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County Donegal
County Donegal is the wild child of Ireland and home to some of its most ravishingly sublime scenery and beautiful beaches. This is a county of extremes: at times desolate and battered by brutal weather, yet also a land of unspoilt splendour where stark peaks and sweeping beaches bask in glorious sunshine, and port-side restaurants serve majestic food.
Donegal's rugged interior, with its remote mountain passes and shimmering lakes, is only marginally outdone by the long and labyrinthine coastline with windswept peninsulas and isolated pubs. In recent years the local food scene has been flourishing, and delicious fresh seafood is never far away. Proudly independent, one-third of Donegal is official Gaeltacht territory, with Irish the lingua franca.
After its northern start in Derry, the Wild Atlantic Way really begins to strut its stuff here as the county's untamed craggy coastline truly puts the wild into the way.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout County Donegal.
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Sliabh Liag
The Cliffs of Moher get more publicity, but the cliffs of Sliabh Liag are higher. In fact, these spectacular sea cliffs are among the highest in Europe, plunging some 600m to the ceaselessly churning sea. From Teelin, a road through the stark landscape leads to the lower car park (with hiking signs) beside a gate in the road; drive another 1.5km to the upper car park (often full in summer) right beside the viewpoint (close the gate though). From the upper car park, a rough footpath leads up and along the top of the near-vertical cliffs to the aptly named One Man's Pass, a narrow ridge that reaches the summit of Sliabh Liag (595m, 10km round-trip). Be aware that mist and rain can roll in unexpectedly and rapidly, making conditions slippery and treacherous. Be especially careful near the edge of the cliffs. Walking just the first 500m will give you spectacular views. It's also possible to hike to the summit of Sliabh Liag from Carrick via the Pilgrim Path (signposted along the minor road on the right before the Sliabh Liag cliffs road), returning via One Man's Pass and the viewpoint road (12km, allow four to six hours). The cliffs are particularly scenic at sunset when the waves crash dramatically far below and the ocean reflects the last rays of the day. Looking down, you'll see two rocks nicknamed the 'giant's desk and chair' for reasons that are immediately obvious.
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Maghera Strand
This astonishing beach is a dream come true, especially if you are rewarded with a gorgeous sunset. Get here during lowish tide to explore the caves in the south end, where some spectacular geology awaits. If you get clear skies, the sun dipping into the Atlantic is one of Ireland's most treasured and priceless experiences. During Cromwell's 17th-century destruction, 100 villagers sought refuge here but all except one were discovered and massacred. There's a car park outside a farm just before the dunes that lead to the beach (signed Maghera Caves; €3 per car). You'll need to walk through a metal gate – remember to shut it after you.
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Glengesh Pass
On a narrow road from Glencolumbcille to Ardara, past remote mountain bogland, magnificent Glengesh Pass (Glean Géis; meaning 'Glen of the Swans'), scoured out aeons ago by implacably vast glacial forces, is approached down several switchbacks that lead towards thatched cottages and a swath of pastoral beauty. There are spots and visitor viewpoints where you can pull over and take in the whole epic scenario before you.
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Banba's Crown
On the northernmost tip of Malin Head, called Banba's Crown, stands a cumbersome 1805 clifftop tower that was built by the British admiralty and later used as a Lloyds signal station. Around it are concrete huts that were used by the Irish army in WWII as lookout posts. To the west from the fort-side car park, a path leads 700m to Hell's Hole, a chasm where the incoming waters crash against the rock forms. The view to the west takes in, from left to right, the Inishowen Hills, Dunaff Head, low-lying Fanad Head with its lighthouse, the twin 'horns' of Horn Head and the twin bumps of Tory Island; in the far distance, to the left of Fanad lighthouse, are Muckish and Errigal Mountains. To the east lie raised beach terraces, and offshore you can see the lighthouse on the remote island of Inishtrahull. A viewing area has coin-operated telescopes. On a few nights a year you can even see the Northern Lights. Watch for the truck-based Caffe Banba that is sometimes in the car park selling superb coffees and baked goods. The car park itself can get quickly crowded with cars during the busy season.
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Horn Head
The towering headland of Horn Head has some of the Wild Atlantic Way's most spectacular scenery, with dramatic quartzite cliffs, topped with bog and heather, rearing over 180m high. The narrow road from Dunfanaghy (4km) ends at a small parking area where you can walk 150m to a WWII lookout point or 1.5km to Horn Head proper. On a fine day you'll encounter tremendous views of Tory, Inishbofin, Inishdooey and tiny Inishbeg Islands to the west; Sheep Haven Bay and the Rosguill Peninsula to the east; Malin Head to the northeast; and the coast of Scotland beyond.
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Ballymastocker Beach
Once named the second-most beautiful beach in the world by British newspaper the Observer, this tawny-coloured Blue Flag beach is a supremely fine place to while away the hours. It is indeed stunning as you drive round the high headland on the R268 and it rears into view, but put the brakes on – there's a viewpoint you can pull into to take mesmerising shots.
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Iniskeel Island
You can walk out to this tiny island at low tide from the sandy tip of the Blue Flag beach at Narin. St Connell, a cousin of St Colmcille (Columba), founded a monastery here in the 6th century and the island is studded with early-medieval Christian remains, including two ruined churches and some decorated grave slabs.
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Culdaff Beach
This Blue Flag beach is great for swimming and windsurfing. You can wander its gorgeous length and get lost in the grassy sand dunes, and there's a fun playground for kids too. Lifeguards are on duty from June to September. There's an annual New Year's Day charity swim in the freezing water, which is a hoot.
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Malinbeg Beach
At Malinbeg you'll find this stunning, sheltered bay bitten out of low cliffs, with 60 steps descending to a gorgeous little sandy beach. It's 6km past the folk village. You may find it deserted.