The ultimate 5-day outback Queensland road trip

Roughly the same size as Mexico, Australia's massive state of Queensland was made for road trips. Cruising the state’s Pacific coast is rightly popular, with the epic 2000km (1243-mile) drive from the glitzy Gold Coast to tropical north Queensland among my all-time favorite Australian adventures. If you’re not big on beaches – or you’re keen to try something different – Queensland’s rugged outback offers plenty of memorable alternatives. 

One of Queensland’s newest road-trip routes, the Wellness Way, links nearly two dozen mineral-rich artesian springs bubbling up from the subterranean Great Artesian Basin across outback Queensland, a vast, arid wilderness occupying about 68% of the state. Lacking the time to complete the entire journey, I packed my swimwear and hit the road for a taste of the region’s hot springs and other unexpected attractions. Here’s how to do it yourself in five days from Brisbane, or four if you opt to drop off a hire car in Charleville.

When is the best time to go?

Outback Queensland is best visited during the cooler months between May and October, particularly July and August, when crisp winter mornings and evenings are ideal for relaxing in hot springs. Chilly mornings can quickly turn into warm days, so pack layers.

Where is the best place to start and rent a car?

Brisbane Airport is located 16km (10 miles) northeast of the city center. All major car rental operators (including Avis and Budget, which offer drop-off in Charleville) have outlets at the airport. The main roads on this road trip are paved, so a regular sedan will be fine, but get insurance and read up on outback driving safety.

Is there anything else I should know?

It’s best to avoid wearing jewelry, especially silver, in the mineral-rich artesian springs, which can cause it to tarnish. I also learned the hard way that some local hotels pipe in artesian water, so it's best to remove jewelry before washing.

Day 1: Head west from Brisbane to the edge of the outback

The drive: Brisbane’s high-rises soon disappear from the rearview mirror as you head west through the rolling pastures of rural southeast Queensland on this 500km (311-mile) drive. Have a playlist ready, as radio reception can be spotty in the countryside. With a long day ahead of you on the road, stay safe and take breaks in some of the historic country towns on your journey.

Do: In Toowoomba, a two-hour drive west of Brisbane, grab a coffee at Ortem, then admire Queenslander architecture on the Russell Street Historical Walk or discover how horse-drawn vehicles played an important role in Queensland's development at the Cobb+Co Museum. West of Toowoomba, the smaller town of Dalby is also dotted with heritage buildings; grab a map at the Visitor Information Centre and take a self-guided tour. Fuel up for the 300km (186-mile) drive to the small Banonne River-side town of St George with an Aussie pub lunch at the Criterion.

Stay: Check into a spacious cabin at the Pelican Rest Tourist Park of St George, which has a 12m (13yd) heated pool filled with artesian water infused with a therapeutic blend of minerals – perfect for a post-drive dip. Cook up your own dinner in the camp kitchen or take a 30-minute drive south to the atmospheric Nindigully Pub. Operating since 1664, it’s one of Queensland’s oldest pubs.

Day 2: History, culture and hot-spring heaven on the road to Cunnamulla

The drive: The landscape becomes flatter and the soil redder on the 300km (186-mile) drive to Cunnamulla. Before you leave St George via the Balonne Hwy, take a short detour (about 10km/6 miles) south down the Carnarvon Hwy to see lush cotton fields stretching to the horizon. With limited lunch options on today’s drive, it’s also a good idea to pick up supplies before you leave St George.

Do: Begin your day with a soak in the heated artesian bath at the St George Aquatic Centre, then download the St George Heritage Trail map and explore local sites that have shaped the town’s history. Don’t miss the Harmony Centre, where you can learn about local First Nations culture and shop for Aboriginal art. The main town you’ll pass en route to Cunnamulla is Bollon (population: 174), where the Bollon Heritage Centre and Nullawokka First Nations Gallery are worthwhile stops.

Allow an hour to luxuriate in the hot springs at Charlotte Plains, 50km (31 miles) east of Cunnamulla. Here the owners of a sheep station have installed bathtubs alongside a natural spring and pool where you can enjoy a soak with a drink in hand – there’s also a bar (and camping) onsite.

Save some hot-spring energy for Cunnamulla Hot Springs. Created by the same team behind Victoria’s legendary Peninsula Hot Springs, this sophisticated complex opened on the banks of the Warrego River in 2024 has seven pools (including an icy plunge pool), plus a sauna and steam room. Open until 6pm on weekdays and 7pm on weekends, it’s a great place to visit in the late afternoon as I did, when the gumtrees along the riverbank fill with chattering birds.

