The Amazon

The remarkable Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reserve has pristine rainforest, abundant animal life and fairly easy access, located just 1½ hours by boat from Tefé, with its reliable air and boat service. The primary lodge in the reserve runs outstanding tours and has comfortable accommodations – it's one of the Amazon's best ecotourism operations.

This newly minted extractive reserve is an outstanding place to immerse yourself in the best the Amazon has to offer, with excellent wildlife-watching – if you're here to see the Amazon in its pristine state, this place should be high on your list. The reserve extends north from the Rio Negro and is most easily reached from Novo Airão.

If you came to the Amazon to see primary rainforest, look no further than the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós. Wildlife is a possibility – from birds to primates and even the (very) occasional jaguar – but it's the sense of deep forest and some of the largest trees anywhere that are the real drawcards here. Access is from either Santarém or Alter do Chão.

The floodplains east and southeast of Santarém are among the Amazon's most rewarding excursions. Flooded for much of the year, the plains are home to fabulous birdlife (including toucans and macaws), pink dolphins, howler monkeys, sloths and anacondas. The sunrise and sunset views are pure magic and there's a real sense of tranquility out here. Take an overnight boat trip, go canoeing through the flooded forest and relax far from the tourist hordes. Gil Serique organizes especially enjoyable excursions here.

Alter do Chão, 33km west of Santarém, is an appealing, languid riverside town that's popular with visitors from Santarém on weekends and during holiday periods. It's best known for its Ilha do Amor (Island of Love), a picturesque island ringed by a white-sand beach directly in front of town.

But Alter do Chão is much more than a beach town. The lagoon it fronts (Lago Verde) can be explored by canoe or stand-up paddle board. It's also the departure point for boat tours to nearby forest reserves and isolated communities, and has one of the best indigenous art stores in the Amazon region.

The eastern gateway to the Amazon region and a destination in its own right, Belém is worth at least a couple of days of your life. It's a rewarding city, with streets and parks shaded by mango trees, the pastel facades of once-decadent mansions now fading in the tropical sun, as well as a number of fascinating museums, pungent markets and decent restaurant-bars. It's also a launchpad for overnight trips to Algodoal and Ilha de Marajó, both appealing coastal destinations.

Manaus is the Amazon’s largest city, an incongruous urban metropolis in the middle of the jungle and a major port for seafaring vessels that’s 1500km from the ocean. The Amazonian rainforest has a population density half that of Mongolia, but the journey there invariably begins in (or passes through) this gritty, bustling city. Don’t be surprised if you feel a little out of whack.

Manaus is no architectural gem, but does have some genuinely rewarding sights, including a leafy zoo and an interesting beach-and-museum combo. It’s a place to stock up on anything you forgot to pack, make reservations and begin your journey out into the jungle, or refill your tank with beer and internet after a week in the forest.

Another bit of advice: don't get stuck here! Manaus is best enjoyed as a starting point for your Amazon adventure, not the end of your road into the Amazon.

To get a taste of the Amazon in all its remote and wild glory usually means a multiday excursion from Manaus – the rainforest surrounding the Amazon's largest city long ago disappeared under the weight of human settlements and resource extraction. All of which is what makes the Rio Urubu such a wonderful surprise.

Just two hours by road from Manaus (although you'll need additional boat journeys to reach the lodges), the Rio Urubu is largely mosquito-free and has remarkably intact rainforest ecosystems with plentiful wildlife – we saw four species of monkey, a tayra (a large member of the weasel family), an anteater and stunning birdlife in just one day of exploring. Activities such as jungle hikes, canoe trips through dense flooded forest, visits to local communities, fishing and overnight forest camping are all possible, although what's on offer varies a little with the time of year and changing water levels.

Two operators in particular offer tours here. Amazonas Indian Turismo has a rustic lodge in the area, while Amazon Antonio Jungle Tours has two excellent places to stay.

Amazon Antonio's Lodge Antonio Gomes, who also runs Amazon Antonio Jungle Tours, has built a splendid lodge on the mosquito-free banks of the Rio Urubu, surrounded by a pristine tract of riverine forest rich in wildlife and tall trees. There's a hammock dorm, a bunk-bed dorm and a range of wooden chalets and bungalows. The rooms are outstanding, especially the chalets with expansive terrace and hammocks. The communal dining area is open-sided and overlooks the river, while the three-story observation tower has glorious views, especially at sunset. Activities include fishing, jungle hikes, canoe trips and overnight camping.

Pousada Cumaru This small pousada does get more mosquitoes than the lodges upriver, but it's still a terrific choice. Simple but large wooden rooms with shared bathrooms and balconies overlook the river, and it offers a lovely dining area and meals cooked by a local family. It's run by Amazon Antonio Jungle Tours and a visit here can be combined with a visit to their other lodge upriver. All the usual activities are available, and you'll also emerge from the narrow river channels into the wide Amazon itself.

Rivers are roads in Amazonia, and the slow pace of a boat trip is a uniquely Amazonian experience: you'll be sleeping in a hammock, watching the river, forest and local life glide by. But boat trips can also be tedious, with day after day of the same food, the same scenery, and the same ear-splitting music and drunken banter on the top deck.

For most people, two or three days is enough to get the experience without tiring of it. Instead of taking one of the marathon five- or six-day trips (such as Belém to Manaus, or Manaus to Tabatinga), consider stopping off halfway, doing some fun stuff, and then either continuing or even flying the rest. In many cases, boat and plane tickets cost the same.

• You’ll need to bring your own hammock (R$15 to R$50) and some rope to attach it. A sheet or sleep sack is nice if the temperature drops.
• Your gear probably won’t get wet, but play it safe by keeping it in a large plastic bag, tied at the top. This also helps keep prying fingers out of any side-pockets.
• Get to the boat six to eight hours early to secure a good hammock spot. By departure time, the hammock areas may be jammed – you may end up with fellow passengers swinging above or beneath you!
• Most boats have three decks. The top deck is for hanging out, while the middle and lower ones are for hammocks. The middle deck is definitely better, since the engine is on the first. Try to get a spot away from the toilets (in case they smell) and the buffet area (crowded and noisy during mealtimes). A porter may offer to help you pick a spot and tie up your hammock, a service that’s well worth the R$5 tip that’s expected. A few boats have air-con or women-only hammock areas – ask when you buy your ticket.
• Theft isn’t rampant, but you should take common-sense precautions, like locking your zippers and knotting all drawstrings. Don’t leave valuables unattended and be especially alert when the boat stops in port. Be friendly with the passengers around you, as they can keep an eye on your gear. The captain may stow your bag in a secure area on request, though it may be hard to access mid-trip.
• Most boats have a few camarotes (cabins with two to four bunks and a fan) and suites, with air-con and bathrooms. The advantage is you sleep in a bed instead of a hammock, can lock up your gear, and usually get better food. The disadvantage is you miss out on the comradeship (and bragging rights) that come from sleeping in a hammock alongside everyone else. If you book a cabin or suite, avoid those on the top deck, where there’s blasting music.
• Buffet-style meals may or may not be included in the fare. Either way, consider skipping them – you really don’t want the runs during a boat trip. Instead, order made-to-order burgers and sandwiches at the kitchen on the upper deck, and pack plenty of food that travels well, such as apples, nuts and energy bars.
• Bring plenty of water and extra toilet paper.