This maeul (village) has more than 800 hanok (traditional wooden homes), making it one of the largest such concentrations in the country. Virtually all of them contain guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and hanbok (traditional clothing) rental shops. Though super-duper touristy, the cobblestone lanes and unusual architectural lines coupled with wisps of smoke from octopus grills all come together to create an enchanting experience, especially at dusk when an orange hue paints the village with a soft light. If the thought of afternoon crowds makes the journey here seem less fun, escape to less-explored areas in and around the village. Head to Girin-daero, cross the road and admire the street art in Jaman Village. Walk down the hill and turn right on to the path that runs along the north side of the river. Take time to explore the back alleys and discover hidden gems like Cho Ga Jib. Continuing down the main path beyond Cheongyeonru's gazebo, head to the 2nd floor of the Nambu-sijang for a drink or meal. Some places in the village host workshops (on making traditional paper or alcohol, for example). These usually require advance reservations and a minimum of two people; ask at a tourist information centre.