Kansai
Kansai (関西) is the heart of Japan, where much of modern-day Japanese culture originated. Its highlights read like a greatest-hits list. Looking for a vibrant dining and drinking scene and the vivid color that Japanese cities are famous for? Head to Osaka. Want to get out into remote mountains and hike for days? Follow the ancient trails of the Kumano Kodō. Famous works of art? See the Buddhist sculptures in Nara. Onsen? There's a whole town for that in Kinosaki. Castles? Check. There's enough to fill a whole itinerary here, and it's all easy to access by public transport. Kansai is a great place to explore if this is your first time in Japan, and it's also a good choice if you're a repeat visitor: there's much to discover beyond the highlights, including fascinating temples, shrines and archaeological sites that resonate through the ages.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Kansai.
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Oku-no-in
Oku-no-in, whose name means 'inner sanctuary', is perhaps the most intensely spiritual place in Japan. At its farthest reaches is the Gobyō, the crypt that Shingon Buddhism founder Kōbō Daishi entered to began his eternal meditation. Spread out before it are some 200,000 tombs, creating Japan's largest cemetery, built during various historical eras by people, prominent and otherwise, who wanted their remains (or at least a lock of hair) interred close to the legendary monk. Enter the grounds at Ichi-no-hashi, the bridge that marks the entrance to the cemetery, from where it's a 2km walk to the Gobyō. The grounds are thickly forested, sheltering countless five-tiered stupas, many of them worn with age and partly reclaimed by moss. It's a moody place: streaks of sunlight through the trees create enchanting contrast, though so does early-morning mist and, if you can brave the winter cold, blankets of snow. Gobyō-bashi is the final bridge before the Gobyō. It crosses the Tama-gawa, which runs down from Yōryū-san, the mountain behind the crypt. At this point it's customary to bow, and from here on photographs are prohibited. To the right are the Mizumuke Jizō, bronze effigies that visitors ladle water over as a way of praying for the souls of the departed. Just past Gobyō-bashi is a wooden building the size of a large phone booth, which contains the Miroku-ishi, a stone said to weigh as much as your sins. Reach through the hole and try to lift it onto the shelf. (Don't feel bad if your sins are too much to handle: most people can't manage the feat.) Soon you'll encounter the beguiling Tōrō-dō, a large hall full of lanterns, which cover the walls and ceiling. Two of the large ones, in the back of the hall, are said to have been lit uninterruptedly for more than 900 years. Other lanterns have been donated by dignitaries, including emperors and prime ministers. It's here that monks continue to offer food daily to Kōbō Daishi. Behind the Tōrō-dō is the wooden, thatched-roof gate – humble by contrast – that marks the entry to Gobyō, Kōbō Daishi's mausoleum. This is as far as anyone can go. Pilgrims in a constant stream pause here to light incense and candles and chant sutras. Oku-no-in is easily reached on foot from the town centre in 10 or 15 minutes, or you can take a bus east to the Ichi-no-hashi-guchi bus stop. On return, you can take a shorter walk down, along the Naka-no-hashi route, which passes more modern tombs and leads you to the Oku-no-in-mae bus stop, where you can catch a bus back to town (or walk it in about 30 minutes).
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Tōdai-ji
Nara's star attraction is its Daibutsu (Great Buddha), one of the largest bronze statues in the world. It was unveiled in 752, upon the completion of the Daibutsu-den (大仏殿, Great Buddha Hall), built to house it. Both have been damaged over the years; the present statue was recast in the Edo period. The Daibutsu-den is the largest wooden building in the world; incredibly, the present structure, rebuilt in 1709, is a mere two-thirds of the size of the original. The Daibutsu stands just over 16m high and consists of 437 tonnes of bronze and 130kg of gold. It is an image of Dainichi Nyorai (also known as Vairocana Buddha), the cosmic Buddha believed to give rise to all worlds and their respective Buddhas. Historians believe that Emperor Shōmu ordered the building of the Buddha as a charm against smallpox, which ravaged Japan in preceding years. Over the centuries the statue took quite a beating from earthquakes and fires, losing its head a couple of times (note the slight difference in colour between the head and the body). As you circle the statue towards the back, you'll see a wooden column with a hole through its base. Popular belief maintains that those who can squeeze through the hole, which is exactly the same size as one of the Great Buddha's nostrils, are assured of enlightenment. There's usually a line of children waiting to give it a try and parents standing ready to snap their picture. A hint for bigger 'kids': try going through with one or both arms above your head – someone on either end to push and pull helps, too. Except for the Daibutsu-den, most of Tōdai-ji's grounds can be visited free. Don't miss the Nandai-mon.
