Rio de Janeiro

Get plenty of sleep before you board the plane to Rio, because Carnaval means nonstop revelry until Ash Wednesday (sort of) brings it all to a close. With nearly 500 street parties happening in every corner of town, you will not lack for options. For the full experience, join a samba school and parade amid pounding drum corps and mechanized smoke-breathing dragons before thousands of roaring fans in the Sambódromo. Or assemble a costume and hit one of the Carnaval balls around town. The buildup starts weeks in advance.

The Copacabana experience is about many things: rising early and going for a run along the sands; playing in the waves on a sun-drenched afternoon; or whiling away the evening over cocktails and appetizers at a beachfront kiosk. Regardless, you'll probably notice the incredibly seductive view: 4km of wide, curving sands framed by Rio's ubiquitous green peaks. Head uphill for even better views; rooftop bars and forts at either end of the beach make great settings for taking it all in.

Some will tell you to arrive around sunset for the best views from this absurd confection of a mountain. But in truth, no matter what time you come, you're unlikely to look at Rio in the same way again. From up here on Sugarloaf Mountain the landscape is one of undulating green hills and golden beaches lapped by blue sea, with rows of skyscrapers sprouting along the shore. The ride up on an all-glass aerial tram is good fun, too. Adventurous visitors can rock climb their way to the summit.

This enchanting beachfront attracts a wide mix of cariocas (Rio residents). Different crowds – surfers, volleyballers, bohemians, muscle boys – congregate at each posto (section), including famous posto 9, where Ipanema's young and beautiful frolic. The principal activities of the day are people-watching, surf-side walks and sunset-watching – best from Arpoador, at Ipanema's east end. You can also eat and drink on the sand. Roaming vendors will come to you, and barracas (beach stalls) will set you up with chairs, umbrellas and caipirinhas. All you need do is show up.

The open-armed savior has stood atop his lofty perch (710m-high Corcovado), gazing peacefully over Rio, since 1931. The statue of Christ the Redeemer is a remarkable work of artistry, but most people don't come up here to admire the art deco design. They come for the mesmerizing panorama, a combination of tropical rainforest, beaches, islands, ocean, bay and verdant peaks, that surrounds this unlikely metropolis. There are various ways to reach the top, including a memorable (and steep!) ascent on a cog train.

The Lapa Arches form the gateway to Rio’s most animated nightlife. Pass through the 64m-high portal and stroll the packed, bar-lined streets while the rhythms of samba spill out of 19th-century facades. While there are drinks (curbside beer and caipirinha vendors) and music (impromptu jam sessions) all around, venture inside an old-school dance hall to see the city at its most dynamic. From the band on stage comes the rhythms of samba – one of the world’s most infectious beats. Grab a partner and join the mayhem on the dance floor.

Overlooking downtown Rio, the hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa – where people live in houses rather than high-rises – has a village-like vibe. Its aging 19th-century mansions and bohemian spirit offer a dramatic counterpoint to Rio's better-known seaside persona. Here you’ll find old-school bars, art-loving B&Bs and lush backyards where marmosets often roam, with magical views over downtown and the bay. The downside: it’s still rough around the edges. But the locals and expats who live here wouldn’t have it any other way.

'Saltwater lagoon' may not be the first thing you think of when you hear the words 'Rio de Janeiro,' but this picturesque body of water plays a key role in the city's psyche. By day cariocas cycle, jog and stroll the 7km path that loops around it. At nightfall a different crowd arrives to eat and drink in the open-air kiosks scattered along the shore. In December Lagoa is home to a massive floating Christmas tree, its glittering lights and nightly displays pure magic for kids and adults alike.

New York has Central Park; Rio has the Floresta da Tijuca, a vast swath of rainforest with hiking trails, sparkling waterfalls and abundant greenery. There are a number of fine walks, as well as climbs up rocky 900m peaks, where rewarding views await. If you prefer flying to walking, take a hang-gliding flight from Pedra Bonita inside the Tijuca boundaries for a magnificent (if somewhat terrifying) view over Rio's wondrously green backyard.

Rio's famous stadium, Maracanã, is hallowed ground among Brazilians. It has been the site of both triumph (Pelé's 1000th goal) and catastrophe (losing to Uruguay in the final match of the 1950 World Cup). Games here are simply spectacular, with tens of thousands of cheering fans sending up an earth-shaking roar when the home team (and Rio has four of them) scores. Whether or not you're a football fan, don't pass up the chance to see a game inside this historic arena.