peninsula or along the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea is a fantastic way to explore this part of southeastern Europe. Read ahead for road trip inspiration with four scenic drives showcasing the region’s immaculate beaches, epic mountain ranges, ancient castles, and idyllic valleys.

Editor's note: during COVID-19 there are restrictions on travel. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.

Croatia and Montenegro: Dubrovnik to Lovćen National Park

Distance: 65 miles/105km

Begin this cross-border trip through the breathtaking Dinaric Alps by taking the D8 from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Perast, Montenegro. While these neighboring countries share the gorgeous Adriatic coastline, prepare for a change of scenery as the fairly flat topography of Croatia’s southern corner turns into the dark, craggy peaks of Montenegro.

When you arrive at the quaint town of Perast, anchored on the Unesco-listed Bay of Kotor, you will be enchanted by its peaceful atmosphere, baroque palazzi and 16 stunning churches. The top attractions are Gospa od Škrpjela and Sveti Djordje, which you’ll find floating just offshore in the middle of the aquamarine bay. Both islands are accessible by boat.

Hop back in the car and drive 30km down the road from Perast to the bay's absolute highlight, the city of Kotor. Dive into medieval history by climbing the city walls to St John’s Hill – a fun though rigorous hike up the ancient fortifications dating back to the 9th century.

Those looking for incredible views from heights of up to 1749m should complete their drive on the serpentine road, which leads up a steep mountain from Kotor to one of Montenegro’s finest natural marvels, Lovćen National Park. This drive boasts 25 hairpin turns and mind-boggling mountain views. Your entire trip can range from four hours to three days depending on the length of each stop.

Bulgaria: Plovdiv to Veliko Tarnovo

Distance: 132 miles/213km

Heading north along Route 55 from Plovdiv, this drive begins with bucolic views of Bulgaria’s heartland. A wonderful stop on this particular journey is Dryanovo, a small town located at the base of the Balkan Mountains. This charming village is home to the cliff-backed Dryanovo Monastery dedicated to St Michael. The building’s origin dates back to the 13th century and has a long past of destruction and revolution. The church was burned down to the ground twice during the years when Bulgaria was ruled by the Ottoman Empire, but was rebuilt in the 17th century and stands to this day. The most recent restoration is quite remarkable.

Continuing north on the highway toward Veliko Târnovo, this last 30-minute leg is consistently ranked as a top scenic drive in Europe – the views are truly spectacular. You will meander through the sprawling Valley of the Roses, a lush area banked by two river valleys that grows some of the rarest varieties of roses in the world. If you are lucky enough to be visiting in May or June when the flowers are in full bloom, open your car windows all the way, take a luxurious inhale and enjoy the heavenly scent for the entire stretch of the valley. Other charming stops along this drive include the Russian-styled golden-domed church in Shipka and the town of Tryavna, known for its centuries-old woodcarving tradition.

Albania: Vlora to Himara via the Llogara Pass

Distance: 45 miles/72km

Hikers, bikers, beach lovers and history buffs alike will enjoy this drive’s sweeping views of the Dukat Valley to the north and the Albanian Riviera to the south. From Vlora head south on SH8, a smooth roadway cut directly into the mountainside. In addition to the stunning beaches below, other delightful sights may include a herd of goats walking casually down the road with their shepherd, or locals riding mules or donkeys.

Noteworthy stops along SH8 are the beautiful beaches of Orikum and Dhërmi. Between these two beaches you will also find Llogara Pass National Park – home to some of the finest hiking trails in the country. The park combines fresh high-altitude mountain air with the upstream breeze from the Ionian Sea and is an excellent site for some outdoors adventure or a simple family picnic.

Finish your drive with a visit to Himara, one of the most pristine beaches along the Albanian coastline. Himara’s serene oceanfront also has plenty of seafood restaurants, and beach bars to try – for something truly local, have a shot of rakia, a popular fruit brandy native to the Balkans.

Bosnia and Hercegovina: Sarajevo to Kravica Waterfall

Distance: 111 miles/178km

Highway E73/M17 runs parallel to the turquoise Neretva River, which cuts through Bosnia and Hercegovina and Croatia, on its way to the Adriatic Sea. The river successfully irrigates one of the most fertile and ecologically diverse valleys in the Balkans. Traveling from Sarajevo to Mostar you will pass the historic town of Konjic, home to a beautiful six-span stone bridge. However, this leg of the drive is so magnificent you may not want any interruptions!

Upon arrival in Mostar, visit the old town and its charming cobblestone streets lined with markets selling local jewellery, pottery and flatware. The city has distinctly Ottoman architecture including delicate mosques with minarets so tall they seem to touch the clouds. Stari Most, a bridge renowned for both its turbulent history and its incredible view, is also a Unesco World Heritage Site. After you stroll over its graceful arch, you will surely see why. For multi-day travellers, Mostar is also the perfect overnight stop.

On the drive from Mostar to Kravica Waterfall you will pass the Imperial Vineyards. Unknown to many, Hercegovina provided wine to the royalty of the Austro-Hungarian Empire during its peak. Stop for a glass of local wine among vast fields of perfectly manicured grapevines.