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Himeji-jō
Himeji-jō is Japan's most magnificent castle, built in 1580 by general Toyotomi Hideyoshi and one of only a few original castles from that era (most are modern concrete reconstructions). Its white-plaster facade (and its elegant presence) earned it the nickname Shirasagi-jō (White Egret Castle). There's a five-storey main keep and three smaller keeps, all surrounded by moats and defensive walls. It takes about 1½ hours to follow the arrow-marked route around the castle. Last entry is an hour before closing. The castle is often crowded – it's a popular destination for tour groups – in which case you might have to wait a little before entering some areas; if you're coming on a weekend especially, allow extra time. While following the route through the keeps you'll get a good lesson in medieval defensive strategies, like the ishiotoshi – narrow openings that allowed defenders to pour boiling water or oil onto anyone trying to scale the walls after making it past the other defences. There are lovely city views from the top floor of the main keep. (You can also get close enough to the castle to appreciate the building, and get a good photo, before you reach the ticket gates.) If Himeji-jō looks too good to be that old, it's because it underwent an extensive five-year renovation prior to reopening in 2014. And if it looks familiar, it's because it often appears in films, such as Kurosawa Akira's Seven Samurai (1954) and Ran (1985).
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Hōryū-ji
Hōryū-ji was founded in 607 by Prince Shōtoku, considered by many to be the patron saint of Japanese Buddhism. It's renowned not only as one of the oldest temples in Japan but also as a repository for some of the country’s rarest and most-outstanding examples of early Buddhist sculpture. There's an entire gallery of Hōryū-ji treasures at the Tokyo National Museum. Some of the temple’s buildings are considered to be the world's oldest existing wooden structures. The temple is divided into two parts: Sai-in (West Temple) and Tō-in (East Temple); pick up a detailed map and guidebook in English. The main approach proceeds from the south along a tree-lined avenue and through the Nandai-mon and Chū-mon gates before entering the Sai-in precinct. As you enter, you'll see the Kondō (Main Hall) on your right (look up to see the fantastic carvings of mythical beasts on the eaves) and a pagoda on your left; both are considered the oldest of their kind, though they have been repaired over the years. The Kondō houses several treasures, including the gilt-bronze triad of the Buddha Sakyamuni with two attendant bodhisattvas, created in 623 by one of the leading sculptors of the day; the Buddha's serene, enigmatic smile is captivating. There are many more works of art inside the Daihōzō-in (Great Treasure Hall). Continue east through the Tōdai-mon to Tō-in. Here the Yumedono (Hall of Dreams), built in 739 as a place to pray for the repose of Prince Shōtoku's soul, houses another famous work of art: the Guze Kannon, a 7th-century sculpture of the bodhisattva Kannon (Buddhist goddess of mercy) carved from a single piece of camphor wood and sheathed in gold leaf. The quickest way to get to Hōryū-ji is by train: take a JR Yamatoji-line train from JR Nara Station to Hōryū-ji Station (¥220, 11 minutes), then pick up bus 72 (¥180, eight minutes, every 20 minutes 9am to 4.45pm) to Hōryū-ji Sandō, right at the temple entrance. Bus 98 departs from stop 8 at Nara Kintetsu Station and stop 6 at JR Nara Station for Hōryū-ji-mae (¥760, 65 minutes, hourly 9am to 4pm). Returning to Nara, take bus 97 from platform 2 at the Hōryū-ji-mae bus stop. To save money, purchase a Nara Park Nishinokyō Hōryū-ji one-day bus pass (¥1000), which also includes bus travel to Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji and around Nara.
