A guide to Warsaw

Poland’s vibrant capital city doesn’t always grab the headlines when we discuss travel in Europe. And that's a shame. With Warsaw’s layered complex history, and continuing post-Communism glow-up, there’s always something new to explore. 

The former Communist headquarters now hosts a trendy breakfast spot and pizza place. And while the Palace of Culture and Science went from Stalin monument to creative hub a long time ago (be sure to stop for a drink at Kulturalna and Bar Studio or explore the recently reopened Muzeum Neonów), the surrounding area was recently given a facelift in honor of the building’s 70th anniversary, making it even more of an appealing third space. 

Are you a fan of art, culture and food, and ready for an unexpected city break? Read on to learn how to get the most out of your time in Warsaw. 

When should I go to Warsaw?

You can’t beat the summer for your first trip to Warsaw. Yes, it's the high season, which means you’ll pay more for hotels, but the city opens up during the months of May through September in a way that far outshines other times of year. It isn’t just one-off events, like the Sunday Chopin Concerts in Łazienki Park, or The Jazz on the Old Town Square Festival. Areas like the Vistula Boulevards or the outdoor cafes surrounding Plac Zbawiciela light up when it warms up, and then turn into ghost towns as soon as the mercury starts to fall.

If you simply must have a winter vacation in Warsaw (not a terrible decision, as cold weather is best with a side of pierogi), aim for the Christmas markets. These start appearing in late November, with the largest one stretching across Old Town in the Castle Square and the Barbican area. In early December, the Palace of Culture and Sciences hosts a secondary Christmas Market, which doubles as a dumpling festival.

How much time should I spend in Warsaw?

A weekend is a great start. Not only will you be able to touch on the history, food and cultural aspects of the city, but many special events like the Breakfast Market, Nocny Market and riding historical trams only happen on Saturday and Sunday. But if you have time, expand your trip into a long weekend to explore the street art on the Praga side of the Vistula River, or take a day trip to the Kampinos National Park, located just northwest of the city.  

Is it easy to get in and around Warsaw?  

In short, yes! Chopin Airport is located 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) from the city center, with direct bus, train and rideshare options available. (In addition to Uber, Bolt is also a popular choice.) Within Warsaw, there’s a subway, tram and bus system that covers the majority of the city. During rush hour, public transit options are regularly faster than rideshares.  

Top things to do in Warsaw

Visit the Muzeum Neonów

The Neon Museum is one of the few institutions in the city that will appeal to both history buffs and those just looking for a great Instagram snap. What once was a traumatic symbol of Soviet rule is now a preserved expression of how creativity can light up the darkness – sometimes literally. Stop by to snap a photo of the oversize mermaid or curvy rainbow, or enjoy the collection on a more historical level thanks to detailed explainers in both Polish and English. And with the museum's new, larger location inside the Palace of Culture and Science, there’s even more of the historical collection on display.

Eat at a milk bar

Ignore the hordes of barkers outside the restaurants in Old Town. If you’re really looking to explore Polish culture through your stomach, visit a milk bar instead. Milk bars (or bar mleczny) are traditional Polish cafeterias, which started in 1896 and flourished during the Communist era when cheap eats became a must. Today they still remain the best place to sample dishes like pierogis, potato pancakes, borscht (beetroot soup), or gołąbki (meat-filled cabbage rolls in tomato sauce). The portions are generous, and the price is low, making local haunts like Wegetariański Bar Mleczny Warszawa, Prasowy and Bar Bambino the perfect spots for your taste buds to run free.

Smell the flowers at the Warsaw University Library Gardens

The minimalist glass and retro-futuristic steel design surrounding the Warsaw University Library Gardens probably isn’t what you imagine when you think of Poland’s capital city, and that’s exactly the point. The rooftop botanical gardens are free to enter between April 1 and the end of October and draw nearly 1 million visitors per year. Come for the prismatic tangle of flowers in Poland’s biggest rooftop garden, but be sure to appreciate the view, where you can spot the Palace of Culture and Science, the Copernicus Science Centre, PGE Narodowy stadium and the banks of the Vistula River.

Shop at Elektrownia Powiśle

After being decommissioned as a power plant in the early 2000s, Elektrownia Powiśle is now one of the coolest shopping malls in Warsaw, and a brilliant example of how the city continues to embrace reinvention. Go just to appreciate the brickwork and steel (much of it preserved from its former life), window shop their deep bench of Polish brands, or grab lunch in the funky neon-lit food hall. The building also acts as an event space, regularly holding vintage fairs, yoga classes and open-air cinemas.

My favorite thing to do in Warsaw

While it’s impossible to cover every inch of the city on foot (200 sq mi and 18 districts is a tall ask), walking in Warsaw remains one of my favorite activities. From street art to historic venues to the distraction of a good cafe, you can’t beat the “choose your own adventure” flexibility.

Start in the downtown Śródmieście district, and walk from Old Town, past the Palace of Culture, and into Mokotów, an upscale neighborhood known for green spaces and burgeoning cafe culture.

Popular thoroughfares Nowy Świat and Krakowskie Przedmieście become pedestrian streets on holidays and every weekend from Saturday morning until Sunday evening, and it’s a distinct pleasure to walk in the street with the crowds of window-shoppers.

But perhaps the ultimate summer pleasure is covering the nearly 4 miles of riverside Vistulan Boulevards on foot at sunset. Stop for a drink or snack at one of the many river clubs and cafes – BarKa is my favorite. Then, use Warsaw’s first pedestrian bridge, located between Świętokrzyski Bridge and Śląsko-Dąbrowski Bridge to cross from one side of the river to the other, or just grab a spectacular photograph of the skyline from the center.

How much money do I need for Warsaw

• Night at a downtown hotel:  369 PLN-515 PLN high season (US$100-140)

• One-day public transit pass (unlimited rides): 26 PLN for Zones 1 and 2 (US$7)

• An Americano at Secret Life Cafe: 13 PLN (US$4)

• A plate of pierogi at a milk bar: 19 PLN (US$5)

• A Polish Lager at Beirut Hummus & Music Bar: 17 PLN (US$5)

• Entrance to the Palace of Culture Observation Platform: 28 PLN (US$8)

• Tickets to a football game at Polish Army Stadium: 100 PLN (US$27)

Is Warsaw safe?

In short, yes. Warsaw has a crime rate that is significantly lower than other European cities of the same size. However, it is worth noting that public drinking, and the catcalls and unruly behavior that can come with it, is still an issue. And as with any big city, watch for pickpockets on public transport and tourist spaces.

What should I wear?

One look at locals will confirm: the uniform in Warsaw is neutral colors. Keep your travel wardrobe streamlined with plenty of layers – even in the summer you can start the day in a hoodie and end in a sundress – and you’ll fit right in.

Do I need to know Polish?

English signs, menus and instructions are readily available across the city, particularly in places frequented by tourists. Most of the younger generation, waitstaff and store employees have a functional level of English as well, however if you want to challenge yourself, everyone enjoys the effort of a few basic phrases like hello (dzień dobry) and thank you (dziękuję).