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To the Swiss, Central Switzerland – green, mountainous and soothingly beautiful – is the essence of ‘Swissness’. It was here that the pact that kick-started a nation was signed in 1291; here that hero William Tell gave a rebel yell against Habsburg rule. Geographically, politically, spiritually, this is the heartland. Nowhere does the flag fly higher.
Locals swell with pride at Lake Lucerne: enigmatic in the cold mist of morning, molten gold in the dusky half-light. The dreamy city of Lucerne is small enough for old-world charm yet big enough to harbour designer hotels and a world-class gallery full of Picassos. From here, cruise to resorts such as Weggis and Brunnen, or hike Mt Pilatus and Mt Rigi. Northeast of Lucerne, Zug has Kirschtorte (cherry cake) as rich as its residents and medieval heritage. Come snow time, head to the Alps for Andermatt’s austere mountainscapes or Engelberg for powdery off-piste perfection.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Switzerland.
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Central Switzerland's tallest mountain, Mt Titlis, is known for the world's first revolving cable car. This was completed in 1992 and is still one of the few on the planet. It's just the last leg of a breathtaking three-stage journey. First, you board the TITLIS Xpress from Engelberg (1013m) to Trübsee (1800m) and on to Stand (2450m). Finally, in Stand you board the Rotair (only the cabin inside revolves) for the passage over the dazzling Titlis Glacier.
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You haven’t really been to Lucerne until you have strolled the creaky 14th-century Kapellbrücke, spanning the Reuss River in the Old Town. The octagonal water tower is original, but its gabled roof is a modern reconstruction, rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1993. As you cross the bridge, note Heinrich Wägmann’s 17th-century triangular roof panels, showing important events from Swiss history and mythology. The icon is at its most photogenic when bathed in soft golden light at dusk.
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A great kid-pleaser, the fascinating interactive Verkehrshaus is deservedly Switzerland’s most popular museum. Alongside rockets, steam locomotives, aeroplanes, vintage cars and dugout canoes are hands-on activities, such as pedalo boats, flight simulators, broadcasting studios and a walkable 1:20,000-scale map of Switzerland. The museum also shelters a planetarium, Switzerland's largest 3D cinema and the Swiss Chocolate Adventure, a 20-minute ride that whirls visitors through multimedia exhibits on the origins, history, production and distribution of chocolate, from Ghana to Switzerland and beyond.
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Lucerne’s blockbuster cultural attraction is the Sammlung Rosengart, occupying a graceful neoclassical pile in the heart of town. It showcases the outstanding stash of Angela Rosengart, a Swiss art dealer and close friend of Picasso. Alongside works by the great Spanish master are paintings and sketches by Klee, Cézanne, Renoir, Chagall, Kandinsky, Miró, Matisse, Modigliani and Monet, among others. Complementing this collection are some 200 photographs by David Douglas Duncan documenting the last 17 years of Picasso's life.
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French architect Jean Nouvel’s waterfront arts and convention centre is a postmodern jaw-dropper in an otherwise historic city. Inside, the tall, narrow concert hall, partly built below the lake’s surface, is surrounded by a reverberation chamber and has an adjustable suspended ceiling, all creating a bubble of silence that results in near perfect acoustics. Countless accolades showered upon the hall have raised the profile of the Lucerne Festival, increasingly one of the highlights on the global music calendar. Check the website for complete opening hours.
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The medieval Old Town, with its ancient rampart walls and towers, 15th-century buildings with painted facades and two covered bridges, is fascinating. Kapellbrücke, dating from 1333, is Lucerne’s best-known landmark. It’s famous for its distinctive water tower and the spectacular 1993 fire that nearly destroyed it. Look for the 17th-century pictorial panels under the roof. The Dance of Death panels under the roofline of Spreuerbrücke are a tad dark and dour.
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This teensy museum displays historical knives from prehistoric, Roman and medieval times, including folding precursors to the Victorinox classic. Touch-screen films in four languages chart the history of knives in general and Victorinox specifically. But the real highlight is the 'build-your-own-knife' section: for Sfr30 staff will help you construct your own souvenir Victorinox (ages six and over; reserve in advance).
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Follow the crowds flowing towards this baroque edifice, the 18th-century handiwork of Caspar Moosbrugger. The interior dances with colourful frescoes, stucco and gold swirls. Yet most pilgrims are oblivious to the marbled opulence, directing their prayers to the holiest of holies, the Black Madonna, a tiny statue in a chapel by the entrance.
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By far the most touching of the 19th-century sights that lured so many British to Lucerne is the Lion Monument. Lukas Ahorn carved this 10m-long sculpture of a dying lion into the rock face in 1820 to commemorate Swiss soldiers who died defending King Louis XVI during the French Revolution. For Narnia fans, it often evokes Aslan at the stone table.