As a perfect finale to a wonderful drive, you will be thrilled by the view of your final destination, Kravica Waterfall, at close range. Enjoy lunch and a swim in its emerald waters while gazing up at one of the finest examples of raw natural beauty in the Balkans.

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Article first published in January 2019, and last updated in January 2021.

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Explore the Balkans on these four epic drives

Spanning 800 sq km in the expanses of Bulgaria ’s Rodopi Mountains, Rila National Park is the Balkans’ top destination for outdoor adventures and snow sports. It is also a conservation reserve for some of Europe’s rarest wildlife. Thanks to the park’s efforts to keep Rila’s spectacular nature clean and sustainable, these two worlds can exist next to each other.

The forests, lakes and mountains in Rila are clean and unspoiled because they are fiercely protected by the park's management. Hiking and mountain-climbing are supported with an EU grant to help develop sustainable tourism in Rila National Park. But swimming, hunting and fishing are forbidden almost everywhere, and camping is very carefully controlled.

Hiking

Within Rila National Park are hiking trails of all lengths and difficulties. The best-known route is the Seven Rila Lakes, which begins in the village of Panichishte with a climb (or chair-lift) through thick pine forest. Above the forest is a wild plateau with seven glacial lakes. The hike takes you to each of them, from Dolnoto ezero ("The Lower Lake", at 2100m) until you are perched on a precipice above the highest lake, Salzata ("The Tear"). At an altitude of over 2500m (8200ft) this platform looks down over all seven lakes, and gives a stupefying 360-degree view of the whole of Rila Park. With a descent past the lakes again and back through the forest to Panichishte, this hike takes all day.

The other popular all-day hike is to the top of Musala. At an altitude of over 2900m (almost 10,000ft), Musala is the highest mountain between the Alps and the Caucasus. Starting in Borovets ski resort with a ride on the Yastrebets chair-lift, the climb to the peak is a steep ascent over jagged boulders. While reaching Musala’s summit is a serious feat, you don’t need to be a professional: if you are fit and dressed for the cold you will be up to the challenge. It takes about six hours to get from the chair-lift to the top and back to Yastrebets.

Read more: How to be sustainable on your hiking trip

Skiing

The mountains beside Musala at Borovets, outside the town of Samokov (50km from Panichishte) are now Bulgaria’s plushest outdoor adventure resort. Borovets has slopes and trails for all types of snow sports. There is also a host of après-ski bars; but Bulgarian activists concerned with Rila’s nature have made sure that all visitors to the resort are now given leaflets in their huts and chalets, with strict guidelines on how to behave in the park.

Wildlife

Next to the ski slopes, the pine forests of Rila National Park are home to 48 species of mammal, including brown bears, grey wolves and wild boar, as well as nearly 100 species of birds, among them the protected little owl and capercaillie. That these species are protected is also thanks to the park’s management, which arranges for scientists and students to research Rila’s habitats, and for conservationists to keep them healthy. People who come to the park to ski or hike are encouraged to learn about the wildlife around them: if you go to the visitor centre in Panichishte you will see maps and videos about Rila’s biodiversity.

Read more: Back to nature: 8 rewilding projects you can visit in Europe

Steam baths

A 10km hike from Panichishte (or about an hour’s drive from Borovets and Musala) is the spa town of Sapareva Banya. With indoor and outdoor natural mineral pools that are open all year round, filled by some of the hottest mineral springs in the world, the spas soothe the legs and backs that have been battered by hiking Musala and the Seven Lakes. The restaurants in Sapareva Banya serve local Rodopi dishes, most of which are vegetarian. After a day taking on Rila National Park, your body will crave nothing more than a huge plate of panagyurski eggs, and a glass of organic Bulgarian wine or rakia (local brandy).

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This national park in Eastern Europe combines adventure and sustainability perfectly

A lovely ancient town in the lowlands between the Balkan and Rhodope mountains, Plovdiv is the perfect place to recharge for a couple of days if you are coming to Bulgaria for an adventure. And with a serious food and drink scene, and numerous historical and cultural sites to explore, it’s a great choice for a southern European city break in its own right. Until recently Plovdiv was almost unknown outside of Bulgaria, but received a tourism boost following its stint as European Capital of Culture in 2019. It's taken over 6000 years, but Europe’s oldest city is finally trending.

Day one

Morning

A great stay in Plovdiv starts in Kapana, the oldest part of town, and begins with a breakfast of palachinki (sweet or savoury pancakes) at Monkey House. Take a seat outside on the cobbles of ul Zlatarska, drink Plovdiv’s best coffee, and do some people-watching as the town wakes up. Afterwards, meander through the narrow streets a little more: the word kapana means “a trap”, but there is nothing sinister around the corners of this labyrinth – only more quirky hipster cafes and bakeries. Close by on ul Saborna is the City Gallery of Fine Arts, which displays sculptures, paintings and photographs by Bulgaria’s greatest artists.

