Rodrigues

There are 17 small islands sprinkled around Rodrigues' lagoon and perhaps the most interesting of these is Île aux Cocos. Around 1.5km long, and 150m wide at its broadest point, Île aux Cocos is a nature reserve and the only island in the Indian Ocean on which four seabirds – the lesser noddy, brown noddy, fairy tern and sooty tern – all breed. The southern quarter of the island is fenced off as a restricted zone. Elsewhere there is a virgin quality to the place – the lesser noddies and fairy terns are remarkably tame, just as all wildlife (including the ill-fated dodo) was when the first sailors arrived on Mauritius and Rodrigues.

The reserve is overseen by Discovery Rodrigues – staff meet all boat arrivals and give a brief (and mostly French) overview of the island's more interesting features. The outfit does not, however, organise the boat trips – you will need to make arrangements through your hotel, a tour operator or directly with boat owners.

A trip to Île aux Cocos will cost around Rs 1500 per person if you organise it through your hotel, but it will cost significantly less (Rs 1000 to Rs 1200) if you go directly to the boat owner. This price includes the boat trip, park admission and a picnic lunch.

Most trips depart from Pointe du Diable, though check with the boat owner when making the booking. If you don't have your own wheels, the owners may be able to arrange a pick-up from your hotel. The departure time could be anywhere from 7am to 10am depending on the tides, and the trip takes an hour each way. You'll probably end up spending around three hours on the island – bring your swimmers.

Boat owners we recommend include:

• Rico François Departs Pointe du Diable.
• Tonio Jolicouer Departs Pointe du Diable.
• Berraca Tours Departs Pointe du Diable.
• Joe 'Cool' Departs Pointe du Diable.
• Christophe Meunier Departs Anse aux Anglais. Christophe uses a sailing boat (rather than one with an outboard motor) and sometimes factors in extra time for snorkelling.

In 1691 François Leguat wrote that there were so many tortoises on Rodrigues that 'one can take more than a hundred steps on their shell without touching the ground'. Sadly the Rodrigues version of the giant tortoise became extinct, but this reserve is recreating the Eden described by the island's early explorers. Hundreds of tortoises from elsewhere (the outcome of a breeding program) roam the grounds, and more than 100,000 indigenous trees have been planted. Cave visits are also possible.

The Saturday market is as busy as Rodrigues gets and it's the best place on the island to shop for fresh produce and souvenirs. It's open the rest of the week but really gears up on Saturday, when much of the island turns out. It's next to the bridge near the post office. Turn up later than 10am and you'll wonder what all the fuss is about.

The island's most famous walk (No 4 on the Carte Verte map) is the classic, roughly two-hour coastal trail from Graviers to St François in the island's east. On the way you'll pass Rodrigues' most stunning stretches of sand, including Trou d'Argent, one of the Indian Ocean's prettiest cove beaches, almost completely enclosed by low cliffs and the supposed location of a pirate's hidden booty.

If you're relying on public transport, we recommend beginning in Graviers – buses run to Graviers in the morning but are extremely scarce in the afternoon, when you're likely to have far better luck in St François.

Rodrigues' signature dive, La Passe St François is a 1km-long channel teeming with tuna, unicorn fish, groupers, turtles, rays, and jacks (of the Caranx ignobilis variety) the size of small cars.

Laval and Françoise Baptiste's inviting seaside retreat has sun-drenched rooms in charming case-style abodes, all with wonderfully unobstructed sea views. Up the hill guests will find an amoeba-shaped pool and a breezy dining room set on a sweeping veranda. There's a real warmth to the welcome here, the food is outstanding and the whole place has a wonderfully remote feel.