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Michael Heffernan

Minas Gerais

For those seeking a tangible sense of Brazilian history, no state compares with Minas Gerais. The tortuous cobblestone streets and baroque monuments of colonial mining towns like Ouro Preto, Tiradentes and Diamantina have seen it all, from the horrors of enslaved people to the fervor of Brazil's 18th-century independence movement.

Minas is also a place of magnificent natural wonders. The Serra do Espinhaço, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve running the length of the state, is just one of many refuges providing exhilarating outdoor recreation opportunities and critical habitat for endangered species from the maned wolf to the woolly spider monkey.

Add to this the cosmopolitan charms of Belo Horizonte, the fabulous flavors of comida mineira (the region's characteristic cuisine, cooked over a wood-fired stove), the intoxicating effects of Brazil's best cachaça (sugarcane alcohol) and the locals’ legendary hospitality, and it's hard to resist Minas’ seductive spell.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Minas Gerais.

  • See

    Instituto de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim

    The world's largest open-air contemporary art museum, and greater Belo Horizonte's standout attraction, this sprawling, world-class complex of gardens dotted with 23 modern art galleries and numerous outdoor sculptures lies 50km west of the city, near Brumadinho. Much of the international artwork on view is monumental in size, with galleries custom-built to display it. The constantly expanding gardens has over 4000 different species of plants (including one of the world's most extensive collections of palm trees) and lakes with swans. You can wander at will, or attend daily scheduled programs led by guides trained in visual arts and natural science. Ten on-site eateries serve everything from hot dogs to gourmet international fare. Wednesday's a great day to visit, as the museum is free; weekends can get crowded, but offer a wider range of guided tours. From Tuesday through Sunday Saritur runs direct buses (R$74 round trip, 1½ hours each way) from Belo Horizonte to Inhotim at 8:15am, returning at 4:30pm weekdays, 5:30pm Saturday and Sunday.

  • See

    Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil

    Inaugurated in late 2013, this magnificent palace on Praça da LIberdade is one of Belo Horizonte's cultural gems. The vast 3rd-floor gallery hosts special exhibitions that rotate every couple of months, while the downstairs is dedicated to free or low-cost arts events including film, theater and dance; pick up a schedule on-site. The interior courtyard makes for a pleasant break any time of day with its cafes, stained-glass windows and retractable roof.

  • See

    Memorial Minas Gerais – Vale

    Praça da Liberdade's standout cultural attraction, this supremely cool contemporary museum chronicles Minas culture from the 17th to 21st centuries via three floors of cutting-edge interactive galleries and audiovisual installations.

  • See

    Mineirão & Museu Brasileiro do Futebol

    An obligatory stop for football fans, Belo Horizonte's legendary 65,000-seat stadium was completely renovated for the 2014 FIFA World Cup, incorporating a brand-new football museum, esplanade and LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) certified energy conservation enhancements. One-hour guided tours take in the locker rooms, showers, press room, stands and revamped playing field, with occasional wistful comments about Brazil's heartbreaking 7–1 World Cup loss to Germany here. Combined tickets include a self-guided museum visit, with exhibits covering the stadium's construction, famous games and players, and football history. The stadium and museum are 10km north of Centro in Pampulha; take bus 5106 (R$3.40, 30 minutes) from Praça da Liberdade.

  • See

    Gruta da Lapinha

    About 50km north of Belo Horizonte, this cave's highlight is the Véu de Noiva, a crystal formation in the shape of a bride’s veil. With your own vehicle, the cave is an hour's drive north of Belo Horizonte. Alternatively, catch an Atual (www.ciaatual.com.br) bus to Lagoa Santa (50 minutes), then continue to the cave on local bus 306 (35 minutes).

  • See

    Gruta Rei do Mato

    This is the most interesting of the caves surrounding Belo Horizonte. Near Sete Lagoas, 70km north of Belo, it has prehistoric paintings and petroglyphs. From Belo Horizonte, take any Sete Lagoas–bound bus running along Hwy BR-040 (R$28, 80 minutes, hourly) and ask the driver to drop you at the cave entrance.

  • See

    Parque Municipal

    One of Beagá's most appealing spots, this enormous sea of tropical greenery with artificial lakes and winding pathways is just 10 minutes southeast of the bus station. It's especially fun on Sunday, when everyone's out strolling and socializing.

  • See

    Museu de Artes e Ofícios

    Housed in Belo’s historic train station, this museum displays a wide-ranging collection of objects used in the daily lives of mineiros past and present. There are interpretive cards in English adjacent to each exhibit.

  • See

    Museu das Minas e do Metal

    Opened in 2010, the Museu das Minas e do Metal traces the economic, cultural and social history of mining in Minas Gerais, with multiple floors of mineral exhibits and some interesting interactive displays.