Later in the morning, walk up to Plovdiv’s landmark, the 2nd-century Roman Amphitheatre on ul Tsar Ivaylo. Also known as the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis, the site is one of the best-preserved ancient theatres in the world. These days the 6000-seat auditorium hosts many of Plovdiv’s open-air events, from operas to cultural festivals. On the way back down from the amphitheatre, step inside the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa to listen to a Bulgarian Orthodox service.

Afternoon

For lunch, try a warm slice of banitsa (cheese-filled pastry), a plate of chushki burek (peppers stuffed with cheese), or Bulgaria’s ubiquitous shopska salad (a bowl of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onion and cheese). Grazhdansky Klubb on Stoyan Chalakov street is a local favourite. Then walk a couple of streets east of Kapana, to see the most lavish example of Plovdiv’s 19th-century architecture at Balabanov House. The house used to be a mansion for a succession of wealthy Bulgarian merchants; but since being restored in the 1970s the ground floor has been an exhibition of modern Bulgarian art. Close to Balabanov House is the equally beautiful Ethnographical Museum, with a flower garden in its courtyard.

When the sun goes down, go back to the heart of Kapana, where the tiny, intimate Pavaj restaurant on ul Zlatarska creates brilliant modern dishes from locally-sourced ingredients. Depending which nightcap you fancy, stay at Pavaj to sample their selection of rakia (Bulgaria’s delicious spirit made from grapes and other fruits), go to Vino Culture – also on ul Zlatarska – to taste some local wines, or try Plovdiv’s first craft beer bar Kotka i Mishka (Cat and Mouse) on ul Hristo Dyukmedzhiev, which serves four beers from its own brewery.

Day two

Morning

Plovdiv in Bulgaria is built on seven little hills, and you can’t visit without clambering up at least one of them. So before you set off, pop in to Klebarnitsa Kapana, one of Plovdiv’s divine bakeries, to load up on carbs (try kifli – pastries filled with marmalade) and fuel up with some more potent Bulgarian espresso.

Within the old town itself is a hill named Nebet Tepe. At the top of the mound are the Ruins of Eumolpias – the remnants of an ancient Thracian settlement called Eumolpias, dating from 5000 BCE. From Nebet Tepe there is also a pretty panoramic view of Plovdiv. At the bottom of the hill are the remains of another ancient ruin, the Stadium of Philippopolis. While you are in this part of town, step inside Atanas Krastev House on Chomakov street to see another lavish example of Bulgarian architecture. Mr Krastev himself was a local painter, as well as a champion of Plovdiv’s history and culture. His house and its beautiful garden now display his portraits and collections of abstract art.

Afternoon

For lunch, get a table at Smokini on ul Zlatarska. The restaurant serves brilliant Bulgarian dishes, soups and hearty salads, with a modern international twist. For the rest of the afternoon, take a final stroll around the town. It won't take long to climb up some more of the hills; Dzhambaz Tepe and Taksim Tepe are only 100m high, but both have lovely panoramic views of the valley beneath. After you climb down, step inside Plovdiv's oldest church, the Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena, and visit the 14th-century Dzhumaya Mosque.

At the end of your stay in Plovdiv, tear yourself away from the “trap” of the old town, and take the short walk back to the amphitheatre, to see the marble steps lit up under the stars.

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How to spend a perfect weekend in Plovdiv, Bulgaria

In a continent with many glamorous ski options, Bulgaria’s Bansko is distinguished by great value for money and a cheerful atmosphere all its own. Nestled between a medieval town and the Unesco-listed Pirin National Park are 75km of piste, rising to an altitude of over 2500m, and with reliable snow cover between December and April. In 2021, the Bulgarian Ski Federation and Bansko will host the Ski World Cup and the World Championship, as well as the male skiers in February 2023, reinforcing its importance in the eastern European ski scene. Here's what you need to know about skiing in Bansko.

Terrain and network

Bansko ski resort offers 18 ski slopes. This includes six blue and two orange for the beginners, while for the advanced skiers and boarders there are 11 red and two black pistes to choose from. Needless to say that the beginner’s slopes are way busier than those for advanced riders, especially when it comes to official holidays in Bulgaria, during the weekends and on a sunny day. The 14km "ski road" from the summit to the town is great for those finding their legs, although it gets choked with homebound skiers after 4.30pm, when last rides are called on the lifts.

Intermediate and beginner skiers and boarders will find an excellent piste network on the mountain, served by a mixture of uncovered chairs and draglifts. When the snow is plentiful (as it generally is between January and April) there are some good off-piste options for the more advanced; and even when it’s not, more than 90% of the runs are equipped with snow-making facilities. Riding off-piste is not recommended if you're not equipped for freeriding, as the avalanche risk is high right after snowfalls and in warmer weather. It's best to join an off-piste ski tour led by a certified local guide.

When not swaddled in cloud, the arresting beauty of the 400-sq-km Pirin National Park is a real highlight. It is home to between one quarter and one third of the country’s plant and bird species, includes dramatic peaks such as Mt Vihren (2914m) and Todorka (2746m), and even reputedly shelters wolves and bears. On clear days with good snow underfoot it’s hard to beat the combination of Bansko’s long, broad and varied runs, banks of stately fir trees, and views of the surrounding peaks and town below.