Stay: Antique furniture, pops of color and portraits of historical characters make the Club Boutique Hotel Cunnamulla a fun place to lay your head. Just 200m (656ft) away, the Hotel Cunnamulla is a good dinner option. Note the Cunnamulla Fella statue across the road – it’s a tribute to the "larrikin" (that's Australian for "maverick") in the eponymous Slim Dusty song.

Day 3: Wallow in mud and "fossick" (search) for opals en route to Quilpie

The drive: Today’s drive takes you west of Cunnamulla to Eulo and Yowah then onward to Quilpie, a 350km (217-mile) drive in total. You’re deep in the outback now, where red dirt meets wide blue skies, and emus can often be spotted roaming beyond the road.

Do: Take a pitstop in Eulo, just under 70km (43 miles) west of Cunnamulla, where relaxing in a clawfoot bathtub filled with artesian water and smooth, milky clay at the Artesian Mud Baths is a must-do. Just down the road, the Eulo Queen Hotel serves a great chicken parmy (breaded and fried chicken topped with tomato sauce and cheese). Next up is the opal town of Yowah, 91km (57 miles) from Eulo, which also has an artesian pool. Hunt for almond-shaped "Yowah nut" opals in the public fossicking (prospecting) area 600m (656yd) from town or shop for these glittering gems at local opal stores or at July’s Yowah Opal Festival.

Stay: Recently restored to its former glory, the Brick Hotel in Quilpie, dating from 1926, has many original features including pressed tin ceilings, timber floors and a grand stairwell chandelier. Left unchanged, the faded facade adds even more character. Light meals are served at the bar, or you can eat at the Quilpie Pub (Imperial Hotel) two doors down.

Day 4: Onward to Charleville for wildlife, stars and a war museum

The drive: There’s not much to see between the red dirt and mulga trees on the 210km (130-mile) drive to the regional center of Charleville, which makes it all the more worthwhile to pause halfway at the Fox Trap in Cooladdi. A pub, post office, restaurant and motel in one, it’s the only building in this "town" of two residents (who run the Fox Trap).

Do: If it’s a Saturday, aim to arrive in Charleville in time for the 11am (or 1pm) Bilby Experience, a guided tour offering a chance to view the adorable, long-eared outback mammals in an enclosure that creates a nocturnal environment during the day. (On weekdays, the experience is hosted at 9am and 3pm.) Or head straight to the WWII Secret Base where 3500 US servicemen were stationed during WWII. Visit six significant locations on what used to be a US Air Force base on a tagalong tour, then visit the excellent exhibition center. After dark, join an outback stargazing experience at the Charleville Cosmos Centre. Using powerful 14-inch Meade telescopes, your expert guides will show you planets, nebulae, and star clusters millions of light years away.

Stay: Near the Cosmos Centre on the southeastern edge of town, the Mulga Country Motor Inn is a simple but comfortable place to spend the night. In the center, the Rocks Motel is a more modern alternative with an attached restaurant, but if you’re visiting between Thursday and Saturday, the Warrego Yacht Club is the top spot in town to tuck into a classic Australian bistro meal, from slow-roast pork belly to a hearty steak.

Day 5: Drive – or fly – back to Brisbane

The drive: Get an early start for the 745km (463-mile) drive back to Brisbane or prearrange to drop off your hire car at Charleville Airport and take a flight (1 hour 45 minutes) back to the big smoke. The Milk Bar on Aldred is a top breakfast option, with smoothies, bagels, toasties and more.

Do: In Mitchell, 180km (112 miles) east of Charleville, the Great Artesian Spa is your last opportunity for a healing hot soak on the Wellness Way. If you’re feeling peckish as you pass through Roma, Australia’s "cattle capital," Rex Coffee + Food usually has a tasty lunch special on offer. 

Stay: Stay on-theme (ish) and treat yourself to a luxurious, Palm Springs-inspired stay at the Calile in Brisbane’s hip Fortitude Valley. Its glittering pool might not be filled with artesian water, but it’s a glorious spot to spend an afternoon lounging under a mint green-and-white-striped umbrella.

Sarah Reid visited Queensland at the invitation of Outback Queensland and Tourism Australia. Lonely Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.