This defiant island of Russian modernity and Europeanness is a vibrant arts centre filled with cool bars, restaurants and galleries. With an aptly revolutionary name, the former Red October chocolate factory looks straight into the Kremlin's eyes – a vivid reminder that Russia is not all about totalitarian control and persecution.
Made of red brick, like its imperial vis-à-vis across the river, the factory was built by German national Theodor Ferdinand von Einem and proudly bore his name until the Bolshevik takeover. Production ended in the noughties, when its conversion into Moscow's hottest restaurant and entertainment area began. These days it is a key part of the hipster belt stretching along the river into Gorky Park and beyond. Come here to rub shoulders with Moscow's smart, cool and beautiful in one of the rooftop bars or check out an exhibition at Lumiere Brothers Photography Centre.
A huge power-station building here was under reconstruction at the time of writing, slated to open as another major modern art venue in 2019 under the name of GES-2.