Moscow

This ancient fortress is the founding site of Moscow and the ultimate symbol of political power in Russia. Within its ancient walls you can admire the artistry of Russia’s greatest icon painters, shed a tear for Russia’s great and tragic rulers, peer down the barrel of the gargantuan Tsar Cannon and gawk at the treasure trove that fuelled a revolution. On your way out, admire the bouquets left by newlyweds and scrutinise the perfect synchronicity of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Stepping onto Red Square never ceases to inspire, with the tall towers and imposing walls of the Kremlin, the playful jumble of patterns and colours adorning St Basil’s Cathedral, the majestic red bricks of the State History Museum and the elaborate edifice of GUM, all encircling a vast stretch of cobblestones. Individually they are impressive, but all together, the ensemble is electrifying. Red Square should be among your first stops in Moscow. Return at night to see the square empty of crowds and the buildings awash in lights.

An evening at the Bolshoi Theatre is the ultimate 'special occasion' in the capital. Ever since its opening in 1856, the neoclassical theatre has offered a magical setting for a spectacle, whether ballet or opera. The main stage still sparkles brightly, with the theatre space draped in rich red velour and glittering with gilded mouldings, but it has also been updated with the latest technologies. The historic theatre is the premier place to see the Bolshoi Ballet – one of the leading ballet companies in the country (and the world).

Back in the day, Gorky Park was famous as a setting for a spy novel, but nowadays it is Moscow's hippest, most happening hotspot. From morning (when runners ply the riverside path) to night (when dancers move to sultry music), the hipsters have taken over. In fact, the whole length of the Krymskaya nab – from Red October to Vorobyovy Gory – has been redesigned into a chain of sparkling fountains, sport courts, outdoor art exhibits and summer cafes. From May to September, there's no better place to be.

Nothing exemplifies postindustrial cool like the art complexes and design centres that have proliferated in the capital's former factories and warehouses. The place that started the trend is Winzavod, a former wine-bottling factory that now houses cutting-edge art galleries. Since that initial success, many other factories have followed suit. Flakon was a crystal production plant, but now it's a centre for design and architecture. A former bread factory, Khlebozavod 9 bustles with boutiques and trendy cafes. And the list goes on. This is contemporary, creative Moscow at its best.

The Moscow metro is at once a history lesson and an art museum (not to mention a pretty efficient form of transportation). Construction started in the 1930s and it continues today. The design of the stations and the direction of the expansion tell a story about Moscow in the 20th and 21st centuries. Even more intriguing is the amazing artwork and architectural design that characterises the stations, many of which are constructed from granite and marble, and are adorned with mosaics, bas-reliefs and other detailing.

The memorable Russian-Revival building on Lavrushinsky per is Moscow’s largest art museum and the world's premier collection of Russian art, covering the span of Russian art history from ancient icons to avant-garde. (Indeed, the Tretyakov’s second building on Krymsky val continues further into the 20th century with supremetism, constructivism and, of course, socialist realism.) The Tretyakov is famed for its impressive collection of wonderful realist paintings by the Peredvizhniki, but the museum also contains show-stopping examples of Russian Revival and art nouveau works.

What better way to cope with big-city stress than to have it steamed, sweated, washed and beaten out of you? The banya is a uniquely Russian experience that will leave you feeling clean, refreshed and relaxed. In winter, the tension of constant cold is released by the hot, steamy bath, while a beating with birch branches helps to improve circulation. But even in warmer temperatures, the Russian bathhouse experience is refreshing and reinvigorating. Sanduny is Moscow’s oldest bathhouse – a luxurious setting in which to indulge in this national pastime.

Avoid traffic jams, feel the breeze on your face and get a new perspective on the city’s most famous sights when you see them from one of the ferry boats that ply the Moscow River. The tours provide a wonderful overview of the city, cruising past Novodevichy Convent, Gorky Park, the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the Kremlin and Novospassky Monastery. Incidentally, if you purchase a day pass, the ferry can also be a useful form of transport from one sight to another.

Moscow may not be an obvious choice for culinary travel ('eat up your beets!'). But nowadays, the capital delights visitors with opportunities to sample a rich, diverse and delectable cuisine that's truly come into its own. The temptations are many: old-fashioned haute-russe delicacies enjoyed by oligarchs of old; satisfying retro dishes at nostalgic Soviet-themed restaurants; and many fresh, modern approaches by innovative chefs emphasising local ingredients. Moscow is also a prime spot to sample the tantalising fare from Central Asia and the Caucasus. Priatnogo appetita!