Gondola and chair lift access

While Borovets was once the largest resort in Bulgaria, Bansko now claims that honour. Accordingly, it can attract large crowds from Bulgaria, Romania, Greece, Russia, Turkey and the UK, putting infrastructure under significant pressure at peak times (such as the first week of February, when peak snowfall coincides with several national and school holidays in the region).

The resort’s major drawback – a significant bottleneck at the sole gondola leading from the town to the higher lift network – becomes apparent in these peak periods. A campaign to open a second gondola is underway, but may not overcome restrictions placed on further development in the national park. Canny skiers trying to avoid delays of up to an hour have tended to join the gondola queue on opening (8.15am), but word has spread and now the early morning queues can be the worst of the day. An alternative, in the form of free buses for those with lift passes, relieves only some of the pressure. If you own a seasonal ski pass, you’ll have VIP access to the gondola lift. In November, as preparation for the upcoming season, the prices of seasonal ski passes are reduced and you can save up to 200 lv. At the end of the ski season in April, the prices are always cheaper.

The uncovered chairs can also be problematic when winds are high, as the closure of the most exposed lifts (towards the summit) reproduces the crush experienced at the gondola. Basically, when the resort is full and the wind is up, expect to wait. And the sooner you adjust to Bulgarian queuing etiquette (if there’s a bare patch of snow in front of you, surge forward), the sooner you’ll be on your run.

Eating and après-ski

As can be expected, food and après-ski entertainment on the mountain comes at a premium; in fact, the discrepancy between what you’ll pay on the slopes and what you’ll pay in the town is greater in Bansko than in many other European resorts. But given that prices are so much lower across the board than those found in Austria, France or Switzerland, this isn’t necessarily such a drain. A Bulgarian-brand beer on the slopes costs around 6 lv, and a proper lunch will cost about 20–30 lv.

Once off the mountain, there’s a wonderful array of cheap eating and drinking options on offer: from tacky UK-themed pubs serving the lager-and-Sky-football crowd, to snug, atmospheric mehanas (traditional taverns) knocking out hearty local specialties in the tangled streets of the old town. Sex shops, outlets for Bulgarian crafts, half-built hotels, traditional timbered houses and grey-stone monasteries complete an atmosphere unique among European ski resorts.

Make it happen

Getting there Hotels and chalets can arrange transfers from Sofia, Plovdiv and Thessaloniki. Alternatively, you can organise your own transfer (try Bansko Express, Sofia Airport Taxis, or Ski Bansko Traventuria) or brave the Bulgarian bus or rail system.

Where to stay Bansko has many hotels (try Kempinski Hotel Grand Arena for luxe accommodation, or Hotel Avalon if you’re on a budget) and chalets.

Lifts and equipment There are lots of rental outlets in the higher reaches of the town; prices are mostly comparable (and service relaxed and efficient) across the board. Lift passes ( 400 lv/€205 for six days; student discount available) can be arranged in advance through your chalet or online via Ski Point. Passes can also be bought from the gondola at the foot of the mountain, but expect to queue.

Other Bulgarian resorts

Pamporovo Located in the Rodopi Mountains (240km from Sofia), Pamporovo is lower than Bansko, and offers a similar blend of beginner, intermediate and advanced terrain. Prices are also similar, while the network is slightly smaller and milder conditions are more common.

Chepelare Just 10km from Pamporovo, Chepelare is a smaller resort best suited to family ski holidays. With only 20km of piste and a small lift network, the low prices may not be enough to satisfy more advanced thrill-seekers. Mechi Chal, the longest ski slope in Bulgaria (almost 6km) is situated here, and it is certified by FIS for world skiing competitions.

Borovets Located in the Rila Mountains (72km from Sofia), Borovets is Bulgaria’s oldest ski resort, and was the largest before Bansko muscled in. Its 58km of piste range similar altitudes and difficulty levels to Bansko, and prices are comparable.

Vitosha Basic facilities and accommodation are compensated for by Vitosha ’s lower prices and its accessibility (it’s a mere 10km from Sofia).

Article first published in February 2015, and last updated by Stanislava Encheva in January 2020

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Skiing in Bulgaria: a beginner’s guide to Bansko

In the heart of Bulgaria, rivers thrash out saw-edged canyons and mountains spear the clouds. Hiking in this Balkan country, you can witness astonishing geological variety: blue-hued caves, peaks pushing almost 3000m high, and sandstone pyramids straight out of a Salvador Dalí painting.

So stretch your calves and free up some space on your camera’s memory card. This primer will set you trekking around Bulgaria towards five of its most rockin’ views.

1. Wander among Melnik’s sandstone pyramids

Bulgaria’s smallest town, just 20km north of the Greek border, has two claims to fame: its vineyards, and their dramatic setting among natural sandstone pyramids. Sipping on Melnik’s rich wine immeasurably enhances the view.

