Once the domain of shack-staying surfers, Nusa Lembongan has hit the big time. Yes, you can still get a simple room with a view of the surf breaks and the gorgeous sunsets but now you can also stay in a boutique hotel and have a fabulous meal.
The new-found wealth is bringing changes, for instance, you'll see boys riding motorcycles 300m to school, temples being expensively renovated, multistorey hotels being built and time being marked by the arrival of tourist boats (which still lack any kind of dock). But even as Nusa Lembongan's popularity grows, it manages to keep a mellow vibe. You can still cock your ear to the crow of a rooster or the fall of a coconut, but you also need to be ready to get stuck in traffic.