St Petersburg

In mid-June the sun slumps lazily towards the horizon, but never fully sets, meaning that the magical nights are a wonderful whitish-grey. At this time Petersburgers indulge themselves in plenty of all-night revelry, several arts festivals take place including the spectacular Scarlet Sails. Though it’s the busiest time to visit the city, and most hotels are booked up weeks in advance, there’s nothing quite like it, so don’t miss out – even if you come in May or July you’ll be impressed by how late the sun stays out!

Perhaps the world’s greatest museum, this iconic establishment’s vast collection is quite simply mind-boggling, with Egyptian mummies, more Rembrandts than the Louvre, and a collection of early-20th-century art that is unrivalled by almost any other in the world. As if this wasn’t enough, your entry ticket allows you to walk around the fascinating apartments and dazzling staterooms of the Romanovs. On top of this, there are still other Hermitage sites: the Winter Palace of Peter I, General Staff Building, Menshikov Palace, Imperial Porcelain factory and the excellent Hermitage Storage Facility.

No other viewpoint of the historic centre beats the one from the rotunda surrounding the stunning gold dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral, which rises majestically over the uniformly sized Italianate palaces and mansions around the Admiralty. Well worth the climb up the 262 steps, a panorama of the city opens up to you – with fantastic views over the river, the Winter Palace and the Bronze Horseman. The cathedral’s interior is also well worth seeing, with a wonderfully over-the-top iconostasis framed by columns of marble, malachite and lazurite.

Even though the Hermitage is unrivalled as St Petersburg’s most impressive museum, that shouldn’t stop you from visiting this superb treasure trove of Russian art, spread out over four stunning palaces in the centre of the city. The main building, the Mikhailovsky Palace, presents a fascinating collection of Russian art from medieval icons to 20th-century avant-garde masterpieces, while the Marble Palace houses a wing of the Ludwig Museum with a focus on contemporary works, and the Stroganov Palace has some of the most spectacular interiors in the city.

As much a symbol of the city as the Winter Palace, the spellbinding Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood never fails to impress. The church was built to commemorate the death of Tsar Alexander II, who, in an event that gave the church its unusual name, was attacked here by a terrorist group and later died of his injuries in 1881. Despite its grisly heritage, the glittering, multicoloured onion domes, and intricate interior and exterior mosaics are quite simply stunning, and have to be seen to be believed.

Arguably the most beautiful of the tsarist palace areas that surround St Petersburg, Tsarskoe Selo can be an idyllic place for a day trip. Arrive in good time to see the lavish interiors of the Catherine Palace, including the famous Amber Room, enjoy the gorgeous formal gardens and have a picnic in the landscaped park where Catherine the Great so loved to walk. When it gets impossibly busy at the height of summer, retreat to the nearby scenic estate and palace of Pavlovsk, a beautiful place to escape the crowds.

What could be more Russian than seeing a ballet or opera at the city’s famous Mariinsky Theatre? Formerly known as the Kirov, where Soviet stars such as Nureyev and Baryshnikov danced, the Mariinsky has one of the world's premier ballet troupes as well as a superb orchestra led by artistic director Valery Gergiev. Tickets for productions here are always sought-after, so book online before you travel to ensure you don’t miss out. Even if such performances are not your thing, the historic building is a sight in its own right.

The city’s first major building is on little Zayachy Island. It’s immediately recognisable from its extraordinary golden spire, visible all over the city centre at an incredible (for the 18th century) 122m high. A visit to this large complex is a must for history buffs: here you'll find the tombs of the Romanovs and an excellent history museum; make time, too, for a walk along the ramparts. You can even relax on a surprisingly decent beach with stellar views across to the Strelka and Hermitage!

St Petersburg is a city that is best appreciated from the water. Despite Peter’s efforts, public boat transport by river and canal never quite caught on in the ‘Venice of the North’. Even so, don't miss a canal-boat tour or, better yet, paddling yourself in a kayak to see some of the city's architectural gems from a different perspective. While cruising the canals is only possible outside the winter months, if you're here when they're frozen over don't miss wandering along their banks for a visual treat.

For a real cultural immersion, head to one of St Petersburg's bani (steam baths), such as the classy Degtyarniye Baths, for the detox of a lifetime. In between basking in the infernal wet heat of the parilka (steam room), having your toxins removed through a sound birch-twig whipping and then plunging into ice-cold water, this is a great place to relax and chat with locals for whom the weekly banya (steam bath) is considered to be almost a sacred rite.