The ultimate weekend in Killarney, Ireland

Sitting on the outskirts of the stunning Killarney National Park, Killarney town is an energetic tourist hub and a perfect base to explore the further reaches of County Kerry, with plenty of accommodation options, excellent restaurants, cozy pubs with live music nearly every night of the week and tour operators to bring you to any of the incredible regional sights.

I had never been to Killarney before, and my first visit was enough to convince me that I need to come back. Even with action-packed days, I barely skimmed the surface of the activities, views and nights out in this bustling town.

Use this weekend itinerary as a guide for your first visit to Killarney.

• When to arrive: Start exploring Killarney early on a Friday afternoon, though a couple of days during the week won’t be as hectic, and accommodations will be cheaper. (There’s also less chance of running into a raucous hen party out on the town.) Summer is incredibly busy, so consider spring or autumn for your visit. The wonderful Wander Wild Festival takes place in April and is a fun choice for families, wellness enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers.

• How to get from the airport: Kerry Airport is a 25-minute drive from Killarney via taxi or public bus. A couple of trains a day leave Heuston station in Dublin for Killarney station, right in the middle of the town. This ride is far more relaxing and scenic than driving from the capital.

• Getting around town: Walking is always your best option for Irish towns. They were not designed for cars, and traffic can be mayhem. Killarney is no different. Cycling is an excellent way to get to the outer edges of the park for any walks or outdoor activities you have planned slightly outside of town. Most hostels and hotels will rent bikes.

• Where to stay: The beautiful Killarney Plaza Hotel is smack in the center of the town. For those on a budget, the Black Sheep Hostel, run by travelers for travelers, is a great option. And for something more middle-of-the-road price-wise, and out of the bustle of the town center, Crystal Springs is a bed and breakfast sitting on the River Flesk.

• What to pack: Bring walking or hiking boots, and rain gear that folds up easily. You’ll be out and about a lot, so it’s handy to have a raincoat just in case – this is the west coast of Ireland after all.

Friday

How to spend the day

Kayaking on the lake in the middle of Killarney National Park is an absolute must. Head out onto the calm waters of Lough Leane surrounded by Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountain range. The views are unrivaled. Irish Adventures will take you out on the lake from the 15th-century Ross Castle, a historic site worth a look in its own right. Splitting time between Dingle and Killarney, this friendly and professional outfit run by Noel and Conor accommodates anyone from beginners upward. They are mindful of varying abilities, and all gear is provided. You will kayak to Inisfallen Island, site of a monastery from the 7th century and currently home to ruins of a 12th-century Augustinian priory. We had an extremely peaceful afternoon paddling our way over smooth water under the sun. For those who want to enjoy the views with less strenuous requirements, there are also water-bus tours available with Killarney Lake Tours.

Dinner

After working up an appetite on the lake, Polly’s on the ground floor of The Ross hotel in Killarney town is the perfect place for dinner and a few refreshing cocktails. This modern spot is inspired by Mediterranean food, with a focus on sustainability. The house-made mint lemonade is delicious on a warm day.

After dark

No sojourn in Killarney is complete until you’ve spent a few hours of an evening ensconced in a cozy pub with a pint, listening to some traditional music. O’Connor’s is the gold standard, scheduling live music every night. This family-run pub is 100 years old and full of charm. It’s not big, so get there early. JM Reidy is another great choice, with pizza to boot.

Saturday

Morning

For early risers, a sunrise dip at Dundag Beach will wake you up. The water wasn’t exactly warm in early April – see if you can withstand more than I can (above the ankles). It’s a gorgeous place to enjoy the early morning. Samhradh’s sauna, a mobile sauna in the region, was there for a warm-up afterward, or you could do like some adventurers and hop continually between the lake and the sauna for 30 minutes to get your blood really circulating. Check the location of the sauna during your visit; it will be beside one of the bodies of water in the region.

How to spend the day

For those traveling with kids – or anyone who likes ice cream – the Cow to Cone tour at Muckross Creamery cannot be missed. The award-winning ice cream is a recent addition to the dairy farm owned by John and Catherine Fleming – the farm, 5km from Killarney town, has been in the family since the 1840s. A tour involves seeing the calves, the milking room, the cows and the ice cream room up close, along with a whistle-stop introduction to the process of making ice cream. And of course it includes a sample!

The friendly family operation also sells its own granola and skyr. The ice cream itself is delicious: creamy and fresh, with incredible flavors. My favorite was strawberry, but the options can change, so it's best to try a few. It's a working farm, and tours don’t run all the time, but you can find the ice cream in local shops and at farmers markets.

Dinner

Killarney is not short on dinner options, no matter what budget or type of cuisine you’re looking for, from upmarket Hilliard’s on Main St and Argentine street food at Tango to small plates with excellent cocktails at Pig’s Lane.

Sunday

Morning

Start the morning with a lively brunch at Café du Parc, connected to the Killarney Plaza Hotel, opposite Killarney House. It brings all the usual brunch options up to a high standard (try the eggs Benedict) and will set you right up for a hike.

How to spend the day

Tomies Wood, a 20-minute drive from Killarney town, is an ideal spot for a Sunday walk. If you’re lucky, you’ll see deer, squirrels and maybe even a white-tailed eagle as you wander through one of Ireland’s few oak woodlands. There are a couple of trails, depending on how intensive a hike you’re looking for, the longest a 6km loop. The path is very popular with dog walkers. Keep an eye out for the steps down to O’Sullivan’s Cascade, a peaceful waterfall where you can rest alongside moss-covered rocks and listen to the water. Keep some drinking water on hand for the steps back up.

Next time

Despite my action-packed few days in Killarney, I left with an even longer to-do list than when I arrived. I still want to climb Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest peak; hike Torc Mountain; explore the Gap of Dunloe via boat and bike; and see the Victorian Muckross estate. Needless to say, Killarney has jumped up the list as one of my favorite destinations in Ireland.