Samoa

Serene but spirited, wild yet well-manicured, hushed but birthed by volcanic explosions; stunning Samoa is a paradisaical paradox. Despite its intense natural beauty – all iridescent seas, jade jungles and crystal waterfalls – this is a humble place, devoid of mega-resorts and flashy attractions, but with welcomes as warm as the island sun.

Geographically and culturally, this small nation is considered the heart of Polynesia. Though the missionaries of the 1800s were enormously influential, the country has nevertheless clung to Fa’a Samoa (the Samoan Way), making it one of the most authentic and traditional of all Pacific societies: in some parts of the islands you’re more likely to see someone juggling fire than a house with walls.

Despite its isolation, Samoa offers accessible adventures. From the relative ruckus of Apia to the soul-stirring silence of Savai’i, you’ll find a paradise that is safe, sweet and easy to get around.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Samoa.

  • Landmark

    To Sua Ocean Trench

    This outrageously photogenic spot is a Samoan icon; skip it to your everlasting regret. Though the first thing you'll see upon entering the grounds is To Le Sua (a smaller, drier depression), it's To Sua that is the star of the show: more akin to a giant sinkhole than a trench, its sheer, green-draped rock walls plummet 20-odd metres to the almost hallucinatory-blue waters of the magnificent pool below. Swimming access is via a precipitous but sturdy wooden ladder; believe us, it's worth the clamber.

  • Archaeological Site

    Pulemelei Mound

    Polynesia’s largest ancient structure is the intriguing, pyramidal Pulemelei Mound (sometimes called Tia Seu Ancient Mound). Constructed sometime between AD 1100 and 1400, it measures 65m by 60m at its base and rises to a height of more than 12m. Its original purpose continues to baffle experts. It’s a stirring place, with views from its stony summit to the ocean and into thick rainforest. The surrounding area is presumably covered in important archaeological finds but, for now, the jungle hides its secrets.

  • Market

    Maketi Fou

    Abuzz with local merchants, shoppers, loiterers and men slamming it down over games of mu (Samoan checkers), this 24-hour market is a must-see shopping and social experience. Though primarily a produce market, pretty much everything is sold here. Souvenir hunters will find siapo (decorated bark cloth), woodcarvings, coconut-shell jewellery, lava-lava (wraparound sarongs) and T-shirts. A cold niu (drinking coconut) will give you strength to shop on, despite the oppressive humidity of the place.

  • Museum

    Robert Louis Stevenson Museum & Mt Vaea National Reserve

    The Scottish author's former residence is an enchanting estate, with a centrepiece lawn and perfectly manicured gardens. Stevenson's mansion, substantially destroyed in the cyclones in the early 1990s, was lovingly rebuilt and opened as a museum in 1994 on the centenary of Stevenson’s death. Access is by a half-hour tour that leads through rooms filled with antiques and sepia family photographs.

  • Volcano

    Mt Matavanu Crater

    If you've got a 4WD and a sturdy pair of boots, a visit to the volcano responsible for the devastation visited upon northeastern Savai’i a century ago is worth a few hours of your time. In addition to the fun of the very bumpy ride and pleasant views, you'll also get to meet ‘Da Craterman’, who maintains the track and collects the fee for his village (charming as he is, don't let him charge you more than ST20 per person).

  • National Park

    O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park

    The name of this 29-sq-km national park means ‘from the coast to the mountaintop’. There are some superb (if rough) hikes to be had here. A trail (six hours return) winds through thick jungle to Pe’ape’a Cave, a large lava tube inhabited by pe’ape’a (swiftlets); bring a torch. From here, the hardcore can continue along a heavily overgrown trail to Ofa Waterfall (three days return). For a less intense tramp, the 700m Ma Tree Walk ends at a gigantic rainforest tree with huge buttress roots.

  • Forest

    Uafato Conservation Area

    The 14 sq km of wild and rugged terrain that comprise the Uafato Conservation Area boast untouched rainforest that marches down from Upolu’s northeastern hills to dip its toes in the ocean. Flora lovers can track down a rare stand of ifilele (the tree used for ‘ ava bowls), while fauna fans can observe numerous bird and bat species going about their aerial business. Uafato village is known for its traditional carvers, who are usually willing to demonstrate their art to visitors.

  • Museum

    Robert Louis Stevenson Museum

    The Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is set in the Scottish author's beautifully restored former residence, Villa Vailima. Stevenson had the mansion built in 1890 after deciding the climate of 'Upolu might ameliorate his tuberculosis, but he died there a mere four years later. Stevenson and his wife Fanny Osborne are buried in the adjacent Mt Vaea Scenic Reserve.

  • Cave

    Dwarf’s Cave

    This intriguing subterranean lava tube leads downwards as if to the centre of the earth. The cave is named after a legendary group of dwarves, who apparently still live in its depths, and leave the occasional footprint. It’s said that no one – except maybe the dwarves – has reached the end of it, and your guides (the village matai or local boys) will keep leading you through its prodigious depths, crossed by underground rivers, until you tell them to turn around.

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