The town is an architectural reserve, dotted with churches, a ruined fortress and a 19th-century bathhouse. Even brand-new buildings follow the 18th-century style of Melnik’s historical mansions, with overhanging upper floors and pastel-coloured facades.

Equally lovely is the backdrop of undulating sandstone. Melnik’s rock formations ripple across 50 sq km. Sculpted by wind and frost, some of these fang-shaped towers reach as high as 100m. You can admire the dusty monoliths on casual rambles around the town, but Melnik’s surrounding hills offer the most spellbinding views.

Hike it: The 7km walk between Melnik and Rozhen Monastery has great views, but dedicated hikers see Melnik as the finishing line for multi-day treks in the Pirin Mountains. It’s roughly a six-hour descent from Pirin Hut to Melnik, after which you’ve truly earned a brimming glass of Melnik wine.

2. Discover revolutionary hideouts in Blue Rocks Nature Park

On the other side of the Stara Planina mountain range lies Sliven, gateway to boulder-strewn Blue Rocks Nature Park. Despite the name, you’d have to look hard to see more than a bluish haze here (thought to originate from a concentration of quartz). But the rocks’ secrets are more compelling than their hue: this area simmered with revolutionary spirit ahead of Bulgaria’s April 1876 Uprising.

The country was locked under Ottoman control for nearly 500 years, and thirst for revolution intensified towards the end of the 18th century. Sliven became a stronghold for freedom fighters, known as haidouks, who gathered in the Blue Rocks caves to whisper their plans to oust the Ottomans.

For some patriotic Bulgarians, trekking in Blue Rocks Nature Park is almost a pilgrimage. Listen closely and you can almost hear the haidouks’ muffled footsteps, and the clank of a musket being loaded...

Hike it: Take the chairlift to the top of Blue Rocks Nature Park and follow the pathway to the road before walking through the forest for about 500m. Heading downhill from here, you’ll see signposted trails to the caves (less than two hours’ circuit). If you still have energy, you can skip the return chairlift journey and walk down to the lower station (about an hour).

Read more: Skiing, hiking, climbing, rafting and more: finding adventure in Bulgaria

3. Admire Zabardo’s "Marvellous Bridges"

Wind, rain and the thundering Erkyupryia River have created some surprising sculptures in Bulgaria’s Rodopi Mountains. None is more magical than the natural arches near Zabardo village, a 30km drive north and west from skiing hub Chepelare.

Dubbed the " Marvellous Bridges", these three rock formations – perched at an altitude of 1450m – instantly impress. Of the two that are accessible to visitors, the larger reaches 45m high.

Framed by towering spruce trees, these spectacular spans have inevitably attracted myths and legends. One favourite yarn is that the bridges were blown out of the rock by a dragon, who was tricked by local shepherds into eating an ammunition-packed donkey. It’s a colourful image to ponder along trails that bypass caves and hundred-year-old evergreens.

Hike it: Take a meandering north–south trail between Orehovo and Zabardo villages, passing the Marvellous Bridges. The hike can take over eight hours in total, but it’s possible to split the journey by overnighting at the hikers’ hut near the bridges.

Read more: Skiing in Bulgaria: a beginner's guide to Bansko

4. Explore dramatic Emen Canyon

With its sharp cliffs and wild forest, Emen Canyon is a true highlight of Bulgaria’s central mountains. Barely 22km west of Bulgaria’s former royal capital, Veliko Târnovo, the Negovanka River continues to shape this majestic canyon, carving out limestone crags and bursting forth as occasional waterfalls.

From Emen Cave, scramble up a steep rocky trail to the clifftop. From here you can walk along the edge of these 90m-high cliffs, listening to the rushing water, before the path meanders into woodland. Half an hour along this tree-shaded path is a muddy descent to Momin Skok, a 10m-high waterfall where, according to local lore, three Bulgarian women drowned themselves to avoid capture by the Ottomans. In Bulgaria, it seems, dark history and natural beauty go hand in hand.

Hike it: A two-hour trail starts at the north end of Emen village, leading past the cave and along the cliffs. Follow the faded eco-trail signposts but avoid the poorly maintained wooden ladders.

5. Roam Martian landscapes in Stob

Sixty kilometres south of capital Sofia, the Rila Mountains conceal Bulgaria’s most sacred sight. Millennium-old Rila Monastery is considered the country’s soul; but beyond the billowing incense and black-clad monks, these valleys take on an unearthly quality.

Just 5km south of Rila, the horizon seems to blaze with burnt orange sandstone. Rocky steeples rise above the village of Stob, some as tall as 12m, while clefts in these reddish hills plunge 40m deep.

Just as strange as their appearance are the myths inspired by Stob’s pyramids. One popular folk tale explains these statuesque rocks as the petrified remains of a wedding procession that froze in astonishment after a guest stole a kiss from the bride-to-be. Gazing out at this auburn forest of stone, you might feel rather stunned yourself.

Hike it: A scenic hour-long eco-trail extends from the Stob pyramids car park (signposted in Stob village) to the highest vantage point over this Martian landscape. It’s an easy trail, though a little steep in places, with plenty of lookouts over the tapestry of farmland below.

