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The Amazon
The Amazon is itself a place of near-mythical status. What traveler drawn to the wild places of the planet hasn't imagined a trip to the Amazon, not only to admire the towering trees, secretive wildlife and awesome river, but to enter, in a real sense, the very life spring of the planet? Expecting a Discovery Channel–like experience (jaguars in every tree, anacondas on every shore) is a recipe for disappointment. In fact, the Amazon’s quintessential experiences are more sublime than superlative: canoeing through a flooded forest, dozing in a hammock on a boat chugging upriver, waking to the otherworldly cry of howler monkeys. On a river whose size is legendary, it’s actually the little things that make it special. Give it some time, and the Amazon is all this and more.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Amazon.
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Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi
This newly minted extractive reserve is an outstanding place to immerse yourself in the best the Amazon has to offer, with excellent wildlife-watching – if you're here to see the Amazon in its pristine state, this place should be high on your list. The reserve extends north from the Rio Negro and is most easily reached from Novo Airão. The forest here is immaculate, and teeming with birds and animals. Monkeys commonly seen include howler, capuchin, squirrel and saki, as well as marmosets and tamarins. Macaws and toucans also lead a star-studded cast of birdlife. On June 5, 2018, after a long and difficult battle, the area was granted status as an 'extractive reserve' ( reserva extratavista or RESEX). Extractive reserves, first imagined by Chico Mendes, allow locals to live inside the reserve and take what they need (wood, rubber, fish) for subsistence, but not for commercial purposes. No more than 500 people live here, and it remains one of the most pristine corners of the Amazon. Most tours here are handled by the excellent Visit Amazonia, based in Novo Airão. A week is the recommended minimum stay. Other groups offering tours here include Expedição Katerre and Amazonia Expeditions.
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Floresta Nacional do Tapajós
If you came to the Amazon to see primary rainforest, look no further than the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós. Wildlife is a possibility – from birds to primates and even the (very) occasional jaguar – but it's the sense of deep forest and some of the largest trees anywhere that are the real drawcards here. Access is from either Santarém or Alter do Chão. All three riverside villages (Maguarí, Jamaraquá and São Domingo) have well-maintained forest trails, although the primary rainforest (as opposed to the degraded secondary rainforest), and hence the really big trees, is a two-and-a-half-hour hike away, inland from the river. To experience the primary rainforest, we recommend the tours by Gil Serique, whose family once lived in the forest.
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Jardim Botânico Adolpho Ducke
Spanning over 100 sq km, this 'garden' is actually the world’s largest urban forest. There's a network of five short trails (guides and closed shoes required, two to three hours, free with admission) and an open-air museum that includes rotating exhibits on Amazonian flora and fauna and a spectacular 42-meter-high observation tower. It's busier on weekends and free on Tuesday. Comfortable shuttles (92 99286-9888, R$30 roundtrip, 45 minutes) leave from outside the tourist office (CAT) at 9am and 4pm. Otherwise, catch Bus 676 (R$3, one hour) from Praça da Matriz.
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Serra do Aracá State Park
Although this state park was established in 1990 to preserve the unique canyons carved out by the Rio Aracá, it wasn't until recently that the massive waterfall at its heart was officially measured and certified. Turns out, Cachoeira do El Dorado is Brazil's highest waterfall, plunging 353m over a sandstone cliff into a mist-swept pool below. Adventure tours to the waterfall take a minimum of 10 days and cost around R$250 to R$350 per person per day. Ask at Hostel Barcelos about arranging a trip; at least one month advance planning is required.
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Lago Maicá
The floodplains east and southeast of Santarém are among the Amazon's most rewarding excursions. Flooded for much of the year, the plains are home to fabulous birdlife (including toucans and macaws), pink dolphins, howler monkeys, sloths and anacondas. The sunrise and sunset views are pure magic and there's a real sense of tranquility out here. Take an overnight boat trip, go canoeing through the flooded forest and relax far from the tourist hordes. Gil Serique organizes especially enjoyable excursions here.
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Teatro Amazonas
This gorgeous theater was built at the height of the rubber boom, using European designers, decorators and even raw materials. The original driveway was Brazilian, though, made of Amazonian rubber to soften the clatter of late-arriving carriages. The theater's performance schedule includes an excellent opera festival in April and May. Hour-long guided tours offer an up-close look at the theater's opulent construction.
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Mercado Ver-o-Peso
The name of this waterfront market, with its iconic four-turreted structure at its southwestern end, comes from colonial times, when the Portuguese would ver o peso (check the weight) of merchandise in order to impose taxes. The display of fruit, animals, medicinal plants and more is fascinating; go early to see fishing boats unloading their catch. Some stands sell souvenirs, but be alert for pickpockets and avoid going after 5pm.
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Encontro das Águas
Just beyond Manaus, the warm dark Rio Negro pours into the cool creamy Rio Solimões, but because of differences in temperature, speed and density, their waters don't mix, instead flowing side by side for several kilometers. The bi-color phenomenon occurs throughout the Amazon, but nowhere as dramatically as here. Day trips always include a stop here, and many tour operators at least pass by en route to their lodges. Never disappoints.
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Estação das Docas
An ambitious renovation project converted three down-at-heel riverfront warehouses into a popular gathering spot, with restaurants, bars, shops and even an art-house theater. There are river views and displays about Belém's history, plus a post office and numerous ATMs. Enjoy live music most nights, performed from a moving platform in the rafters, rolling slowly the length of the dining area.
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