Shutterstock / Harry Wedzinga
An unexpected combination of style, gritty back alleys, cafe-lined canals and urban renewal, Friesland's capital is well worth a visit. Its superb trinity of museums and inventive cultural projects left over from a fabulous year as European Capital of Culture in 2018 are fascinating to explore. A continuous flow of cyclists ride happily along the broad paths that flank the city's canals, whose tunnels are atmospherically illuminated purple at night. Stick around and sample some of the northern hospitality, easily found in Leeuwarden's many bars and cafes throbbing with fun-loving Liwwadders (as people from Leeuwarden are officially known).
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Leeuwarden.
Museum
The provincial museum occupies an imposing glass-fronted building sporting a striking wood-and-steel roof that projects out over Wilhelminaplein. The three levels are divided into a series of galleries. A good place to start is the Ferhaal fan Fryslân gallery (1st floor), an overview of the province with representative objects from the collection.
Museum
Pottery lovers will adore the Netherlands ceramics museum. Here you'll find the largest collection of tiles on the planet, an unparalleled selection of Delftware and works from around the globe – the Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese sections are superbly displayed. Watch for top-billing temporary art exhibitions too.
Cultural Centre
No single sight evokes the undercurrent of explosive creativity pulsating through the Frisian capital quite like this 19th-century prison-turned-cultural centre. Dozens of entrepreneurial start-ups and young businesses now occupy the old cells; artist workshops, tattoo parlours, artisan boutiques and a designer hostel fill cell block H; while trendsetting Proefverlof is the hippest place in town for a canal-side bite or drink. Guided tours, led by a former prison guide complete with uniform, kick off from the latter.
Landmark
At the northwest corner of the historic core stands the notoriously off-kilter Oldehove – Friesland's rival to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Things went wrong shortly after the tower was started in 1529 and it never regained its proper posture, nor its intended height. Ride the lift up its 39 lopsided metres to enjoy a bird's-eye view of the vast square below, polka-dotted with engraved slabs of stone recalling the cemetery that was here until 1833.
Museum
Let your angels run rampant in this natural history museum, covering Friesland's flora and fauna. Highlights include a virtual bird-flight simulation (strap yourself into the hang-glider harness and away you go) and 'Friesland onder Water', an exploration of the bottom of a canal from a fish's perspective.
Cultural Centre
Named after the local Frisian poet Obe Postma (1868–1963), this contemporary wood-and-glass pavilion is razor-sharp in both architectural design and the cultural exhibitions it hosts. Its wave-shaped roof doubles as a public grandstand with a great view of historic square Oldehoofsterkerkhof and the lop-sided Oldehove tower.
Museum
Read up on the town's history at the city archives, home to a permanent exhibition on the history of Leeuwarden. It also organises guided tours led by local Liwwadders, and sells an excellent DIY city-walk book (€7.50) detailing all the main sights.
Historic Building
The petite weighing house dominates Waagplein; butter and other goods were weighed here from 1598 to 1884.