
Patio de las Banderas in Seville, Spain. Emilio Parra Doiztua for Lonely Planet
Seville is a gleaming jewel in Andalucía’s cultural crown and a superb introduction to this region in southern Spain. Packed into its fairly compact casco antiguo (old town) are some of the country's great architectural treasures, including the Real Alcázar; its most impassioned art form, flamenco; and a host of museums, mansions and ornate churches.
And because a great trip is a well-planned trip, here are all the things you need to know about Seville before you go, including when to visit, how long to stay and how to get around, plus tips on safety and etiquette.
1. Plan to spend at least 3 days in Seville
Seville demands proper exploration. Barrio Santa Cruz is a great place to start for first-time visitors: three UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the Real Alcázar, Catedral de Seville and Archivo General de Indias – are clustered at the edge of the labyrinthine neighborhood. These sights alone could easily consume a couple of days, particularly when combined with the riches of the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes and flamenco tablaos such as Casa de la Guitarra. But there are many more top sights within easy walking distance, including fascinating museums, churches and mansions. And that’s without even mentioning the food or the day trips. Three days is the minimum you’ll want to spend in Seville.
2. You don’t need to avoid high summer
While some travelers advise against visiting Seville in July and August, when the temperature can exceed 40°C (104°F), the reality isn’t all that bad. The old city was laid out to keep the streets primarily in the shade throughout the day, and most hotels have air-conditioned rooms. And budget travelers who visit when other tourists have been scared away can bag some bargain prices for hotel rooms right in the Casco Viejo. If you’re happy to work an afternoon siesta into your itinerary – when many businesses are closed anyway, especially outside the central areas – you can still make the most of the mornings (aim to see the Real Alcázar and cathedral before the day gets too hot) and evenings to explore. But don’t forget to pack sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen, and drink plenty of water throughout the day.
3. Visit the cathedral and Real Alcázar on separate days
Although it’s tempting to pack all three of Seville’s UNESCO sites into one long day, it’s not advisable if you want to experience them properly. Both the Catedral de Sevilla and Real Alcázar require timed tickets – turn up early or late and you might be turned away. It’ll be less fun visiting the first site if you know you have to hurry through it to make it in time to enter the second one. They are also both vast places that demand a lot of walking and standing. The Real Alcázar and its gardens need at least a half a day to explore thoroughly. The cathedral is one of the world’s largest, and ascending its Giralda bell tower is an approximately 100m climb, which is extra draining if you’re visiting during hot weather. The Archivo General de Indias, however, makes for a perfect companion to see alongside either of the other two headliners.
4. Two major spring festivals draw crowds to Seville
The spring shoulder season is becoming an increasingly popular time to visit Seville. Average temperatures climb above 15°C (60°F), the sights aren’t overcrowded, and orange blossoms perfume the whole city. But this is also when Seville’s two biggest festivals occur. The first is Semana Santa (Holy Week, before Easter), which draws huge crowds to the streets. Then Andalucian customs and cuisine are celebrated with a good measure of drinking for the Feria de Abril. If you want to experience these joyous events, book as far ahead as possible. (The dates for both change every year.) Otherwise, aim to visit on either side of these parties to dodge the crowds.
5. Score free tickets
The Catedral de Sevilla offers free visits on Sundays, with access to the church and bell tower from 4:30–6pm, excluding religious festivals. Demand is monumental, and tickets are snapped up on the cathedral's website very quickly, so you might need to try a couple of times.
6. Driving in central Seville is challenging
If you’re planning to road-trip around Andalucía, it’s worth ditching the car for the Seville portion of your trip. As in other historic cities in the region such as Córdoba, the narrow streets, one-way system, pedestrianized zones and complete lack of parking make driving a hassle. Besides, Seville is one of the best places in Spain to explore on foot, with many attractions clustered close together. For more spread-out sights, rent bicycles from Sevici docking stations or e-bikes or scooters from Surf the City. An electric tram line connects the San Sebastián bus station to the central Plaza Nueva.
If driving yourself was never part of the plan, Seville is well connected by trains and buses to other towns in Andalucía and the country more broadly. The main Plaza de Armas bus station serves major destinations across Andalucía. High-speed trains run from Sevilla Santa Justa; buses link the train station to central Seville.
7. Don’t expect to find any dinner before 8pm
Mealtimes in Seville are short, sharp bursts of frenetic culinary activity that demand a rest period in between. As in most of Spain, restaurants in Seville are not set up to sate hunger whenever it arises. Instead, kitchens open at specific times with little exception. In most cases, doors will be closed until 8pm. By 9:30pm the place will be packed, as the locals come to eat a light dinner of tapas.
Lunch is the day’s main meal for most Andalucians, and it takes place during a similarly rigid window of 1–3pm. If you’re accustomed to eating lunch or dinner at different times, buy some snacks at a supermarket such as Carrefour Express to keep you going.
8. An introductory kiss on the cheeks is (mostly) the norm
When you’re introduced to a local, it can be rather surprising to see them coming in for a light peck on either cheek, particularly if you come from a place where personal space is a thing. If it’s between two men, a firm handshake is expected, but any other gender combination applies the two-kiss rule.
9. Seville’s LGBTQ+ community is welcomed and celebrated
Like the rest of urban Spain, Seville is a culturally open-minded and liberal city where the LGBTQ+ community is embraced. The city hosts the region’s biggest Pride parade – Orgullo de Andalucía in late June – and there are LGBTQ-friendly businesses throughout the city. The community’s hub is around Alameda de Hércules, which is Seville’s best nightlife area.
10. Tipping is appreciated but not expected
Tipping in Spain isn’t mandatory. But giving a little extra at restaurants and tapas bars – 10% is adequate – is always appreciated and often well deserved. You’ll soon discover that service in Spain during peak mealtimes is an art form that combines patience, endurance and the unique ability to balance a great amount of crockery while weaving through impossibly tight gaps in the crowd.
11. Drink more water than you think you need
Part of Seville’s allure to visitors is the hot and dry climate, and you might not realize how much you’re sweating, as it evaporates so quickly. Naturally, this means dehydration, and heat stroke can creep up on you. Always carry at least a liter of water with you and drink little but often throughout the day.
12. Seville is generally safe
While it always pays to be cautious and stay in control, Seville is considered one of the safest cities in Spain. From the tap water (which is completely fine to drink) to the few pickpockets and low level of street crime, even at night it’s acceptable to let down your barriers to some degree in Seville. However rare crime may be, do maintain some vigilance of your belongings, particularly in the train and bus stations and during busy or crowded times, such as at festivals.
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