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Looking like a chunk of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic and anchored itself onto the Bay of Kotor, Perast (Пераст) hums with melancholy memories of the days when it was rich and powerful. Despite having only one main street, this tiny town boasts 16 churches and 17 formerly grand palazzi. While some are just enigmatic ruins sprouting bougainvillea and wild fig, others are caught up in the whirlwind of renovation that has hit the town.
The town slopes down from the highway to a narrow waterfront road (Obala Marka Martinovića) that runs along its length. At its heart is St Nicholas' Church, set on a small square lined with date palms and the bronze busts of famous citizens.
Perast's most famous landmarks aren't on land at all: two peculiarly picturesque islands with equally peculiar histories.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Perast.
Island
This picturesque island was artificially created (on 22 July 1452, to be precise) around a rock where an image of the Madonna was found; every year on that same day, the locals row over with stones to continue the task. In summer, boats line up on the Perast waterfront to ferry people there and back (€5 return); off season, you may need to ask around.
Church
This large church has never been completed, and given that it was commenced in the 17th century and the bay’s Catholic community has declined markedly since then, one suspects it never will be. Its treasury contains beautifully embroidered vestments and the remains of various saints. Climb the imposing 55m bell tower (€1) for impressive views over the bay.
Island
Sveti Djordje, rising from a natural reef, is the smaller of Perast's two islands. It houses a Benedictine monastery shaded by cypresses and a large cemetery, earning it the local nickname 'Island of the Dead'. Legend has it that the island is cursed...but it looks pretty heavenly to us. The island can only be admired from afar; visitors aren't encouraged.
Museum
The Renaissance-baroque Bujović Palace, dating from 1694, has been lovingly preserved and converted into a museum showcasing the town’s proud seafaring history. It’s worth visiting, less for the portraits of ships and bewhiskered gents, and more for the building itself – and for the wondrous photo opportunities afforded by its balcony.