Viterbo

The largest town in northern Lazio, Viterbo is a much-overlooked gem with a charming medieval centro storico and a laid-back, provincial vibe.

Founded by the Etruscans and later taken over by the Romans, it developed into an important medieval centre, and in the 13th century was briefly the seat of the papacy. It was heavily bombed in WWII, but much of its historic core survived and this attractive tangle of grey-stone buildings is today in remarkably good shape. This, together with its good bus connections, makes it an attractive base for exploring Lazio's far-flung northern reaches.