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Jeollabuk-do

The small south-western province of Jeollabuk-do (전라북도) punches above its weight. At the centre is the capital Jeonju, famous for its hanok maeul, a village of hundreds of traditional tile-roofed buildings that house restaurants, cafes and teahouses. Koreans also call Jeonju, a Unesco-listed 'City of Gastronomy', the country's number-one foodie destination: eat once in Jeonju, they say, and you're spoiled for life. It makes sense: this fertile green province is an agricultural heartland whose fresh produce stars in local dishes.

Much of rural Jeollabuk-do is parkland, which means, if you tire of Jeonju's old-world charms, you can stretch your legs on any number of fantastic hiking trails, from the steep peaks of Naejangsan National Park to the gentle hills of Seonunsan Provincial Park. There's also skiing on the slopes of Muju to the east and sandy beaches on the West Sea, from where you can catch ferries to sleepy islands.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Jeollabuk-do.

  • See

    Jeonju Hanok Maeul

    This maeul (village) has more than 800 hanok (traditional wooden homes), making it one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Virtually all of them contain guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and hanbok (traditional clothing) rental shops. Though super-duper touristy, the cobblestone lanes and unusual architectural lines coupled with wisps of smoke from octopus grills all come together to create an enchanting experience, especially at dusk when an orange hue paints the village with a soft light.

  • See

    Seonun-sa

    This Zen temple, founded in 577 and last rebuilt in 1720, is nestled among verdant hills. Just behind the temple is a 500-year-old camellia forest (동백 나무 숲) that flowers around the end of April. Beyond, hiking trails go up to outlying hermitage, such as Seoksang-am. Seonun-sa has a great templestay (₩50,000) which includes a 'walking meditation' trip up to the hermitages.

  • See

    Tap-sa

    This temple has a unique sculptural garden of 80 stone towers or pinnacles that were piled up by a Buddhist mystic, Yi Kapmyong (1860–1957). Up to 15m in height, they represent religious ideas about the universe and miraculously never seem to crumble, although no cement has been used. They're an intriguing sight, evoking the atmosphere of a surreal world. Located inside Maisan Provincial Park, at the base of the 'female ear' of Maisan mountain.

  • See

    Jaman Village

    Eclectic, colourful murals adorn the walls of this shantytown, on a hill overlooking Jeonju's hanok maeul. It's slowly gentrifying, meaning several spots are now home to galleries and cafes, the best of which is Kkojittappong, a terrace cafe that looks like a child's dream house.

  • See

    Deogyusan National Park

    This national park is a hiker's playground and home of Deogyusan Muju ski resort. Gucheon-dong, a small tourist village, marks the start of the park’s best hike (two hours, 6km). The trail follows the river and valley past 20 beauty spots to a small temple, Baengnyeon-sa, and finishes with a steep, 1½-hour ascent of Hyangjeok-bong (향적봉; 1614m).

  • See

    Moaksan Provincial Park

    This park, which contains Moaksan (794m), is a popular destination for hikers on weekends. The main attraction is the temple, Geumsan-sa, which dates to AD 599. While there are no buildings here nearly that old, the three-storey Mireukjeon dates to 1635 and has an impressive air of antiquity. Inside is a looming, golden statue of the Maitreya Buddha – the Buddha of the future.

  • See

    Gyeonggijeon

    This palace is home to shrines, storehouses and guardrooms relating to the Confucian rituals once held here. There is also a replica portrait of Yi Seong-gye, the founder of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1910), whose family came from Jeonju. Teeming with antiquity, the palace – originally constructed in 1410 and reconstructed in 1614 – is a popular spot for selfies. You can hire costumes, such as traditional hanbok garments, for period photos. English-language tours are held at 11am and 2pm daily.

  • See

    Naejang-sa

    Naejang-sa has an enviable location, in the centre of Naejangsan National Park and encircled by towering peaks. Though the temple dates to AD 636, the buildings seen today are mostly recent reconstructions. There is a hermitage, Wonjeok-am, halfway up the ridge.

  • See

    Moyang Fortress

    An impressive structure built in 1453, Moyang Fortress has a 1.6km-long wall surrounding a complex of reconstructed buildings, worth touring if you have a couple of hours to spare. Local legend says if a woman walks three times around the wall with a stone on her head during a leap year, she will never become ill and will enter paradise.