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Bulgaria rocks: a hiker’s guide to five geological wonders

Beautiful Bulgaria is bulging with adventure, be it beavering through bountiful mountains or diving below the blue waters of the Black Sea.

Bulgaria may be more famous for corruption than its incredible natural environment, but that is slowly changing. From the Balkan Mountains, which run laterally through the centre of the country, to the alpine ranges of Rila and Pirin in the southwest, and the Rhodope Mountains further east, visitors will find mountains and thickly forested valleys roamed by lynx, wolves and bears. Bulgaria’s dynamic climate is perfect for paragliders, while on the coast the Black Sea is littered with exciting wrecks for divers to explore.

Skiing & snowboarding

With many peaks over 2500m, the Rila and Pirin mountains hold the country’s best resorts. Borovets and Pamporovo are popular with Bulgarians and visitors alike, but one of the up-and-coming spots is found at the foot of the Pirin mountains – the historic village of Bansko (there are ruins dating back to 100BC). Bansko has 14 lifts covering two mountains, glorious forested runs and reliable snow (it also has snow-making equipment). It is also one of the cheapest places you will find anywhere to try the ultimate skiing indulgence – heli-skiing.

Read more: Skiing in Bulgaria: a beginner's guide to Bansko

Hiking

There are boundless options for walkers visiting Bulgaria. One of the most dramatic and historic walks in the country is the three- to four-day trip from Mt Musala (2925m), Bulgaria’s highest peak, passing alpine meadows, rocky cirques and glacial lakes to end up at the World Heritage–listed Rila Monastery, which was founded in the 10th century and is one of Bulgaria’s most famous sights. In nearby Pirin, Vihren (2914m) is another classic target for peak-baggers. But there are excellent networks of trails throughout Bulgaria, and walkers can explore between remote villages, ending long days with a glass of rakia (grape brandy) in one of the country’s vast network of hizhas (hiking huts).

Read more: Bulgaria rocks: a hiker's guide to five geological wonders

Climbing & mountaineering

Climbing in Bulgaria is a revelatory experience; the country is dotted with numerous small but unique crags. Sport climbers should visit Prohodna Cave at Karlukovo, a bizarre limestone cavern with two entrances and two skylights in the roof known as the "Eyes of God". The area is not for beginners, with routes up to 8c+. Lakatnik, just north of the capital Sofia, is Bulgaria’s most popular climbing area with 250 sport routes. Traditional climbers and alpinists will find their own piece of paradise amid the superb granite towers and crags gracing the Rila and Pirin mountains.

Kayaking & rafting

While Bulgaria is riddled with rivers, many are too small for paddling – but there are a few exceptions. The Kamchia and Struma rivers are popular with guiding companies, and are excellent trips for beginners, while the tight, technical rapids of the Devinska and Buinovska are better suited to experienced paddlers. On the coast, sea kayaking trips are popular on the Black Sea, with plenty to explore, from beautiful beaches and towns to sea cliffs and Roman ruins.

Paragliding

A diverse landscape and dynamic weather patterns make Bulgaria one of Europe’s best paragliding (and hang-gliding) destinations. There are many launch sites in the mountains, with Sopot in the Balkan Mountains being one of the most popular spots. Good flying conditions can also be found on the coast.

Ultra running

With 5840m of ascent, the gruelling Tryavna Ultra takes trail runners 141km through the Balkan Mountains, past such highlights as the flying saucer-like brutalist Buzludzha Monument, built to celebrate communism then abandoned.

Diving

With marine history going back to antiquity, diving in the Black Sea is all about wrecks and historic sites. Divers can visit the remnants of the German WWII Black Sea fleet, from a battleship to minelayers and torpedo boats, or explore spooky sunken WWII Soviet submarines. North of Varna, there’s an old Roman port at 12m, with the treasure of Alexander the Great rumoured to be buried nearby.

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Skiing, hiking, climbing, rafting and more: finding adventure in Bulgaria

With sustainability and environmental concerns a larger part of the global conversation than ever before, nine European countries are calling for an aviation tax to counteract the negative impact of flying.

On Thursday, the Netherlands, Germany, France, Sweden, Italy, Belgium, Luxembourg, Denmark, and Bulgaria released a joint statement requesting that the European Commission take steps to adjust the price of plane tickets to compensate for the damage – and if an EU agreement can’t be reached by the end of 2020, the Netherlands stands prepared to impose a flight tax of its own.

As of now, the Dutch government says, international air traffic isn’t subject to excise duty or VAT, but the industry is responsible for some 2.5% of global CO2 emissions – one of the world’s biggest offenders. On top of that, the greenhouse gases that result from commercial flights are increasing even more rapidly than initially expected, up to a whopping 70% faster, according to one recent study.

“It’s not just the Netherlands, but a large group of European countries that think it’s unacceptable that air travel is not taxed at all, unlike travel by car, bus, and train,” State Secretary for Finance Menno Snel said in a press release. “By taking action now, we hope this important issue will take off in Europe too.”

