Damon Lynch
Tajikistan
The term 'predominantly mountainous' doesn't do justice to a country where over 90% of the land is upland. This fact of nature has given Tajikistan a precious advantage over its neighbours, namely some of the most inspiring, high-altitude landscape in the world. Within an hour of Dushanbe lie multi-hued lakes, peaks that beg to be climbed and high passes that thrill even reluctant travelers. In among this natural splendor are scattered villages and towns that survive cheek-by-jowl through each extreme season. It hasn't been easy for these traditional communities to adapt to the changing world beyond their mountain strongholds, but despite this they are unfailingly welcoming of outsiders and cheerfully excuse cultural faux-pas as part and parcel of their proud democracy. Welcome to 'The Roof of the World'!
Latest Stories from Tajikistan
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Tajikistan.
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Ethnography Museum
Sharing the same complex as the National Museum of Antiquities, this small museum houses an exquisite collection of traditional Tajikistan clothing (including a great set of woollen socks and gloves that seem disproportionately large for the average wearer) and some fine enamel jewellery in the form of amulets and earrings. The real gems of the collection, though, are the samples of vertically striped silk cloth known as 'atlas' – a fabric still worn by Tajikistani women on special occasions. Produced by the country's famous silk and cotton weaving industry, centred on the Qaratog area and traditionally the work of men, atlas fabric is traditionally produced from natural pigments such as cochineal, pomegranate and indigo which combine to create the distinctive and dynamic colour ways of the yarn. Great skill is needed to produce the printed appearance of the finished woven fabric. Sadly, weaving is a dying art in the region largely due to the import of mass produced cloth from China which gives a printed, and much cheaper, imitation of atlas. Photography is not permitted.
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Citadel
The city’s top sight is the citadel, the reconstructed corner of which is open to visitors. From the top of the 10th-century ramparts, the disintegrating baked-earth walls suggest hints of the seven gates and 6km of fortifications that were rebuilt in the 13th century and which mark the site of Alexander the Great’s original settlement. The citadel's military history continued into recent times when, in 1997, 300 people died in battles between Uzbek warlords and government troops. The main section of the fort remains occupied by the army but much of the eastern wall has been rebuilt and now houses the historical Museum of Sughd Province and the Museum of Archaeology & Fortifications. A few quality souvenir shops are dotted in and around the citadel museums and along the adjacent rose gardens of Komil Khojandi Park.
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Panchshanbe Bazaar
The core of this great bazaar, reputedly the largest in Central Asia, is an unusually elegant, purpose-built hall (1964) with arched entrance portals and a pink-and-lime-green neoclassical facade. If not the largest it's certainly one of the best-stocked markets in Central Asia, especially on Thursday ( panchshanbe in Tajik) when people and produce flood into the main hall. A pair of gilded statues, one male and one female, welcome merchants and buyers into the hall around which a whole street market has evolved under colourful awnings. Outside the western entrance, below these statues, a stand sells handmade and machine versions of the ubiquitous black Tajiki hat (10–80TJS).
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Rudaki Park
Extensive Rudaki Park, with its beautiful canopy of mature trees, offers a series of pathways through flower gardens and alongside lakes and fountains. Home to the giant flagpole and a much-photographed statue of Rudaki, and with glorious views of the city's iconic new buildings and monuments, it makes for a great location for a picnic in summer or snowy vistas in winter.
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Statue of Ismoil Somoni
One of Dushanbe’s most impressive modern monuments, this statue celebrates the 10th-century founder of the Samanid dynasty. With an art-deco quality to the design of the monument's golden casing and a prominent position on Friendship Sq, it has become a key rendezvous point in the city.
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Hulbuk Fortress
Destroyed by the Mongols, the sparse remnants of this fortified palace have been undergoing excavation since 1951 and now a fine reconstruction of the palace walls, complete with minaret and battlements, has been completed. Seen from the main road driving east, it seems to loom out of nowhere (8km west of Vose) and is an impressive sight. It's not possible to enter the ruins but a small museum opposite offers some helpful interpretation including a large model of the site. It’s worth taking a good look at the model as it helps visualise in three dimensions how this part of the western Pamir Hwy climbs only minimally towards Khorog – the heavy-duty ascent across the Pamir plateau is left to the eastern part of the highway after Khorog. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, Hulbuk Palace was at the centre of one of the four biggest cities of Central Asia and the seat of the Shah of Khatlon. The palace guarded a giant salt hill which was of great value at the time as the source of one of three precious resources (together with gold and horses) traded along the silk routes. The enthusiastic curator insists on showing visitors around the several rooms of his museum and kindly dispenses homemade handkerchiefs at the end of the tour. It seems churlish not to go with the flow but it's not one to visit if time is short!
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Historical Museum of Sughd Province
Built within the reconstructed southeastern bastion of the city wall, this museum houses a fascinating set of modern marble mosaics depicting the life of Alexander the Great – the war scenes with their multiple horses are particularly finely crafted. The great warrior's funeral procession shows his hand dangling empty as he had reputedly requested, showing he had conquered half the world but went to his grave with nothing. With its basement dioramas of prehistoric life, this is Khojand's best museum. Other features of the museum include some fine textiles and costumes, a traditional home showcasing Tajiki embroidery and some now rare Tajiki handwoven rugs.The main hall is dominated by a statue of Timur Malik, the local hero who battled the Mongol onslaught from an island in the Syr-Darya, formerly known as the Oxus. The river, which runs past Komil Khojandi Park alongside the citadel, makes for a pleasant post-museum stroll.
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Shurabad Pass
With any luck, there will be enough light left in the day after any delays crossing the Shurabad Pass to enjoy the first glimpse of the raging Pyanj River – a constant companion throughout a Pamir Hwy journey – at this viewpoint on the zigzag descent from Kulob to the Pyanj valley. The road eventually glides down to the water's edge and threads through the canyon-like landscape, with only the river dividing Tajikistan from Afghanistan. There is something mesmerising about following the paths of people on the other side of the river as they lead donkeys along perilous tracks or coax tired vehicles through the angry riverside waters from one stone-and-adobe village to the next. There are plenty of places along the Pamir Hwy at which the river narrows enough to make these communities seem within reach but there's nothing quite as exciting as the first glimpse of the Pyanj corridor from this point.
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Hissar Fort
Pictured on the 20TJS banknote and just 30km west of Dushanbe, the remains of this 18th-century fort make for an interesting day trip from the capital. All that survived a 1924 Russian assault is the twin-towered gateway but the site has plenty of atmosphere, not least as it is a popular escape from the city for locals. A 17th-century madrassa at the site contains a small museum with a fascinating relief model of Tajikistan demonstrating its 93% mountainous coverage. There are some excellent shops here for traditional crafts and enterprising locals offer short horseback rides (5TJS) mostly suitable for kids. To reach the fort, minibuses and shared taxis leave from Zarnisar Bazaar for Hisor. From here a shared taxi costs 5TJS. It's easier to hire a private taxi from Dushanbe (150TJS, 30 minutes).
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