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Central Switzerland

To the Swiss, Central Switzerland – green, mountainous and soothingly beautiful – is the essence of ‘Swissness’. It was here that the pact that kick-started a nation was signed in 1291; here that hero William Tell gave a rebel yell against Habsburg rule. Geographically, politically, spiritually, this is the heartland. Nowhere does the flag fly higher.

Locals swell with pride at Lake Lucerne: enigmatic in the cold mist of morning, molten gold in the dusky half-light. The dreamy city of Lucerne is small enough for old-world charm yet big enough to harbour designer hotels and a world-class gallery full of Picassos. From here, cruise to resorts such as Weggis and Brunnen, or hike Mt Pilatus and Mt Rigi. Northeast of Lucerne, Zug has Kirschtorte (cherry cake) as rich as its residents and medieval heritage. Come snow time, head to the Alps for Andermatt’s austere mountainscapes or Engelberg for powdery off-piste perfection.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Switzerland.

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Kapellbrücke
You haven’t really been to Lucerne until you have strolled the creaky 14th-century Kapellbrücke, spanning the Reuss River in the Old Town. The octagonal water tower is original, but its gabled roof is a modern reconstruction, rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1993. As you cross the bridge, note Heinrich Wägmann’s 17th-century triangular roof panels, showing important events from Swiss history and mythology. The icon is at its most photogenic when bathed in soft golden light at dusk.
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Sammlung Rosengart
Lucerne’s blockbuster cultural attraction is the Sammlung Rosengart, occupying a graceful neoclassical pile in the heart of town. It showcases the outstanding stash of Angela Rosengart, a Swiss art dealer and close friend of Picasso. Alongside works by the great Spanish master are paintings and sketches by Klee, Cézanne, Renoir, Chagall, Kandinsky, Miró, Matisse, Modigliani and Monet, among others. Complementing this collection are some 200 photographs by David Douglas Duncan documenting the last 17 years of Picasso's life. The photographs are a uniquely revealing series that portray the artist in his roles as an impish craftsman, lover, friend and father.
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Lion Monument
By far the most touching of the 19th-century sights that lured so many British to Lucerne is the Lion Monument. Lukas Ahorn carved this 10m-long sculpture of a dying lion into the rock face in 1820 to commemorate Swiss soldiers who died defending King Louis XVI during the French Revolution. For Narnia fans, it often evokes Aslan at the stone table.
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Museggmauer
For a bird’s-eye view over Lucerne’s rooftops to the glittering lake and mountains beyond, wander along the top of the old city walls that date back to 1386. A walkway is open between the Schirmerturm (tower), where you enter, and the Wachturm, from where you have to retrace your steps. You can also ascend and descend the Zytturm or Männliturm (the latter is further west and not connected to the ramparts walkway).
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Verkehrshaus
A great kid-pleaser, the fascinating interactive Verkehrshaus is deservedly Switzerland’s most popular museum. Alongside rockets, steam locomotives, aeroplanes, vintage cars and dugout canoes are hands-on activities, such as pedalo boats, flight simulators, broadcasting studios and a walkable 1:20,000-scale map of Switzerland. The museum also shelters a planetarium, Switzerland's largest 3D cinema and the Swiss Chocolate Adventure, a 20-minute ride that whirls visitors through multimedia exhibits on the origins, history, production and distribution of chocolate, from Ghana to Switzerland and beyond. The museum is 10 minutes from the city centre – take bus 6, 8 or 24, or an S3 train to the Verkehrshaus stop, or take a boat opposite the train station and disembark at Verkehrshaus-Lido.
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Kultur und Kongresszentrum
French architect Jean Nouvel’s waterfront arts and convention centre is a postmodern jaw-dropper in an otherwise historic city. Inside, the tall, narrow concert hall, partly built below the lake’s surface, is surrounded by a reverberation chamber and has an adjustable suspended ceiling, all creating a bubble of silence that results in near perfect acoustics. Countless accolades showered upon the hall have raised the profile of the Lucerne Festival, increasingly one of the highlights on the global music calendar. Check the website for complete opening hours.
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Old Town
The medieval Old Town, with its ancient rampart walls and towers, 15th-century buildings with painted facades and two covered bridges, is fascinating. Kapellbrücke, dating from 1333, is Lucerne’s best-known landmark. It’s famous for its distinctive water tower and the spectacular 1993 fire that nearly destroyed it. Look for the 17th-century pictorial panels under the roof. The Dance of Death panels under the roofline of Spreuerbrücke are a tad dark and dour.
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CabriO
This impressive double-decker cable car lets you head up top out into the open air for spectacular views as it whisks you over 1100 vertical metres from its Kälti base station at 711m. The journey takes 6½ minutes and if you're on top and it's windy, hang on to your hat. This is the world’s first cable car with a roofless upper deck.
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Stanserhornbahn Funicular
From 1893 to 1974, Stanserhorn was accessed from Stans in three sections by funicular trains. In 1974 the top two sections were replaced by an aerial cable car (which has since been replaced by the CabriO cable car), leaving only the section from Stans to Kälti operated by this lovely historical funicular. The original 1893 bottom station (450m) is still in use – it's a five-minute walk from Stans train station. Tickets are included with the CabriO cable car to the top.