Lisbon’s best bookshops

If you had to guess where the oldest bookshop in the world was located, Lisbon would likely not be your first choice – and yet Libraria Bertrand, which opened in 1732, is just the beginning of Lisbon’s unsung literary scene.

Portugal’s capital plays host to an annual Lisbon Book Fair taking place each June in Parque Eduardo VII, but it has robust offerings for book lovers all year round. 

Did you know that Lisbon has more bookshops per capita than any other city worldwide? From Portuguese classics in English translation to vast warehouses where the offering extends to records, too, Lisbon is a literature lover’s paradise. 

1. Livraria Simão

Let’s start small – literally. Livraria Simão is so minuscule that its owner and namesake, Simão Carneiro, has to step out to let you in. But don’t let the 4sq meter size put you off – there are almost 4,000 secondhand books in this treasure trove. The store stocks mostly preloved Portuguese literature, but there’s also some books in English, French and other languages if you rummage.

Detour: Afterward, walk 10 minutes to the José Saramago Foundation, housed at Casa dos Bicos, where you will find exhibitions chronicling the life and work of the Nobel Prize–winning Portuguese author, including his tomb.

2. Salted Books

You’d be forgiven for walking straight past this English-language bookshop, located in the sleepy neighborhood of Santos. Still, one look at the royal blue walls and shelving – with books arranged artfully, covers facing out – and you will never forget it. Everyone who works here is involved in the publishing industry in some capacity, so you’ll be getting your books recommended by a novelist, translator, journalist or literary agent. ‘We don’t follow any bestseller lists when curating,’ says founder Alex Holder. ‘We’re here for the politically aware, discerning reader who loves a rom-com chaser to follow the latest discursive memoir.’

Planning tip: When you’re planning your visit, check out Salted Books’ regular events program, which features free talks from touring international writers. 

3. Fable

Fable is yet another newish English-language bookshop, opened in 2023 by American entrepreneur Melyssa Griffin. With a wellness-focused cafe on the ground floor and a cosy basement bookshop, this verdant space is a favorite among the local community. After hours, return for a glass of natural wine and an evening gathering: think monthly open mics and focused writers’ hours, for those who like to get creative (and share in others’ creativity) on their travels.

Detour: Head to the nearby Estrela Park, where you can find Biblioteca-Quisoque do Jardim da Estrela, one of the world’s first open-air public libraries, now run by the local parish council. A kiosk (or quiosque) turned into a lending library, with books in several languages. Either exchange a pre-owned book of your own for a new read, or borrow one of their selections to read on the grass. 

4. Livraria Bertrand

Livraria Bertrand is officially the oldest operating bookshop in the world, and yet it remains more current than ever, attracting visitors from all over the world.

As you walk through the space, you will pass through a series of original vaulted ceilings and arched doorways. Each of the bookshop’s six rooms is named after a Portuguese writer, including novelist Eça de Queiróz and poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen. Far more than a tourist attraction, Livraria Bertrand is known for its friendly staff, who offer guided tours in English and Spanish as well as Portuguese, together with tailored advice for bibliophiles on its collection of new editions, which include translated Portuguese classics in five languages (including English). 

Local tip: Looking for a unique gift? All books purchased receive a stamp in the front that reads ‘From the oldest bookshop in the world’ – available in several languages.

5. Good Company

Founded in 2024 by husband-and-wife team Sam Miller and Giovanna Centeno, Good Company specializes in Portuguese-language literature in English translation.

Located in Lisbon’s business district, Saldanha, Good Company is without a doubt the most beautiful bookshop on this list. It was designed by the Portuguese interior design studio Studio Pim, using entirely Portuguese-sourced materials, with its bar countertop made from Estremoz marble and the lime-green ceiling insulated with wool from Serra de Estrela. Open 9am to 9pm, Tuesday through Saturday, Good Company hosts storytimes for children and is also a chic spot for evening drinks. Its clientele is 50% Portuguese,  and other customers are mostly expats who have settled in the area. 

Local tip: The best spot to sit is at the bar, with a view of a pair of painted tile murals decorated with astrological signs, muses and literary motifs. Look out for the Easter egg in one of the murals: a tiny book with the words ‘Good Company’ written on its cover.

6. Bookshop Bivar

If it’s secondhand books you’re after, Bookshop Bivar is your spot. A cosy, no-frills treasure trove, you will feel free to settle down on the cosy red sofa with a blanket and feel at home to peruse your purchase options. Owner Eduarda, born in the Azores and raised in Canada, has heaps of recommendations, which she can offer you in English and Portuguese. Head to the discount room, a treasure trove of books for as little as €1. 

Detour: Want to take your book to lunch? You can do no better than the nearby Galeto restaurant, a snack bar that’s not so much counter-dining as all-counter. Solo diners need not feel self-conscious in one of its 100+ individual slots, where you can tuck into one of the best bifanas (pork sandwiches) in Lisbon.

7. Ler Devagar

Set over three floors, Ler Devager, which translates to ‘read slowly’, is the largest bookshop on our list – and for good reason, as it boasts not only books (a collection of new and used) but an impressive collection of vinyl records, and a cafe/bar to boot. Look out for the bike sculpture suspended over the stairs.

Local tip: Ler Devager is located in the hip LX Factory, a renovated former industrial textile factory that is now home to concept stores and street food stalls.