Indeed, research indicates that passengers are willing and able to pay a bit more for flights with carbon fees attached – as long as said fee is labeled as a “carbon offset for aviation fuel production and import” and not a “carbon tax for airplane travel.” According to study co-author David Hardisty, that’s because “taxes feel like you’re charging people money for nothing, whereas an offset is the idea that, ‘Sure we’re paying, but we kind of have an idea where that payment is going, to make the environment better,’ which is what people want.”

Can an aviation tax help combat climate change? 9 European countries want to try

Once upon a time everyone had a wilderness on their doorstep, but, as the world industrialised, wildlife was pushed to the fringes and many people started to lose their connection to the natural world. The good news is that the rewilding movement is trying to reverse this trend by restoring plundered ecosystems or at the very least giving them space to restore naturally. The movement is particularly strong in Europe, where species such as bison, beavers and wolves are now returning to regions they were once driven out of. Below are some of the continent’s most exciting rewilding sites, where travellers can rediscover nature’s enchanting spirit.

1. Knepp, England

Knepp was an intensive farm devoid of wildlife, but then its owners decided to do something radical: nothing. They simply let wildlife reclaim the land and today this savannah-like estate in West Sussex has become a hotbed of biodiversity, supporting species that have long since vanished from other parts of the UK, including the turtle dove, nightingale and cuckoo. It's still a working farm (there are free-roaming cows and pigs), but nowadays it's better known for its wildlife safaris and glamping.

2. River Tay, Scotland

The return of the beaver to Scotland was controversial with farmers claiming the tree-gnawing critters damaged their land. But scientists reckon their return to the River Tay in Perthshire has been a boon for biodiversity and helped reduce flooding. As well as working the woods, beavers have also engineered new opportunities for tourism; visitors can take part in beaver canoe safaris and walking tours, which give tourists the opportunity to spy ospreys, red squirrels and red deer as well.

3. Danube Delta, Ukraine/Romania/Moldova

The largest wetland in Europe, the Danube Delta is already a Unesco World Heritage Site that’s revered for its birdlife. Now the region is being further enhanced by Rewilding Europe, which has reintroduced water buffalo and konik horses to restore the natural balance (the creatures will graze and fertilise the land). It is also hoped the wild animals will boost visitor numbers to the region, which straddles the border between Ukraine, Romania and Moldova.

4. Carpathian Mountains, Romania

Bison are back in Romania's Carpathian Mountains following another successful reintroduction programme by Rewilding Europe. Dozens of the beasts now roam the region, creating new opportunities for other species to thrive thanks to their voracious grazing. This isn’t just a boon for nature, though; locals are also benefiting from bison-related tourism opportunities. It’s not just bison to look out for; the Carpathian Mountains are also home to wolves, lynx and bears.

5. Coa Valley, Portugal

Rural depopulation has left swathes of Portugal ’s Coa Valley ripe for rewilding. And as livestock and agriculture move out of the plains, conservationists are trying to reintroduce native grazers, such as bulls and horses, to restore the landscapes and make them more habitable for species like the Iberian lynx. A number of African-style camps (courtesy of the European Safari Company) have been set up for tourists looking to chart the progress of this increasingly feral region, which is also home to ancient cave paintings.

6. Lappland, Sweden

Dubbed "Europe's Alaska", Swedish Lappland is already pretty wild with its glistening glaciers, Sami reindeer herders and wild wolves. But a number of rewilding projects are underway to make it more untamed, including river restoration to reverse damaging anthropological activities. The organisation, Rewilding Lapland, is also fighting to save old-growth forests from mining and other threats. To help it do this, the organisation has collaborated with Sami communities to provide wildlife-watching safaris and eco-camping opportunities.

7. Rodopi Mountains, Bulgaria

One of Rewilding Europe's flagship projects is happening in Bulgaria's Rodopi Mountains, where red deer and fallow deer are being released to "close the circle of life" – or, in other words, provide food for the region's struggling European vultures. Steppes and forests are also being restored to their former glory in the mountains, where, as well as hiking and wildlife watching, visitors can go skiing, marvel at mad rock formations and explore traditional Bulgarian villages.

8. Lusatia, Germany

Once the black heart of East Germany 's coal industry, Lusatia’s defunct coal pits are being turned into the largest artificial lake district in Europe. Many of the lakes are for recreation, but some have been set aside for nature. It’s not all water; Lusatia ’s post-industrial landscapes also feature savannah-like plains, some of which have been left for nature to reclaim. In a remarkable reversal of fortunes, you can now hear wolves howling from the old pits – a battle cry from nature as it reclaims the land. The region could be considered a metaphor for humanity’s necessary, but difficult, transition from fossil-fuel dependency to zero-carbon future.

You might also like:

How to have a sustainable visit to the Great Barrier Reef
Sustainable travel: 6 ways to make a positive impact on your next trip
Into the green: 8 destinations for an eco-friendly escape

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Back to nature: 8 rewilding projects you can visit in Europe 

When European city-hopping is mentioned, most travellers imagine the alluring charms of Paris, Rome or London. But go off the beaten track and explore Bulgaria ’s vibrant and youthful capital Sofia, and you’ll be surprised by its rocking cultural scene, heartwarming food and chilled-out vibe. Whether you want to marvel at historic sights, trek on mountain slopes or enjoy a glass of world-class wine, Sofia offers experiences that are both authentic and affordable. Here are the best things to do in Sofia.

