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By far the prettiest city in Republika Srpska, Trebinje has a compact centre with a tiny walled Old Town flanked by a leafy market square. The Trebišnjica River is slow and shallow as it passes through, its banks lined with swimming spots and replicas of waterwheels, which were once used for irrigation. Mountains provide a sunbaked backdrop, while hills topped with Orthodox churches punctuate the suburbs.

It's barely 30km from Dubrovnik, but in tourist terms it's a world away – not to mention vastly cheaper. Some canny travellers base themselves here and 'commute'.

Trebinje's always been a Serb-majority town but more so since the war, with the proportion rising from 70% to 94%.