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Street food, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon) is where it’s at. Vietnam’s most populous city beckons with its century-old heritage buildings and glitzy glass skyscrapers, amazing museums, and an incredible dining scene ranging from innovative contemporary Vietnamese cuisine to entire lanes lined with street-food stalls. Join the crowds and explore this incredible city.

Ho Chi Minh City

Day 1

The French Connection

Visit two of Ho Chi Minh City's most beautiful French-era heritage buildings followed by a leisurely afternoon of retail therapy in an atmospheric vintage apartment building-turned-hipster-boutiques. End the day with a glass or two of Vietnam-inspired craft beer.

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  • Built between 1877 and 1883 at a cost of over 2.5 million francs, the Notre Dame Cathedral enlivens the heart of Ho Chi Minh City’s government quarter. Its twin bell towers are topped with spires and crosses that reach 60m and its red-brick, neo-Romanesque façade is a favorite wedding photography background. You’ll have to admire the exterior of this Catholic cathedral, loosely modeled after the Paris version of the same name, as it has been under renovation since 2017 with completion dates pushed back until 2027. The only way to admire its stained-glass windows and interior walls is to attend mass. The lovely park across the street is a popular hangout spot for students.

    • 2 Cong Xa Paris

    The city’s landmark and fully functional French-era post office is a period classic, designed by Marie-Alfred Foulhoux (though often miscredited to Gustave Eiffel) and built between 1886 and 1891. The spacious barrel-vaulted hall and copious green-painted wrought iron are reminiscent of a train station. Elements inside and out are themed after scientific advancements with exterior plaques honoring personalities like Samuel Morse and Benjamin Franklin while the interior features fascinating historical maps of South Vietnam, Saigon and Cholon and a large mosaic of Ho Chi Minh. As you enter, remember to look down and admire the magnificent vintage tiled floors.

Day 2

Vietnam-US Relations

Understand more of Vietnam's recent history with a sobering visit to the War Remnants Museum and Reunification Palace for insight into Vietnam of the late 20th century.

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    • 28 Ð Vo Van Tan

    To understand the US invasion of Vietnam, and contextualize its devastating impact on the country's civilians, this remarkable and deeply moving museum is an essential visit. Many of the atrocities documented here are already well publicized, but it's rare to visit a museum such as this, where the victims of US military action are given the space to tell their side of the story. While most of the displays are written from a Vietnamese perspective, much of the disturbing photography of war atrocities come from US sources, including the images of the My Lai massacre, where more than 500 unarmed South Vietnamese civilians were brutally killed by US soldiers.

    Even travelers with little interest in the war should not leave the city without visiting. Its absorbing exhibits give visitors an invaluable insight into a defining chapter in the country’s history – and a deeper understanding of present-day Vietnam as a result. Allow at least a couple of hours for your visit. The museum, which was formerly known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, primarily deals with the American War, but the French-colonial period and conflicts with China are also documented. US armored vehicles, artillery pieces, bombs and infantry weapons are on display outside. One corner of the grounds is devoted to the notorious French and South Vietnamese prisons on Phu Quoc and Con Son islands. Artifacts include that most iconic of French appliances, the guillotine, and the notoriously inhumane ‘tiger cages’ used to house war prisoners. The ground floor of the museum is devoted to a collection of posters and photographs showing support for the antiwar movement internationally. This somewhat upbeat display provides a counterbalance to the horrors upstairs. Some of the images on show are very upsetting, in particular photos of widespread destruction from US napalm bombs and the horrific toxic effects of Agent Orange on Vietnamese citizens.

    Many visitors may need to take a break between exhibits. The museum also offers the rare chance to see some of the experimental weapons used in the war, which were at one time military secrets, such as the flechette, an artillery shell filled with thousands of tiny darts. Upstairs, look out for the Requiem Exhibition. Compiled by legendary war photographer Tim Page, this striking collection documents the work of photographers killed during the course of the conflict, on both sides, and includes works by Larry Burrows and Robert Capa.

    • 73 Ð Mai Thi Luu

    Built in 1909 in honor of the supreme Taoist god (the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang), this is one of the most atmospheric temples in Ho Chi Minh City. Its roof is encrusted with elaborate tile work, and the temple’s statues, depicting characters from both Buddhist and Taoist lore, are made from reinforced papier-mâché.

    Inside the main building are two especially fierce and menacing Taoist figures. On the right (as you face the altar) is a 4m-high statue of the general who defeated the Green Dragon (depicted underfoot). On the left is the general who defeated the White Tiger, which is also being stepped on. Worshippers mass before the ineffable Jade Emperor who presides over the main sanctuary. Other shrines of note include the one to Than Hoang, the Chief of Hell. Carved panels depict various punishments awaiting sinners in the afterlife. The shrine dedicated to the goddess Kim Hue Nuong Nuong, surrounded by midwives and children, is especially popular with women who want to conceive. Outside, a small pond seethes with turtles, some of which have shells marked with auspicious inscriptions. 

    • Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

    Surrounded by royal palm trees, the dissonant 1960s architecture of this landmark government building (also known as the Independence Palace) and the eerie ambiance of its deserted halls make it an intriguing spectacle. The first Communist tanks to arrive in Saigon rumbled here on 30 April 1975 and it’s as if time has stood still since. The building is deeply associated with the fall of the city in 1975, yet it’s the kitsch detailing and period motifs that steal the show.

    Designed by Paris-trained Vietnamese architect Ngo Viet Thu, the airy and open floor plan is an outstanding example of 1960s architecture. The ground floor is arranged with meeting rooms, while upstairs is a grand set of reception rooms, used for welcoming foreign and national dignitaries. In the back of the structure are the president’s living quarters; check out the model boats, horse tails and severed elephants’ feet. The 2nd floor contributes a shagadelic card-playing room, complete with a barrel-shaped bar, hubcap light fixtures and three-legged chairs set around a flared-legged card table. There’s also a cinema and a rooftop nightclub with the requisite helipad. However, perhaps most fascinating of all is the basement with its telecommunications center, war room and warren of tunnels, where hulking old fans chop the air and ancient radio transmitters sit impassively.

    The Reunification Palace is open to visitors as long as official receptions or meetings aren’t taking place and there are English- and French-speaking guides. 

    • 65 Ð Ly Tu Trong

    A grand neoclassical structure built in 1885 and once known as Gia Long Palace, HCMC’s city museum tells the story of the city through archaeological artifacts, ceramics and old city maps. The struggle for independence is extensively covered, with most of the upper floor devoted to it. However, there are also fascinating exhibits on Vietnamese currency, Saigonese culture including wedding customs, betel nut chewing, folk music and religious beliefs. In the gardens are various pieces of military hardware, including the American-built F-5E jet used by a renegade South Vietnamese pilot to bomb the Presidential Palace (now Reunification Palace) on 8 April 1975.

Day 3

Saigon's Chinatown

Step back in time to the largest Chinatown in the world with its atmospheric temples and colorful markets. In the afternoon, hang out at Saigon's most happening event venue, home to the city's tallest climbing wall.

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    • 118 Ð Lac Long Quan

    Believed to be the oldest temple in HCMC (1744), Giac Lam is a fantastically atmospheric place set in peaceful, garden-like grounds. The Chinese characters that constitute the temple's name mean 'Feel the Woods Temple' and the looming Bodhi tree (a native fig tree, sacred to Buddhists) in the front garden was the gift of a Sri Lankan monk in 1953. Prayers are held daily from 4 am to 5 am, 11 am to noon, 4 pm to 5 pm and 7 pm to 9 pm. Next to the tree stands a gleaming white statue of compassionate Quan The Am Bo Tat (also known as the Goddess of Mercy) on a lotus blossom, a symbol of purity.

    As at many Vietnamese Buddhist temples, aspects of both Taoism and Confucianism can be found here. For the sick and elderly, the pagoda is a minor pilgrimage sight, as it contains a bronze bell that, when rung, is believed to answer the prayers posted by petitioners. The main sanctuary lies in the next room, filled with countless gilded figures. On the dais in the center of the back row sits the A Di Da Buddha, easily spotted by his colorful halo. The fat laughing fellow, seated with five children climbing all over him, is Ameda, the Buddha of Enlightenment, Compassion and Wisdom. About 3km from Cholon, Giac Lam Pagoda is best reached by taxi or xe om (motorbike taxi). 

  • Delightfully fronted by greenery and opening to an interior blaze of red, gold, green and yellow, this is one of the most beautifully ornamented temples in town, dating from 1902. Founded to worship the Chinese general Quan Cong, look for a life-sized figure of his sacred horse to the left of the entrance. Also of special interest are the elaborate brass ritual ornaments and weapons, and the fine woodcarvings on the altars, walls, columns, hanging lanterns and incense coils. From the exterior, look out for the ceramic scenes, each containing innumerable small figurines, that decorate the roof.

    • 57a ÐL Thap Muoi

    The original Binh Tay Market was built by the French at a separate location in the 1880s but the current market was opened in 1928, funded by Guangdong-born businessman and philanthropist Quach Dam. Constructed around a central courtyard with gardens, Cholon’s main market primarily does wholesale business but it’s worth a visit to see its Chinese architectural elements like the two dragons gazing at the moon just above the main entrance and the bronze lions and dragons around its central fountain. Very little English is spoken but expect a friendly welcome if you have a coffee or a bowl of noodles with the market’s food vendors near the rear entrance on the ground floor.

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