From Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the main square and roundabout with Atatürk's statue as focal point, walk north along Kurşunlu Caddesi to Kurşunlu Cami ('Lead-Covered Mosque', 1493) to reach Muğla's old quarter. The pink-and-white mosque's minaret and courtyard were added in 1900. Beyond here, the bazaar's narrow lanes are jammed with artisans' shops, confectioners and tea houses.
Muğla's 18th- and 19th-century Ottoman houses and its Ulu Cami (1344) are further north; the mosque was built by Menteşe emirs though alterations made in the 19th century have rendered its pre-Ottoman design almost unrecognisable. Nearby is the Greek-built clocktower (saatli kule) dating from 1905 which sounds a church-like bell on the hour. To the west, the Ottoman Sekibaşı Hamamı reonovated in 2010 hosts occasional art exhibits; its intricate architecture alone, with branching side rooms and central marble bath-table, make it worth a peek.