The 14th-century cathedral is the most important historic sight in town. Though badly damaged in 1945, it has been rebuilt close to its original form. For such a massive building, it has a surprisingly light-filled interior, illuminated by its extremely tall and narrow windows of beautifully patterned stained glass. Its colossal two conjoined towers occupy the whole width of the building, and the facade is a striking composition of windows placed haphazardly.
No, you haven’t had too much vodka, those columns on the right side of the nave really are leaning. But don’t worry, you don’t have to rush out to avoid being crushed – they’ve been that way since the 16th century. Still, the impression they create is slightly unnerving.
Old fittings include three 16th-century triptychs and a unique Gothic wooden chandelier (1523) in the central nave. There are some even older objects, such as the bronze baptismal font (1355) featuring scenes of Christ’s life; a 4m-high, seven-armed candelabrum (1327); and the stalls in the chancel (1340). Outside is a striking modern monument celebrating 1000 years of Polish Catholicism; the design, a symbolic split cross joined by a peace dove, depicts influential rulers Bolesław Chrobrego and Otto III.
Despite the short opening times, you can actually wander in whenever you like. However you'll have to time your visit well to enjoy the views from the tower.