Jeollabuk-do

This maeul (village) has more than 800 hanok (traditional wooden homes), making it one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Virtually all of them contain guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and hanbok (traditional clothing) rental shops. Though super-duper touristy, the cobblestone lanes and unusual architectural lines coupled with wisps of smoke from octopus grills all come together to create an enchanting experience, especially at dusk when an orange hue paints the village with a soft light.

The only Korean ski resort located in a national park, Muju Deogyusan Resort comprises 30 runs including the highest altitude and longest slope (6.1km) in the country. Snowboarding, sledding, night skiing and lessons are on offer. Equipment can be rented (largest boot size 300 mm).

Seonyudo (선유도) is a giant green park in the middle of the ocean with beaches for lazing, peaks for climbing and hamlets for exploring. It's one of four islands connected by a network of roads and bridges tethered to the Saemangeum Sea Wall. Quiet green space for picnics or camping is available if you get off the well-worn paths, but that may change. The last time we visited, construction projects were paving the way for more vehicular access, which could change the nature of the island.

If lounging on the 1.6km sandy beach seems too sedate, discover what's up, over and around Mangju-bong (망주봉), a low-rise twin peak (152m) that requires a rope to reach the top. For something less strenuous, rent a bike (₩10,000 per day) or scooter (₩30,000 for two hours) from a shop near the information booth on Jangjado and ride to Sinsido.

This Zen temple, founded in 577 and last rebuilt in 1720, is nestled among verdant hills. Just behind the temple is a 500-year-old camellia forest (동백 나무 숲) that flowers around the end of April. Beyond, hiking trails go up to outlying hermitage, such as Seoksang-am. Seonun-sa has a great templestay (₩50,000) which includes a 'walking meditation' trip up to the hermitages.

The name of Maisan Provincial Park (마이산도립공원) means ‘Horse Ears Mountain’, which refers to two extraordinary rocky peaks as they appear from the town of Jinan. The east peak is Sutmai-san (Male Mai-san; 678m) while the west peak is Ammai-san (Female Mai-san; 685m). Both 'ears' are made of conglomerate rock, which is rare in Korea. The temple, Tap-sa, at the base of the female ear, has a unique sculptural garden of 80 stone towers or pinnacles that were piled up by a Buddhist mystic, Yi Kapmyong (1860–1957).

An easy 1½-hour, 1.7km hike with a splendid view at the top starts by Tap-sa and takes you back to the car park at the entrance. In April, the cherry trees on the road leading to the park's southern entrance and the nearby lake burst into blossom.

History buffs will want to stroll the hills surrounding Gochang and ponder the mystery of 440 dolmens, prehistoric tombs from the Bronze and Iron Ages now registered with Unesco. The site includes a small museum, behind which six trails lead in and around huge boulders dotting the countryside.

One of the region's best hiking spots, Naejangsan (내장산국립공원) is particularly famous for its brilliant display of fall leaves in October. Expect the park to be absolutely packed then.

The park's mountainous ridge is shaped like an amphitheatre. A spider’s web of trails leads up to the ridge, but the fastest way up is by cable car. The hike around the rim is strenuous, going up and down six main peaks and numerous small ones before reaching Seorae-bong (622m), but has splendid views on a fine day.