Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters


Directly south of Naha in Kaigungo-kōen is the Former Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters, where 4000 men committed suicide or were killed as the Battle of Okinawa drew to its bloody conclusion. Only 250m of the tunnels are open, but you can wander through the maze of corridors, see the commander's final words on the wall of his room, and inspect the holes and scars in other walls from the grenade blasts that killed many of the men.

To reach the site, take bus 55 or 98 from Naha Bus Terminal to the Uebaru Danchi-mae stop (¥220, 10 minutes, several hourly). From there it's a five-minute walk – follow the English signs (the entrance is near the top of the hill).

Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Okinawa-hontō attractions

1. Tsuboya Pottery Street

2.06 MILES

One of the best parts of Naha is this neighbourhood, a centre of ceramic production from 1682, when Ryūkyū kilns were consolidated here by royal decree…

2. Daichi Makishi Kōsetsu Ichiba

2.08 MILES

In Naha, a great place to sample everyday Okinawan eats is at one of the 2nd-floor eateries in this covered food market just off Ichibahon-dōri, about…

3. Tsuboya Pottery Museum

2.09 MILES

The excellent Tsuboya Pottery Museum houses some fine examples of traditional Okinawan pottery. Here you can also inspect potters' wheels and arayachi …

4. Fukushū-en

2.18 MILES

Garden fans should take a stroll through peaceful, Chinese-style Fukushū-en. All materials were brought from Fuzhou, Naha's sister city in China,…

6. Shikina-en


Around 4km east of the city centre is a Chinese-style garden containing stone bridges, a viewing pavilion and a villa that belonged to the Ryūkyū royal…

8. Shuri-jō

3.41 MILES

This reconstructed castle was originally built in the 14th century and served as the administrative centre and royal residence of the Ryūkyū kingdom until…