County Donegal

The Cliffs of Moher get more publicity, but the cliffs of Sliabh Liag are higher (and free). In fact, these spectacular sea cliffs are among the highest in Europe, plunging some 600m to the ceaselessly churning sea.

From Teelin, a road through the stark landscape leads to the lower car park (with hiking signs) beside a gate in the road; drive another 1.5km to the upper car park (often full in summer) right beside the viewpoint (close the gate though).

This castle was modelled on Scotland's Balmoral Castle. Henry McIlhenny made it a characterful home with liberal reminders of his passion for deer-stalking. In fact, few rooms lack a representation – or the taxidermied remains – of a stag.

Access is by guided tour only. Cars are not allowed beyond the Glenveagh Visitor Centre; you can walk or cycle the lovely lakeside 3.6km route to the castle, or take the shuttle bus (every 15 minutes).

Pretty Dunfanaghy is clustered along the southern shore of a sandy inlet and lies ideally at the centre of one of the most varied and attractive parts of Donegal. Moors and meadows, sea cliffs and sandy beaches, forest and lake lie scattered below the humpbacked hill of Muckish, all waiting to be explored on foot or by bike.

On a narrow road from Glencolumbcille to Ardara, past remote mountain bogland, magnificent Glengesh Pass (Glean Géis; meaning 'Glen of the Swans'), scoured out aeons ago by implacably vast glacial forces, is approached down several switchbacks that lead towards thatched cottages and a swath of pastoral beauty. There are spots and visitor viewpoints where you can pull over and take in the whole epic scenario before you.

With a name like this – misnomer that it is – how can you resist its allure? Follow a rough walking path into the rocky fastness of the glen (4km round-trip) and watch out for the green lady – the resident ghost. Some 2km east of the Dunlewey Centre turnoff on the R251, look for a minor road down through the hamlet of Dunlewey, past the magnificently ruined Dunlewey Church, to roadside parking at a hairpin bend where you'll find the walking path.

Rossnowlagh's spectacular 3km-long Blue Flag beach is a broad, sandy stretch of heaven that attracts families, surfers, kitesurfers and walkers throughout the year. The gentle rollers are great for learning to surf or honing your skills. You can easily lose a few hours picnicking and lounging in the dunes.

Despite the small winter population, in summer the holiday homes fill up and numbers swell.

The rolling swells never stop coming across the sea at Malin Head, the island's northern extreme. It's a name familiar to sailors and meteorological buffs, as Malin Head is one of the weather stations mentioned in BBC Radio's daily shipping forecast. You can almost imagine you can see Iceland (you can't) as you peer out through sometimes perfectly crystal blue but ever-blustery skies, which can change from sun to squall at the drop of a sou'wester. The rolling grasslands are dotted with suitably thick-coated donkeys, cows and well-wrapped-up hikers.

On the northernmost tip of Malin Head is Banba's Crown.

The small but very pretty village of Malin, on Trawbreaga Bay, 14km southeast of Malin Head, has a charmingly sedate movie-set quality, arranged around a neat, triangular village green.

Once you've sampled Glencolumbcille's tiny village, scalloped beaches, stunning walks and fine little folk museum, the chances are you'll disagree with locals who claim there's little to do here.

Approaching Glencolumbcille (Gleann Cholm Cille) via the Glengesh Pass does, however, reinforce just how isolated this starkly beautiful coastal haven is. You drive past miles and miles of hills and bogs before the ocean appears, followed by a narrow, green valley and the small Gaeltacht village within it.

This astonishing beach is a dream come true, especially if you are rewarded with a gorgeous sunset. Get here during lowish tide to explore the caves in the south end, where some spectacular geology awaits. If you get clear skies, the sun dipping into the Atlantic is one of Ireland's most treasured and priceless experiences. During Cromwell's 17th-century destruction, 100 villagers sought refuge here but all except one were discovered and massacred.

Ireland's most remote inhabited island, blasted by sea winds and stung by salt spray, the distant crag of Tory Island (Oileán Thóraí) has taken its fair share of batterings. Although it's only 11km north of the mainland, the rough sea has long consolidated the island's staunch independence and strengthened its sense of remoteness.

The island has its own dialect of Irish and even has an elected 'king', who acts as community spokesman and welcomes visitors to the island. Over the decades its inhabitants earned a reputation for distilling and smuggling contraband poitín (a peaty whiskey). However, the island is perhaps best known for its 'naive' (or outsider) artists, many of whom have attracted the attention of international collectors.

The island has just one pebbly beach and two recognisable villages: West Town (An Baile Thiar), home to most of the island's facilities, and East Town (An Baile Thoir).