Explore historic treasures

Every history buff will be happy to land in Sofia. A leisurely stroll around the city centre lets the visitor uncover Bulgaria’s diverse layers of history, mixing up Roman ruins and Soviet architecture, as well as Ottoman and Byzantine religious and cultural influences.

Start by visiting one of the world’s biggest Orthodox churches and a major Bulgarian symbol – the stunning neo-Byzantine Aleksander Nevski Cathedral. Famous for its gold-laden domes, the church commemorates the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died for Bulgaria’s independence during the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78).

If you prefer searching for Thracian gold and Roman artefacts, definitely spend a day at the National Museum of History. Relax in its spacious gardens, while taking a photo with the Russian MiG fighters’ statues that are erected there. For an insight into Bulgaria’s decades behind the Iron Curtain, visit the Museum of Socialist Art to check out its quirky collection of statues, paintings and propaganda movies.

Admire the vibrant arts scene

Get to the heart of Bulgarian art by browsing the National Gallery Quadrat 500. This is where you can admire the country’s largest collection of medieval paintings as well as impressive examples of contemporary art. Another art venue worth popping into is the Sofia City Art Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions of Bulgarian paintings and sculpture.

Lovers of opera and ballet can indulge in beloved classics at the Sofia Opera and Ballet. You can’t go wrong with its range of deeply moving, world-class performances (with ticket prices starting from only 10 euros). Fans of classical music can also opt for a night out at the excellent Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra. Head to Ivan Vazov National Theatre for Bulgarian drama.

Taste the Balkan cuisine

Food is deeply ingrained in Bulgarian culture – it’s a way to enjoy life and connect with others. To start the day like a local, have a bite of a freshly baked banitsa. It’s hard to find a more traditional breakfast than this warm and buttery pastry made of special dough sheets with fillings like white cheese (the absolute classic), spinach and cheese, cinnamon-sprinkled apples and sugary pumpkin. Banitsa can be found pretty much everywhere, but some of the trendiest local bakeries include Hlebar, Furna and Cafe Ma Baker.

Sampling Sofia: best new food and drink spots

At lunchtime, get cozy at one of the restaurants offering local specialities: grilled meat, shopska salad (a fresh mix of tomatoes, cucumbers and white cheese) and rakia (Bulgaria’s national spirit – beware, it’s strong!).  Save the evening for a glass of locally produced wine (the red variety mavrud, in particular, is excellent), juicy steaks and a heavenly Turkish-influenced dessert. Vegans and vegetarians won’t be disappointed either – a range of vegan places have shaped the local taste in recent years.

Shtastliveca is ideal for an affordable traditional dinner with a modern twist (vegetarian and vegan options included), Fabrika Daga is famous for its excellent brunches, while Soul Kitchen offers mainly vegan and raw food options. For top-quality wine and cocktails, visit One More Bar.

Go shopping for authentic Bulgarian goods

Thinking of your next shopping trip, you’re more likely to plan a weekend in Italy than in Bulgaria. While it’s true that Sofia is no big fashion capital, it has its fair share of small boutiques and designer clothing that come at more affordable prices than in western Europe. But it’s safe to say that shopping in Sofia stretches far beyond the famous brands.

Visitors can take home authentic pieces of the country’s spirit – everything from organic rose-oil cosmetics (Bulgaria is the world’s leading producer of rose oil) and Bulgarian raspberry wines to white cheese and spices. You’ll find a good selection of products at Rose of Bulgaria and Vino Orenda stores. The best place to stock up on fresh and cheap local foods is the Ladies’ Market (beware of pickpockets).

Escape to nature in nearby forests and mountains

Nestled in the foothills of the sprawling Vitosha Nature Park, Sofia is just a 10km drive from the pleasant shades of its pine and oak forests. In spring and summer, the mountain is popular for its trekking routes leading to the nearby villages, as well as the soul-stirring peak Cherni Vrâh (literally "Black Peak").

One of the spots to begin your hike is Zlatnite Mostove (meaning "Golden Bridges"). It’s an extraordinary geological phenomenon that looks like a stone river running down a slope from around 1700m to 1350m. Nature lovers may also enjoy trekking to the 25m-high Boyana waterfall that lures with its crystal-clear waters.

When winters are snowy, Mt Vitosha offers accessible and cheap ski rides, but bear in mind that the facilities here are basic in comparison to big Bulgarian resorts like Bansko. Non-skiers can catch the Simeonovo gondola (accessible via bus lines 111, 122 and 123) and enjoy a refreshing walk in the woods.

Article first published February 2018, and last updated October 2019

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Places in and around Bulgaria

Plovdiv & Southern Mountains

Bulgaria

Region

Veliko Târnovo & Central Mountains

Bulgaria

Region

Black Sea Coast

Bulgaria

Region

Sofia

Bulgaria

City