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Jeollabuk-do

The small south-western province of Jeollabuk-do (전라북도) punches above its weight. At the centre is the capital Jeonju, famous for its hanok maeul, a village of hundreds of traditional tile-roofed buildings that house restaurants, cafes and teahouses. Koreans also call Jeonju, a Unesco-listed 'City of Gastronomy', the country's number-one foodie destination: eat once in Jeonju, they say, and you're spoiled for life. It makes sense: this fertile green province is an agricultural heartland whose fresh produce stars in local dishes.

Much of rural Jeollabuk-do is parkland, which means, if you tire of Jeonju's old-world charms, you can stretch your legs on any number of fantastic hiking trails, from the steep peaks of Naejangsan National Park to the gentle hills of Seonunsan Provincial Park. There's also skiing on the slopes of Muju to the east and sandy beaches on the West Sea, from where you can catch ferries to sleepy islands.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Jeollabuk-do.

  • See

    Jeonju Hanok Maeul

    This maeul (village) has more than 800 hanok (traditional wooden homes), making it one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Virtually all of them contain guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and hanbok (traditional clothing) rental shops. Though super-duper touristy, the cobblestone lanes and unusual architectural lines coupled with wisps of smoke from octopus grills all come together to create an enchanting experience, especially at dusk when an orange hue paints the village with a soft light. If the thought of afternoon crowds makes the journey here seem less fun, escape to less-explored areas in and around the village. Head to Girin-daero, cross the road and admire the street art in Jaman Village. Walk down the hill and turn right on to the path that runs along the north side of the river. Take time to explore the back alleys and discover hidden gems like Cho Ga Jib. Continuing down the main path beyond Cheongyeonru's gazebo, head to the 2nd floor of the Nambu-sijang for a drink or meal. Some places in the village host workshops (on making traditional paper or alcohol, for example). These usually require advance reservations and a minimum of two people; ask at a tourist information centre.

  • See

    Jaman Village

    Eclectic, colourful murals adorn the walls of this shantytown, on a hill overlooking Jeonju's hanok maeul. It's slowly gentrifying, meaning several spots are now home to galleries and cafes, the best of which is Kkojittappong, a terrace cafe that looks like a child's dream house.

  • See

    Gyeonggijeon

    This palace is home to shrines, storehouses and guardrooms relating to the Confucian rituals once held here. There is also a replica portrait of Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1910), whose family came from Jeonju. Teeming with antiquity, the palace – originally constructed in 1410 and reconstructed in 1614 – is a popular spot for selfies. You can hire costumes, such as traditional hanbok garments, for period photos. English-language tours are held at 11am and 2pm daily.

  • See

    Deokjin Park

    Join Korean couples who hire paddle boats in this charming park; particularly nice are the views of lotus lilies in July. Buses run here from the Jeondong Catholic Church bus stop.

  • See

    Yeomyeong Camera Museum

    About 400 vintage cameras are on display in this small but worthwhile museum, along with projectors and black-and-white images.

  • See

    Pungnam-mun

    This stone-and-wood gateway is all that remains of Jeonju’s fortress wall. First built in 1398 but renovated many times since, it's now the ornate centrepiece of a busy roundabout. It's also a useful landmark for two sights: the Nambu market, a couple of blocks south, and the road north to the Gaeksa district.

  • See

    Cheongyeonru Gazebo

    Grab some street food and bring it here for a picnic in this large, public gazebo on the river.

  • See

    Jeondong Catholic Church

    The easiest landmark to find around the hanok village is a tall, red-brick church built by French missionary Xavier Baudounet where Korean Catholics were executed in 1781 and 1801. It's closed to the public except during mass, when you can respectfully peek at the stained-glass windows. Those executed here were later interred on the hill southeast of hanok maeul known today as Martyrs' Mountain. There are 13 crosses on the hillside marking the burial spot and a small church, accessible by a trail.

  • See

    Jeonju Hanji Museum

    Adjacent to a modern-day paper factory, this museum covers the history and processes involved in making hanji (traditional Korean paper) and also shows some of the impressive things that can be created with it. At the end, you get to try making your own. A 20-minute northbound bus ride from Jeondong Catholic Church will leave you with long walk to the museum. Consider a short taxi ride (₩5000) instead.