Piazza dei Martiri


If Chiaia is Naples' drawing room, then Piazza dei Martiri is its chaise longue. The square's centrepiece is Enrico Alvino's 19th-century monument to Neapolitan martyrs, with four lions representing the anti-Bourbon uprisings of 1799, 1820, 1848 and 1860. At No 30 is Palazzo Calabritto, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, best known for creating Caserta's epic Palazzo Reale.

Flanking the piazza itself is book-and-music store La Feltrinelli, where locals head to browse, cruise and guzzle espresso in the in-store basement cafe.

Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

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