Comillas

Sixteen kilometres west of Santillana through verdant countryside, Comillas is set across hilltops crowned by some of the most original and beautiful buildings in Cantabria. For these, the town is indebted to the first Marqués de Comillas (1817–83), who was born here as plain Antonio López, made a fortune in Cuba as a tobacco planter, shipowner, banker and slave trader, and then returned to commission leading Catalan Modernista architects to jazz up his hometown in the late 19th century. This, in turn, prompted the construction of other quirky mansions in Comillas. Adding to the town's charms are a lovely golden beach, a tiny fishing port and a pleasant, cobbled old centre.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Comillas.

  • Historic Building

    Palacio de Sobrellano

    With this marvellous 1888 building, the Marqués de Comillas’ summer palace, Modernista architect Joan Martorell truly managed to out-Gothic real Gothic. The interior can only be seen on 30-minute guided tours (in Spanish), run five to eight times a day: you’ll see the the grand central hall with sweeping carved-stone staircases; a reception/billiard room featuring an ornate wood-carved fireplace with dragons by the young Gaudí; beautiful stained-glass windows; and vibrant original murals detailing the marquis’ story.

  • Architecture

    Capricho de Gaudí

    Antoni Gaudí left few reminders of his genius beyond Catalonia, but of them the 1885 Capricho is easily the most flamboyant. This brick building, one of Gaudí’s earliest works and originally a summer playpad for the Marqués de Comillas’ sister-in-law’s brother, is striped all over the outside with ceramic bands of alternating sunflowers and green leaves. The elegant interior is comparatively restrained, with quirky touches including artesonado ceilings (interlaced beams with decorative insertions), stained-glass windows and slim spiral staircases.

  • Beach

    Playa Oyambre

    The 2km-long, soft-blonde Playa Oyambre, 5km west of Comillas, is a sandy dream protected by the Parque Natural Oyambre. It has frequently surfable waves, a couple of campgrounds and a dash of intriguing history as the emergency landing spot of the first ever USA–Spain flight (1929). Waves and wind can be strong: swim only when the green flags fly.

  • Architecture

    Antigua Universidad Pontificia

    Several Modernistas had a hand in this imposing neo-Gothic former seminary, looming over the west end of town. Domènech i Montaner contributed its medieval flavour. It’s now an international Spanish language and culture study centre, the Centro Universitario CIESE-Comillas. Thirty-minute visits to the elaborate interiors and patios are guided in Spanish (with leaflets in English available). Access to the grounds on foot is free.

  • Cemetery

    Cemetery

    Comillas' cemetery, around the ruined medieval parish church, was remodelled by Catalan Modernista Lluís Domènech i Montaner in 1893. It’s overlooked by a chilling white-marble statue of the exterminating angel, sword in hand, by Catalan sculptor Josep Llimona. The place has a distinctly spooky aura, especially when floodlit after dark.

  • Chapel

    Capilla-Panteón de Sobrellano

    On a grassy hillside beside the Marqués de Comillas’ summer palace is the marquis’ family tomb, an intricate ‘mini-cathedral’ designed by Joan Martorell, with some fine sculpture inside. Consecrated in 1881, it was the first Modernista building to appear in Comillas. Visits are by 20-minute guided tour in Spanish, starting shortly after the finish of tours of the neighbouring Palacio de Sobrellano (where tickets are sold).

  • Fountain

    Fuente de los Tres Caños

    In the heart of town, this elaborate triple-tiered fountain and lamp post was created in 1899 by Modernista Lluís Domènech i Montaner and decorated with intricate floral motifs.

  • Church

    Iglesia de San Cristóbal

    Comillas’ main church was constructed in the 17th century – the townspeople, offended, paid for it from their own pockets after the Duque de Infantado’s retinue refused to share a pew with common folk for Sunday mass in the old church. Pop inside if you find it open.