Michael Heffernan

Minas Gerais

For those seeking a tangible sense of Brazilian history, no state compares with Minas Gerais. The tortuous cobblestone streets and baroque monuments of colonial mining towns like Ouro Preto, Tiradentes and Diamantina have seen it all, from the horrors of enslaved people to the fervor of Brazil's 18th-century independence movement.

Minas is also a place of magnificent natural wonders. The Serra do Espinhaço, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve running the length of the state, is just one of many refuges providing exhilarating outdoor recreation opportunities and critical habitat for endangered species from the maned wolf to the woolly spider monkey.

Add to this the cosmopolitan charms of Belo Horizonte, the fabulous flavors of comida mineira (the region's characteristic cuisine, cooked over a wood-fired stove), the intoxicating effects of Brazil's best cachaça (sugarcane alcohol) and the locals’ legendary hospitality, and it's hard to resist Minas’ seductive spell.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Minas Gerais.

Museum
Instituto de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim
The world's largest open-air contemporary art museum, and greater Belo Horizonte's standout attraction, this sprawling, world-class complex of gardens dotted with 23 modern art galleries and numerous outdoor sculptures lies 50km west of the city, near Brumadinho. Much of the international artwork on view is monumental in size, with galleries custom-built to display it. The constantly expanding gardens has over 4000 different species of plants (including one of the world's most extensive collections of palm trees) and lakes with swans.
Sculpture
The Prophets
Already an old man, sick and crippled, Aleijadinho sculpted The Prophets between 1800 and 1805. Symmetrically placed in front of the Basílica do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, each of the 12 Old Testament figures was carved from one or two blocks of soapstone. Each carries a message in Latin: some are hopeful prophecies, others warn of the end of the world.
Distillery
Mazuma Mineira
If you've ever wondered how cachaça (Brazil's famous sugarcane alcohol) is made, this is a perfect place to learn. This small-scale alambique (distillery) with a focus on sustainable production offers free guided tours demonstrating every stage of the process, from harvesting and milling of sugarcane, to filtering and separation of the juice, to distillation at high heat in elegant copper cooling towers, to aging in casks of oak, Brazil nut or local pink jequitibá wood. It's located 7km northeast of Tiradentes.
National Park
Parque Nacional da Serra do Cipó – Portaria Areias
The park's main entrance, south of Santana do Riacho, serves as the gateway to several hiking destinations. Two especially popular day trips are the 16km round trip from headquarters to the 70m waterfall called Cachoeira da Farofa, and the 24km round trip to Cânion da Bandeirinha, an 80m-deep gorge. Shorter hikes include the 4km round trip to the Mirante do Bem panoramic viewpoint and the family-friendly Circuito das Lagoas, which affords swimming opportunities at the confluence of the Rios Bocaina and Mascate.
Park
Parque Estadual Serra do Intendente
This remote state park, 19km west of Conceição do Mato Dentro at the end of a rugged dirt road, preserves a 13,500-hectare chunk of backcountry within Unesco's Serra do Espinhaço Biosphere Reserve. The park's centerpiece is Cachoeira Tabuleiro, Brazil's third-highest waterfall (273m). From the park entrance, it's a 1½-hour hike, with steep staircases and a sustained spell of boulder-hopping along the river, to reach the natural swimming pool at the base of the falls.
Park
Estação Biológica de Caratinga
This seriously off-the-beaten-track nature reserve offers the exceptional opportunity to observe the Americas' largest primate and one of its most endangered species – the northern muriqui – in the wild. Call or email ahead to arrange a guided visit. Expect minimal infrastructure – this is first and foremost a biological research station – and wear comfortable, sturdy shoes and clothing in preparation for an unpredictable day of scrambling through the forest in search of these fascinating, docile creatures.
Arts Center
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
Inaugurated in late 2013, this magnificent palace on Praça da LIberdade is one of Belo Horizonte's cultural gems. The vast 3rd-floor gallery hosts special exhibitions that rotate every couple of months, while the downstairs is dedicated to free or low-cost arts events including film, theater and dance; pick up a schedule on-site. The interior courtyard makes for a pleasant break any time of day with its cafes, stained-glass windows and retractable roof.
Church
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
This exquisite 1774 baroque church, fronted by a palm-shaded, lyre-shaped plaza, is home to two Aleijadinho sculptures (second altar to the left) and one of Minas' finest facades, based on Aleijadinho’s design. Out back, arrows lead to politician Tancredo Neves' grave, a pilgrimage site for Brazilians. The local Ribeiro Bastos orchestra and choir perform sacred baroque music at 9:15am Sunday.
Church
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
This exquisite church is Brazil's most important piece of colonial art, after Aleijadinho’s masterpiece The Prophets in Congonhas. Its entire exterior was carved by Aleijadinho himself, from the soapstone medallion to the cannon waterspouts to the Franciscan two-bar cross. The interior was painted by Aleijadinho’s long-term partner, Manuel da Costa Ataíde.