Getty Images
Sanlúcar is one of those lesser-known Andalucian towns that pleasantly surprise. Firstly, there’s the gastronomy: Sanlúcar cooks up some of the region's best seafood on a hallowed waterside strip called Bajo de Guía. Secondly, Sanlúcar's unique location at the northern tip of the esteemed Sherry Triangle enables its earthy bodegas, nestled in the somnolent, monument-strewn old town, to produce the much-admired one-of-a-kind manzanilla. Thirdly, plonked at the mouth of the Río Guadalquivir estuary, Sanlúcar provides a quieter, less touristed entry point into the ethereal Parque Nacional de Doñana than the more popular western access points in Huelva province.
As if that weren’t enough, the town harbours a proud nautical history. Both Christopher Columbus, on his third sojourn, and Portuguese mariner Ferdinand Magellan struck out from here on their voyages of discovery.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Winery
Now run by the eighth generation, family-owned 1792-founded Bodegas Hidalgo still produces the famed La Gitana manzanillas that made its name, along with VORS sherries such as a small-scale amontillado. Detailed two-hour introductory tours are outstanding, while specialised visits include sunset tastings among the vines (€40) and summer night tours (€35).
Palace
Just off the old town's Calle Caballeros, this rambling palace was the home of the Duques de Medina Sidonia, the aristocratic family that once owned more of Spain than anyone else. The mostly 17th-century house, of 12th-century origin, bursts with antiques, and paintings by Goya, Zurbarán and other Spanish greats. Stop for coffee and cakes in its old-world cafe, with tables amid palm- and hibiscus-sprinkled gardens.
Church
Fronting Calle Caballeros, this medieval church stands out among Sanlúcar’s many others for its elaborate 1360s Gothic-Mudéjar portal and its rich interior embellishment, particularly the Mudéjar artesonado (ceiling of interlaced beams), one of the region's best preserved. The bell tower was built reusing a tower from the Moorish alcázar (fortress) that once stood here.
Winery
With its Barrio Alto 1821-founded bodega, Barbadillo was the first family to bottle Sanlúcar's famous manzanilla and also produces one of Spain’s most popular vinos. Guided one-hour tours end with a four-wine tasting. This evocative 19th-century building also houses the Museo de la Manzanilla.
Castle
Surrounded by Barbadillo bodegas, Sanlúcar’s restored 15th-century castle has sprawling views across the Guadalquivir delta from its hexagonal Torre del Homenaje (keep), and displays military uniforms and weapons and exhibits on the town's rich seafaring history.
Museum
Within the old town's Bodegas Barbadillo complex, this 19th-century building houses a fascinating museum tracing the two-century history of Sanlúcar's celebrated manzanilla.
Palace
At the top of Calle Cuesta de Belén you'll spot this beautiful neo-Mudéjar old-town palace, built as a 19th-century summer home for the aristocratic Montpensier family. Washed in horizontal red and yellow stripes, it's now Sanlúcar’s town hall; you can only visit the gardens.