“Raw, Stunning, Otherworldly”: 10 days on Iceland's Ring Road

LA-based photographer Daniel Dorsa is no stranger to Northern Europe, having completed a circuit of Iceland’s Ring Road in 2015 and frequently visiting Greenland for an ongoing photo project.

We asked him to revisit the land of ice and fire, as Iceland is sometimes affectionately called, in June ahead of our upcoming books. Daniel’s work is stunning, and even though I’ve seen the photos, I still have a hard time wrapping my head around the scale of what’s in the photographs, and of Iceland itself. We asked Daniel about his trip while it was still fresh in his mind.

Steps to a lighthouse — Reykjanes Light in Keflavík. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

How would you define the feeling of being on the Ring Road?

Iceland is probably the most accessible place you’ll get to see raw, untouched beauty. Every turn on the drive around the ring, I was met with another unbelievably beautiful landscape. The midnight sun keeps the energy on a high note, and the seemingly endless natural baths keep you feeling warm.

Let’s say you have a friend who’s visiting this location next week. Based on what you saw on the trip, what would you recommend? I would fully recommend doing the full ring, as every section of Iceland feels like you’re in a completely different part of the road. In the Golden Circle, I’d experience grabbing a coffee at American School Bus Cafe to see the kitschy interior of the school bus and eating at the greenhouses in Friðheimar. Heading south, stop by the secret swimming pool for a cool dip and see the many waterfalls on the drive. In the east, eat at Nielson, see puffins at Borgarfjarðarhöfn, and relax at Vöx Baths for a luxurious spa experience on the river. In the north, stop at the Turf museum on your way to Grettislaug Campsite in Reykhólar with a natural hot spring to watch sunset at.

The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa in Reykjavik. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

You last drove the Ring Road in 2015. What surprised you most this time around on assignment for Lonely Planet? While I was aware of the midnight sun, I didn’t anticipate how beautiful the light would render throughout the whole day and night. Even at midnight, I was able to photograph without a tripod and get a beautiful quality of light at all times.

What was a memorable moment from your trip? Camping at Grettislaug Campsite in Reykhólar was hands down the best part of the trip. The stunning turf houses and the natural baths that are open 24 hours a day were a welcome reprieve. Sitting in the natural 41ºC tub with a refreshing beverage looking at the sunset drop below the horizon of the black sand beach was unforgettable. It may be a bit of a detour, but it’s worth the effort. I’d also recommend Borgarfjarðarhöfn to get the least obstructed view of thousands of puffins.

Three car camps on green turf with rocks and a beach in the background at sunset — Grettislaug Campsite in Reykhólar, one of the highlights of the trip. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

A man in an orange jacket stands at the bottom of a rocky outcropping in Iceland — Hljóðaklettar. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

Can you talk a bit about your interactions with folks there, tourists and locals, the good and the bad?The Golden Circle and the south are filled with tourists in the summer. Compared to my first trip in 2015, there was definitely a noticeable increase in the amount of people visiting Iceland. While there was the occasional annoying drone being operated when they were not allowed, most people were really respectful and in awe with how beautiful the landscape was. The crowds were diverse, with tons of different languages being spoken, but the universal language of joy was felt. Once you pass Diamond Beach though, the amount of tourists drops considerably. That's where you begin to have more moments of solitude on long stretches of road. I don't view this as a bad thing, though. I view it as an opportunity to connect with the place on a deeper level than you could before.

Left, the interior of a restaurant with black seats, orange lights and a checkered floor. Right, a payphone that says "talk to God" on a sign above it — Scenes inside and outside the American SchoolBus Cafe in Hella. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

A black roofed building in a botanical garden with people lounging and enjoying the sun outside — The Akureyri Botanical Garden in Lystigarður Akureyrar. Daniel Dorsa for Lonely Planet

I'd also love to hear a bit more about how you both entertained each other on the road. Your Ring Road trip was about ten days of driving – what helped pass the time, and what could you not live without? While the amount of driving is a lot, there is almost always something to stop for. The windshield becomes the best screen you could ask for. Even when we knew we had a lot of road to cover on a particular day, we would be stopping constantly to take photos or even just enjoy the beauty. We'd point out every waterfall or church we'd spot as they are pretty ubiquitous in Iceland (and all beautiful). But other than the beautiful scenery, music was important to keep spirits high on the drives. To be honest, though, we were never bored. There's so much to see and do that even the drives felt like an activity.