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The Inishowen Peninsula reaches just far enough into the Atlantic to grab the title of northernmost point on the island of Ireland: Malin Head. It is remote, rugged, desolate and sparsely populated, making it a special and peaceful sort of place. Ancient sites and ruined castles abound, as do traditional thatched cottages that haven't yet been turned into holiday homes.
Surrounded by vast sea loughs and open ocean, Inishowen (meaning 'Island of Eoghain', the chieftain who also gave his name to County Tyrone) attracts a lot of birdlife. The variety is tremendous, with well over 200 resident and migrant species, including well-travelled avian visitors from Iceland, Greenland and North America. Irregular Atlantic winds mean rare and exotic species also blow in from time to time.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Inishowen Peninsula.
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On the northernmost tip of Malin Head, called Banba's Crown, stands a cumbersome 1805 clifftop tower that was built by the British admiralty and later used as a Lloyds signal station. Around it are concrete huts that were used by the Irish army in WWII as lookout posts. To the west from the fort-side car park, a path leads 700m to Hell's Hole, a chasm where the incoming waters crash against the rock forms.
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Set in a reconstructed village of thatched cottages, this open-air museum is packed with interesting tidbits about the tragic Famine of the mid-19th century, and insightful comparisons with famine-stricken countries today. It's worth taking one of the excellent free guided tours, led by knowledgeable local guides who provide fascinating background on aspects of local culture, including Donegal's poteen -brewing history and the tradition of funeral wakes. It's about 5km north of Ballyliffin, on Doagh Island (now part of the mainland).
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The intricate 7th-century Donagh Cross (also called St Patrick's Cross) stands under a shelter by an Anglican church at the west end of town. It's carved with a short-bodied, big-eyed figure of Jesus, smiling impishly. Flanking the cross are two small pillars, one showing a man, possibly Goliath, with a sword and shield, and the other, David and his harp.
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This Blue Flag beach is great for swimming and windsurfing. You can wander its gorgeous length and get lost in the grassy sand dunes, and there's a fun playground for kids too. Lifeguards are on duty from June to September. There's an annual New Year's Day charity swim in the freezing water, which is a hoot.
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Fort Dunree is the best preserved and most dramatic of six forts built by the British on Lough Swilly following the 1798 uprising of the United Irishmen (which was supported by France), when fears of a French invasion were at fever pitch. The original fort, built in 1813, houses a military museum, while the surrounding headland is littered with WWI and WWII remains you can explore. There are several good waymarked walks. The Saldanha Suite houses a wildlife discovery room.
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An eccentric collection of artefacts awaits at this museum in a former coastguard station on a grassy verge right by the waterfront. The most fascinating exhibits are from the sunken wrecks of Lough Foyle, the displays exploring the demise of the Spanish Armada and the examples of Drontheim fishing boats, once widely used along Ireland's north coast. There's also an astronomy show in the full-dome digital theatre at the Planetarium.
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The gable ends and huge windows of the roofless shell of 17th-century Clonca Church frame views of the Donegal mountains. Inside there is an intricately carved tombstone sporting a sword and hurling-stick motif. Outside, the remains of the cross show the miracle of the loaves and fishes on the eastern face. Heading from Culdaff towards Moville on the R238, turn east after 1.2km at Bocan Church. The Clonca Church and cross are 1.7km to the north behind some farm buildings.
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Once known as Northburg Castle and then known as Greencastle, apparently from the stone it was constructed from (but today it very well describes the copious ivy that covers its walls), this imposing but badly crumbling edifice is east of town. The views out over to the beach at Magilligan Point in Londonderry on the far side of Lough Foyle are supreme.
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At the side of O'Doherty's Keep is the manor-like Buncrana Castle, built in 1718 by John Vaughan, who also constructed the bridge. Wolfe Tone was imprisoned here following the unsuccessful French invasion in 1798. It's closed to the public.