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Osaka-jō
After unifying Japan in the late 16th century, General Toyotomi Hideyoshi built this castle (1583) as a display of power, using, it's said, the labour of 100,000 workers. Although the present structure is a 1931 concrete reconstruction (refurbished in 1997), it's nonetheless quite a sight, looming dramatically over the surrounding park and moat. Inside is an excellent collection of art, armour, and day-to-day implements related to the castle, Hideyoshi and Osaka. An 8th-floor observation deck has 360-degree views. Hideyoshi's original granite structure was said to be impregnable, yet it was destroyed in 1614 by the armies of Tokugawa Ieyasu (the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate). Ieyasu had the castle rebuilt – using the latest advancements to create terrifically imposing walls of enormous stones. The largest stones are estimated to weigh over a 100 tonnes; some are engraved with the crests of feudal lords. Thirteen structures, including several turrets, remain from this 17th-century reconstruction. Osaka citizens raised money themselves to rebuild the main keep; in 1931 the new tower was revealed, with glittering gold-leaf tigers stalking the eaves. At night the castle is lit with floodlights (and looks like a ghostly structure hovering above ground). Visit the lawns on a warm weekend and you might catch local musicians staging casual shows. The castle and park are at their colourful best (and most crowded) in the cherry-blossom and autumn-foliage seasons.
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Sanzen-in
Famed for its autumn foliage, hydrangea garden and stunning Buddha statues, this temple is deservedly popular with foreign and domestic tourists alike. The temple’s garden, Yūsei-en, is one of the most photographed sights in Japan, and rightly so. Take some time to sit on the steps of the Shin-den hall and admire the beauty of the Yūsei-en. Then head off to see Ōjō-gokuraku-in (Temple of Rebirth in Paradise), the hall in which stands the impressive Amitabha trinity, a large Amida image flanked by attendants Kannon (goddess of mercy) and Seishi (god of wisdom). After this, walk up to the garden at the back of the temple where, in late spring and summer, you can wander among hectares of blooming hydrangeas. Sanzen-in was founded in 784 by the priest Saichō and belongs to the Tendai school. Saichō, considered one of the great patriarchs of Buddhism in Japan, also founded Enryaku-ji. If you’re keen for a short hike after leaving the temple, continue up the hill to see the rather oddly named Soundless Waterfall (Oto-nashi-no-taki; 音無の滝). Though, in fact, it sounds like any other waterfall, its resonance is believed to have inspired Shōmyō Buddhist chanting. The approach to Sanzen-in is opposite the bus stop; there is no English sign but you can usually just follow the Japanese tourists. The temple is located about 600m up this walk on your left as you crest the hill.
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Dōtombori
Highly photogenic Dōtombori is the city's liveliest night spot and the centre of the southern part of town. Its name comes from the 400-year-old canal, Dōtombori-gawa, now lined with pedestrian walkways and with a riot of illuminated billboards glittering off its waters. Don't miss the famous Glico running man sign. South of the canal is a pedestrianised street that has dozens of restaurants vying for attention with the flashiest of signage. For the best views, head to Ebisu-bashi, the bridge at the western end of the strip.
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Nachi-no-taki
At 133m, Nachi-no-taki is Japan's highest waterfall. It's the first of many still deeper in the Nachi mountains and has long been used in ascetic training. For a close-up look at the falls, hike the 135 steps to a small shrine, Hirō-jinja, which has a viewing platform (it's also the spot from which to worship the falls). Drinking water from the dragon's mouth at the font (use your hands as a bowl) is believed to enhance longevity.
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Nara National Museum
This world-class museum of Buddhist art is divided into two sections. Built in 1894 and strikingly renovated in 2016, the Nara Buddhist Sculpture Hall & Ritual Bronzes Gallery displays a rotating selection of about 100 butsu-zō (statues of Buddhas and bodhisattvas) at any one time, about half of which are National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties. Chinese bronzes in the ritual bronzes gallery date as far back as the 15th century BC. Each image has detailed English explanations. The newer east and west wings, a short walk away, contain the permanent collections (sculptures, paintings and calligraphy) and also host special exhibitions. Particularly noteworthy is the fall special exhibition featuring the artefacts from Shōsō-in Hall, which holds the treasures of Tōdai-ji. The exhibits include priceless items from the cultures along the Silk Road. This exhibit (admission ¥1100) is well worth it, but be prepared for crowds. It's free to enter the underground passageway connecting the wings, where wall displays explain in detail the history, the making process and the symbolism of different styles of Buddhist sculpture – a good primer for appreciating Nara's sights.
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